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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 



THE GARDEN LIBRARY 



Roses and How to Grow Them 

By Many Experts 

Ferns and How to Grow Them 

By G. A. WooLSON 

Lawns and How to Make Them 

By Leonard Barron 

Daffodils-Narcissus and How to Grow Them 

By A, M. KiRBY 

Water-Lilies and How to Grow Them 

By H. S. Conard and Henri Hus 

The Flower Garden 

By Ida D. Bennett 

The Vegetable Garden 

By Ida D. Bennett 

The Orchard and Fruit Garden 

By E. P. Powell 

House Plants and How to Grow Them 

By Parker T. Barnes 

Success in Market Gardening 

By Herbert Rawson 




m^m^ 




AN IMPORTANT ADJUNCT TO THE MARKET GARDEN 



Success in 
Market Gardening 

A NEW 
VEGETABLE GROWERS' MANUAL 

By 
HERBERT RAWSON 

REVISED AND ENLARGED EDITION 



ILLUSTRATED 



NEW YORK 

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 

1910 



ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, INCLUDING THAT OP TRANSLATION 
INTO FOREIGN LANGUAGES, INCLUDING THE SCANDINAVIAN 

COPYRIGHT, 1892, BY W. W. RAWSON 

COPYRIGHT, I9IO, BY DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 

PUBLISHED, APRIL, I9IO 



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€ CI, A 26 1133 



PREFACE 

The present volume is a revision of the book of 
the same title written by my father, the late W. W. 
Rawson, which ran through several editions. 

In 1907, a year before his death, my father fully 
appreciated the fact that any further edition of 
his work would have to be thoroughly revised in 
many important details, especially with regard to 
varieties of vegetables at present under cultivation. 
With this in mind, he had actually started rewrit- 
ing the book, doing it in a leisurely way as oppor- 
tunity offered. It is a keen regret to me that he 
did not live to complete his labours ; death overtook 
him before he had done much beyond making 
a number of miscellaneous notes and amend- 
ments. 

I have, therefore, undertaken this task of revi- 
sion in a sense of filial duty and regard, allowing 
as much as possible of my father's own manuscript 
to appear in the present edition, which is offered 
to present the most up-to-date methods of com- 

[v] 



CONTENTS 

CHAPTER I 

PAGE 

Inteoductory Remarks. — Scope of the Work .... 3-5 

Location and Soils. — Choice of a Location. — Convenience of 

Slopes. — Character of Soil 6-9 

Land Drainage. — Construction of Drains. — Provision for Outlet. — 

Depths and Intervals. — Benefits 10-18 

Irrigation. — Necessity for Watering. — Sub-irrigation. — Surface 
Waterings. — Sources of Supply. — Storage. — Amount and Fre- 
quency. — Distributing by Hose. — Service of the Pump. — Out- 
fit and Operation. — Estimates of Cost. — Instances of Success. — 
Further Instructions 19-35 

CHAPTER II 

Preparation of the Soil. — First Stages. — How to Plow. — A 

Thorough Tillage 36-42 

Laying out Crops and Rotation. — Systematic Work. — Objects 

of a Rotation 43-47 

Manures and Fertilizers. — Amounts and Methods. — Sources of 
the Supply. — OverhauUng and Distributing on Land. — Pro- 
cesses of Fermentation. — Commercial Fertilizers. — Night Soil. 
— Wood Ashes. — Manuring in the Hill. — Composts. — Liquid 
Manures. — Comparative Values. — Chemical Constituents. — 
Works of Reference 48-63 

Application of Manures. — Rapid-growing Crops. — Fertihzing 

Land under Crop. — Different Methods .... 64-68 

CHAPTER III 

Selection of Seeds. — Growing or Purchasing. — Best is Cheapest. 

—When to Purchase.— Testing for Quality . . . 69-70 

[ix] 



CONTENTS 



ViTALiTT OF Seeds. — How Impaired. — How Preserved. — Contin- 
uance of Vitality. — Growth from Fresh or Older Seeds . 71-73 

Seed-growing. — By Vegetable-growers. — By Seedsmen. — Improv- 
ing the Strain. — Differences in Maturing. — Arlington Seed- 
growing. — Best is Cheapest. — Gathering and Curing . . 74-76 

Sowing the Seed. — In Newly Worked Soil. — ^Depth and Other 

Conditions 77-79 

Cultivation of CRors. — During Growth. — Other Rules and Sug- 
gestions . 80-81 

Construction and Operation of Hot-beds. — Furnishing and 
Regulating the Heat. — Continuous Care Essential. — ^Tem- 
perature and Other Conditions of Success. — Four Crops in a 
Season 82-87 

Gardening in Hot-houses. — Growth of the Practice. — Advan- 
tages Resulting. — Requirements for Heating .... 88-90 

Gathering the Crops. — When to Gather. — Handling and Pack- 



ing 



91-92 



Capital and Labour. — Amounts Required. — Practice and Opin- 
ions. — Rules and Data. — Cost of Sundry Items . . . 92-95 



CHAPTER IV 

Vegetables Raised for Market. — Characteristics of, and Cul- 
tural Directions for, the following kinds: — Artichoke — Jeru- 
salem Artichoke — Asparagus — Dwarf or Bush Beans — 
Pole Beans — Scarlet Runners — Lima Beans — Beets — 
Borecole, or Kale — Broccoli — Brussels Sprouts — Cabbage — 
Carrot — Cauhflower — Celeriac — Celery — Chicory — Chives 96-14 



CHAPTER V 

Vegetables Raised for Market. — Characteristics, etc.. Con- 
tinued. Field Corn — Sweet Corn — Corn Salad — Cress — 
Upland Cress — Cucumber — Dandelion — Egg Plant — En- 
dive — Herbs — Horse Radish — Kohl Rabi — Leek — Lettuce — 
Martynia — Mushrooms — Muskmelons and Cantaloupes — 

Mustard — Okra 145-180 

[X] 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER VI 

PAGE 

Vegeitables Raised for Market. — Characteristics, etc., Con- 
tinued. Onions — Parsley — Parsnips — Peas — Peppers — 
Potatoes — Radishes — Rhubarb — Salsify — Sea Kale — Spinach 

— Squash — Tomato — Turnips — Watermelons — Chinese 

Yam 181-220 

CHAPTER VII 

Implements, Ordinary and Special. — Kemp's Manure Spreader 

— Plows — Useful Styles — Harrows — Rollers — Cultiva- 
tors — Small Tools — Wheel Hoes — Seed-Drills — Com- 
bination Wheel Tools — Tools for Special Uses . . 221-238 

Greenhouses, etc. — Modes of Heating — Use of Electric Light 

— Permanent Outside Beds — Low Cost Forcing House 238-242 
Pumping Outfits. — Different Styles — Various Kinds of Power 243-246 
Insect Pests. — Preventives — Process of Fumigation . . 247-258 
Fungi and Plant Diseases. — Nature and Growth of Fungi — Pre- 
ventives — Process of Spraying 259-263 

In Conclusion. — Practice vs. Theory — Experiments and Results 

— Forcing-House Products — Closing Suggestions . . 264-267 
Index 269 



[xi] 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



An Important Adjunct to the Market Garden Frontispiece '' 



FACING PAGE 



Testing Seeds for Vitality ..... 

Seedlings of Cucumber Pricked Out from the Seed Bed 

Digging Over Hot-bed After Heat is Put in 

Pulling Radishes for Market . 

Crosby Egyptian Beet . 

Rawson's Perfection Cabbage 

Early Jersey Wakefield Cabbage . 

Sea Foam Cauliflower . 

Paris Golden Self-blanching Celery 

Rawson's Hot-house Cucumber 

Marking for Lettuce Plants . 

Lettuce Plants Ready to Set into the House 

Putting in Bottom Heat for a Second Crop of Lettuce 

Taking up Prickers of Lettuce from Seed Beds 

A House of Lettuce One Week Previous to Marketing 

Danvers Yellow Globe Onion, New England Grown 
Strain ........ 

[ xiii ] 



76 

76 

77 

77 

112 

113 

113 

134 

135 

154 

155 

155 

172 

172 

173 

182 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

FACING PAGE 

Digging Parsnips from Pit to Send to Wash-shed 

for Market 183 

Parsnips in Tubs Ready to Wash .... 183 

Rawson's Excelsior Pea . . . . . 210 

Comet Tomato 211 



[xivj 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 



CHAPTER I 

INTRODUCTORY REMARKS — LOCATION AND SOILS 

LAND DRAINAGE — IRRIGATION OF CROPS — 

ESTIMATES OF COST — INSTRUCTIONS 

JVl ARRET GARDENING as a business has some 
peculiar features in which it differs from other 
branches of agriculture. Many people have an 
impression that the growing of vegetables for 
market is like any ordinary farming, and are dis- 
posed to believe that any person who can plough, 
hoe and dig can grow one crop as well as another. 
Such people would find themselves sadly mistaken 
if they should undertake the business themselves 
and actually attempt to carry it on equipped with 
only a general knowledge of ordinary farm 
work. 

Market gardening Is made up of details; and, 
while each separate step may be easy of mastery 
by those who have a natural taste for the business, 
the whole art and a full comprehension of it can 
be acquired only by actual experience in the 

[3] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
work and thorough practical acquaintance with 
all the minor points. 

Therefore we desire every one to understand at 
the outset that a book on the subject, no matter 
how complete, can be only a helper, and a partial 
guide toward the desired knowledge. In other 
words, the rules that can be laid down on paper, 
however explicit they may be made, will never 
educate a man to be a successful gardener, unless he 
is himself naturally adapted to the business, and is 
willing to do his part by personally devoting him- 
self to the work, in all its details, as it goes along. 

And so in writing the cultural directions for the 
different crops, I do not expect to be explicit 
enough to enable a mere novice, with no knowl- 
edge whatever of the subject, to achieve a success 
in gardening the first year. This would be impos- 
sible for me to do, were I to attempt it — which 
I do not. Even should I set down the most minute 
particulars and details, there would be very few 
cases where one could carry them out to the letter, 
as culture and treatment must necessarily vary 
according to soil and locality. 

But my aim is simply this: by writing out 
practical directions and descriptions, gathered 

[4] 



INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 

from ffly own experience, to enable any one, 
alreadj)r in some degree familiar with the work to 
cultivate successfully the various crops enumer- 
ated; provided his land and location are adapted 
to them. I propose to give my readers, as far as 
possible, the benelfit of my own practical experi- 
ence, and the methods of a success in business 
which has been gained only by years of close 
application and hard work. 

In the following pages, I shall discuss at more 
or less length all the different products of the 
market garden; and some of the coarser crops, 
belonging rather to the ''farm garden," or even 
to the farm, will be incidentally treated of. In 
so doing, I shall go through the whole series in 
alphabetical order, in order that the reader may 
the more readily turn to the information he is 
seeking. I propose to devote space most liber- 
ally to the most important crops. A chapter on 
Farm Implements and other supplementary mat- 
ter will conclude the work. 

But there are certain conditions essential to all 
crops. Some of the most essential requirements 
of high cultivation, and even of the most ordi- 
nary soil culture, are often misconceived or over- 

[5] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

looked, to a serious extent. For which reason it 
seems best, before proceeding to particular direc- 
tions for particular crops, to treat, as fully as 
space will permit, of these general and very 
essential matters. 

LOCATION AND SOILS 

In seeking a good location for a market garden, 
of course the first point to be taken into con- 
sideration is the necessity of being near some 
good market. 

And, right here, we would say that the largest 
cities do not always offer the greatest induce- 
ments to beginners. There are hundreds of 
wide-awake towns all over the country which will 
furnish a good, though limited, market for men 
who are able to work up a trade. 

In these smaller towns, producers will often be 
enabled to realize better prices than in metropol- 
itan markets, both from the fact that there is less 
competition to meet, and also because the purcha- 
sers there found will be likely to look more to the 
quality, and less to the cheapness, of the article 
offered, than those resorting to the city markets. 

[6] 



LOCATION AND SOILS 

As we) have mentioned, nearness to market is 
an imgjdrtant point, but the character of the soil 
and the lay of the land are of importance almost 
as vital as location. Of course, for a variety of 
crops, the land should be varied in character. 
But such variety cannot always be obtained, so 
that many are confined to one or two distinct 
kinds of soil, and in such cases find themselves 
limited to such few crops as are particularly 
adapted to their land and location. 

Rocky ground is, of course, and by all means to 
be avoided for garden crops, in view of the deep 
and uniform cultivation they need to receive. 
And low lands which require under-draining are 
adapted only to certain special crops, and involve 
heavy outlays to make them capable of profitable 
culture. Preferably to either, a sandy loam with a 
sandy or gravelly subsoil should be selected. Such 
land is far better than soils resting on clay, not 
only because its nature is warmer, but because it 
is naturally well drained. A clay subsoil, at 
least until deep drains have been sunk and oper- 
ated a considerable time, will render any land 
cold, as it retains the moisture. 

[7] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

If one can have his choice as regards the lay 
of his land, gently rolling or undulating slopes 
with a general eastern or southern exposure 
should by all means be selected. This will make 
more difference than some might imagine; as a 
northern or western slope is not nearly so soon 
affected by the genial spring influences as a more 
sunny location. 

The difference between a northern and a south- 
ern slope often amounts to one crop a year; for 
on the sunny side of a rise of land the soil can be 
worked in the spring so much earlier that, by 
right calculation, two crops a year can be grown, 
the first of which can be planted earlier — and the 
second can actually be harvested sooner — than 
the one crop raised on a northern slope. 
■ Sloping land has still another advantage, almost 
equally desirable with that derived from having 
the right exposure, consisting in the facility it 
affords for irrigation. If a water supply can be 
brought to and stored in a tank, constructed on 
a natural elevation within the area to be irri- 
gated, the slopes of course furnish the most con- 
venient means possible for its distribution to the 
crops. And if the location is fortunately near a 

[8] 



. LOCATION AND SOILS 

large poiid, or unfailing brook, the privilege of 
access to such a water supply would very greatly 
increase the real value of the land for every sort 
of cultivation. 

It should be noticed that some ground which in 
its native condition is quite incapable of bearing 
good crops has yet a superior natural capacityy 
that may be developed by skilful handling and 
liberal expenditure. This is especially true of 
lands lying on a retentive subsoil, and such lands, 
after some years of thorough draining and deep 
tilth, will show admirable results. In treating 
of drainage, we shall endeavour to make it clear 
how such a course of culture operates to mellow 
and warm the cold, barren soils, and bring them 
into high condition. In fact — having a good 
exposure to begin with — by drainage, deep tilth, 
generous and judicious manuring and irrigation, 
as required, the most barren spot on earth can be 
made as highly productive as any other soil, even 
the richest. It is only a question of time and 
expense. Accordingly it has been said, not with- 
out some truth, that after all the chief matter in 
choosing a location is its convenience to markets of 
sale and supply; because if the soil be never so 

[9] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
unfavourable the owner can make it over to suit 
himself, while if he is remote from market he can 
do nothing to help himself as regards that diffi- 
culty. All these considerations have weight, and 
must be duly allowed for; but the point I desire 
most to insist upon is the advantages possessed 
by the loams lying on sandy or gravelly subsoils, 
in their excellent natural drainage, and in being 
easy of cultivation. 

LAND DRAINAGE 

Land, Soil, or Agricultural Drainage is a topic 
already touched upon, because inevitably presenting 
itself in connection with the choice of a proper 
location; but it is quite too large a subject to 
be dismissed with a brief and merely casual 
mention. 

In selecting a location for either market garden- 
ing or farming, it is preferable, as we have said, to 
secure land that is naturally well drained. By 
this description we designate a soil which, owing 
to inclination of surface, or from having a porous 
subsoil, lets the water pass off quickly after a heavy 
rainfall, and which therefore stands in no need of 

[10] 



LAND DRAINAGE 

artificial drainage. But it is not always possible 
to secure such a location, and in many cases arti- 
ficial drainage is the only means by which the best 
of fafming land can be brought under cultiva- 
tion. 

It would be impossible in a volume of this 
size, even if wholly devoted to the topic, to give 
a complete description, with all details of methods 
and materials employed, for constructing the 
tile drains now in general use. We can only hope 
to give a few detached suggestions on the subject, 
such as may be of benefit to our readers in improv- 
ing waste land, and in rendering heavy, soggy fields 
more tillable, and turning to account their natural 
fertility. 

Amongst all the various ways of constructing 
permanent drains — with stone, brush, square and 
sole tile, etc. — it has become the well-established 
general opinion that well-burned round tiles, with 
collars, if well laid, form the best. And in 
the long run they also prove the cheapest; 
although at first more expensive than some other 
devices. 

Cobble-stone drains, such as in some localities 
are largely used in place of tile, are, when properly 

[11] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

laid, actually more costly. And still more objec- 
tionable is the fact that, although in some instances 
they may last a long time and prove quite service- 
able, they are always liable to be reached by 
surface v^ater, which, by carrying silt into them, 
stops them up, and of course renders them 
useless. 

The general principles to be observed in laying 
a stone drain are quite well understood. But a 
mistake is often made by lack of diligence in 
securing proper covering, and especially by resort- 
ing to the use of turf, which is often dumped in 
upon the stones, and which, when decayed, forms 
the most effective possible material for obstruct- 
ing the drain. 

There are many ways of constructing cheap 
drains of brush, slabs, poles, etc., but they are 
sure to clog up and create trouble sooner or later; 
and, as we have said before, the round tile when 
well laid, generally speaking, forms the cheapest 
and most satisfactory means of draining. 

In planning for the draining of a field, the 
chiefly important item is to take notice of the 
lowest point; at which the outlet must be formed. 
If a natural watercourse can be found near by, 

[12] 



LAND DRAINAGE 

as mUch as four or five feet lower than the lowest 
surface df the field, it will be a great saving, both 
as regards expense and trouble. The ditch by 
which the water is carried from the outlet must be 
of sufficient capacity to serve its purpose at all 
times and seasons in a thoroughly adequate 
manner. 

The laying out of mains, sub-mains, and laterals 
must depend wholly upon the character and 
condition of the land. More skill is required to 
lay out properly a complicated system of drains 
than to conduct any other branch of the gardener's 
work; and the designing of it is a more puzzling 
matter than people generally realize, until they 
have had some experience in it. 

In the brief space which we can give to the 
subject it is impossible to describe minutely the 
methods of mapping out such a system; and we 
cannot do better, therefore, than to refer our 
readers to George E. Waring, Jr.'s able work on 
"Draining for Profit and Draining for Health," 
which is the most complete work on this subject 
with which we are acquainted. Any one who 
has even a moderate amount of this class of 
improvements in contemplation ought by all 

[13] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

means to possess a copy of the above-named book, 
and make himself master of its contents by careful 
and diligent study. 

The author recommends a general depth of 
four feet for drains; never admitting a less depth 
unless where an outlet at that depth cannot be 
obtained, or where ground is underlaid by rock. 
There is a general concurrence of opinion amongst 
those who have most carefully examined the sub- 
ject, favouring this rule for the least depth. At 
intermediate points occurring between such (mini- 
mum) depths, the depth must be often greater, 
because the drain must slope uniformly from 
point to point, while the land does not. 

As regards the distance between the drains, 
there is a difference of opinion, in fact this is a 
question which does not admit of any exact or 
definite solution, as it obviously depends in a great 
degree upon the peculiar constitution of the soil, 
which is variable; and, moreover, no amount of 
practical experience even will afford data for 
reducing practice to any well-grounded theoretical 
rule. It is not feasible to state, in exact terms, 
precisely what is the operation of these subterran- 
ean drains upon the moisture of the soil; but an 

[14] 



LAND DRAINAGE 

idea suflSciently definite for all practical purposes 
may be gathered from experience. 

In tolerably porous soils, forty, or even fifty 
feet apart is generally conceded to be sufficiently 
near for four-foot drains. But for the more 
retentive clays, all distances from eighteen feet 
to fifty have been recommended. The feeling 
grows more in favour of the greater width, from 
continued observation of the successful working 
of drains so placed. Still the author's opinion, 
formed from over twenty years of personal experi- 
ence and observation of such works, and with 
due consideration of views published by others, is 
that we should hardly ever, where a soil needs 
draining at all, leave widths exceeding forty 
feet. 

He further says that, in the lighter loams, there 
has been good success in following Professor 
Mapes's rule: that ** three-foot drains should be 
placed twenty feet apart, and for each additional 
foot in depth the distance may be doubled. For 
instance, four-foot drains may be forty feet apart, 
and five-foot drains eighty feet apart." But with 
reference to this greater distance — eighty feet — 
it is not to be recommended in stiff clays for any 

[15] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

depth of drain. When it is necessary, on account 
of underlying rock or by reason of insufficient fall, 
to go only three feet deep, the drains should be 
as near together as twenty feet. 

No great exactness can be had in such a matter 
as this. In consideration of the variety of soils, and 
our inability to measure the exact amount of water 
to be drawn off (which is never a constant 
quantity), or even the rate at which it may reach 
the drains by percolation through any given soil, 
uniform depths and distances cannot of course 
be prescribed with any pretence to theoretical 
precision. A general judgment made up from 
experience and observation is all that can be 
offered. 

For explanation of the beneficial influences of 
draining, we must endeavour to realize some of 
the conditions of plant life. One of these is 
moisture at the roots. If drainage were attended 
by a complete withdrawal of all the permanent 
moisture of the soil, no one would be its advocate. 
Some imagine that wherever executed it is to the 
detriment of the land's capacity for production, 
though increasing its capacity for being cultivated. 
They say "more tillable is not more fertile. Tile 

[16] 



LAND DRAINAGE 

draining is a craze. Wholesale rules without 
discrimination are a curse. Drained lands are 
not invariably better than the same lands 
undrained," etc. 

But we maintain that in all soils not naturally 
well drained (and so not requiring it) draining 
does as much good by promoting moisture during 
periods of drought, as by removal of the surplus 
water, which would otherwise destroy the pro- 
ductive capacity of the land. This is due to the 
fact that the deeper tilth and pulverization of the 
drained lands enable them to hold in saturation, 
as water is held in a sponge, valuable stores of 
water to be given off a little at a time, as needed, 
and also to draw up from below, by capillary 
attraction, similar timely supplies — while all 
excess and surplus is promptly gotten rid of. 

A published work by A. N. Cole contains sug- 
gestions of interest in this connection. We have 
suggested that the most perfect drainage does not 
aim at a complete withdrawal of all the moisture; 
water is essential to plant life, but the land must not 
be drowned with w^ater. Air and water both must 
be presented to the feeding roots. He says, 
*' Tilled land being porous, the air forces its way 

[17] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

into the crevices, and the water (of rains) passes 
through it from above. We will suppose that the 
water comes to a stratum that is impervious to its 
onward course. What happens.^ Simply this: 
it dams up slowly, inch by inch, forcing out the 
air as it rises. All motion and circulation is 
stopped. Fermentation and decomposition soon 
begin. The earth is drowned out — suffocated — 
dead for want of air. Water is good for the 
ground.^ Yes; but not in this way. The water 
must be moving constantly. There must be a 
current of air and water, and not too much or 
too little of the latter." 

The processes of pulverization, which will be 
described under the title "Preparation of the Soil," 
are such as to provide for the admission of the air. 
We shall now consider, in the remainder of the 
present chapter, by what means we may supply 
the needful amount of the other indispensable 
element, water. By drainage we provide for the 
removal of a surplus, whether from rains or 
springs; our next care must be for supply and 
distribution of a quantity adequate, in the longest 
and severest droughts, to the exacting needs of 
the growing crops. This supply and dis- 

[18] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

tribution constitute what is intended by the 
term * ' Irrigation . ' ' 

^IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

Artificial watering, especially as now conducted, 
forms perhaps one of the most important subjects 
that we could write upon. All vegetables are com- 
posed largely of water, some containing more 
than 75 per cent. A single hill of cucumbers, 
as has been said, will drink half a barrelful of 
water in three days' time, and, having done so, 
will begin languishing for lack of moisture, and 
die in a week. According to Dr. J. H. Gilbert, 
for every ton of dry substance grown, in an average 
crop, an amount of water equivalent to three 
inches of rain is exhaled in the process; which 
amounts to about two hundred times the weight of 
the vegetable product. And Sir J. B. Lawes 
arrived at substantially the same result by his 
own researches, separately prosecuted. Hence it 
will be readily seen that, unless there is moisture 
enough when the crop requires it, there will be a 
shortage in the harvest. 

What is commonly called an ** impoverished 

[19] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

soil," or one considered naturally unfertile, may 
be in fact good enough in itself, its only deficiency 
being in the matter of moisture. We often see 
a poor piece of land yielding a good crop in a 
wet season; and artificial watering on a grand 
scale has, in many well-known instances in Colo- 
rado, California, and elsewhere, both at home 
and abroad, converted absolute deserts into pro- 
ductive grain farms and fruit and cattle ranches. 
Although the rainfall during each year averages 
about the same now as in former periods, the 
seasons are changing in this respect: that the 
rainfall is not so evenly divided, and we get longer 
and more protracted droughts; not relieved by 
the fact that the rainfalls, when they do come, 
are heavier. For this reason the subject of irri- 
gation is constantly gaining in importance. It 
involves questions, both in regard to the supply of 
water and the manner of applying it. Of course 
there are many cases where land is not located 
so as to be easily irrigated. Whatever the location 
is, no matter if quite favourable, it will require 
careful management in laying out the rows and 
planting the crops, to secure a plan which will 
allow of irrigating to the best advantage. The 

[20] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

rows should always run up and down the slope 
of ground, and more or less obliquely if the ground 
is at a|l steep (instead of crosswise), so as to allow 
of watering in the furrow, which is the proper 
way, as the moisture is required to be applied 
to the roots and not the foliage. 

One excellent method of applying moisture to 
the soil consists in sending water through lines 
of tiles properly laid in the ground, with joints 
slightly open between each tile and the next one — 
a method mostly practised on low lands. The 
distribution of the moisture is accomplished very 
successfully, by stopping the lowest end of each 
line of tiles and filling into it from the highest 
point. This method I would recommend for 
low and heavy lands; because if water were to 
be applied to the surface, the soil would harden 
and an injury to the growing crop would result. 
On sandy lands the largest benefit will be derived 
by running it over the surface about once a week; 
applying about one inch at a time, which is above 
the average quantity resulting from a good rain- 
fall in our New England climate. 

When the rainfalls are of average amount and 
come with uniformity, no addition by way of 

[21] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

irrigation is required; but when, as is very often the 
case, no rain falls for two or three weeks or more, 
it may become necessary to make two or three 
applications. Irrigation by watering the foliage 
is not recommended, except under glass, where 
it is often necessary, and can be applied without 
injury to the growing crop. 

It is better to water under glass on a pleasant 
day than on a stormy or cloudy one; but in the 
field a cloudy one would be preferred, if the water 
was to be applied so as to wet the foliage. 

There are numerous market gardeners at the 
present time who have abundant facilities for 
supplying themselves with water for irrigation; 
though it has only been secured, ordinarily, by 
a liberal outlay. 

Although many places are located near towns 
or cities which have a public water supply, they 
cannot be allowed to draw from the supply in 
such large quantities as are required for purposes 
of irrigation, as the need would come at a time 
when the water was the lowest in the reservoir, 
and was most in demand for other purposes. It 
is, therefore, necessary that the land to be irrigated 
should be located near a pond, lake, or stream, 

[22] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

or resort must be had to undercurrents of water 
that may be reached by a driven well. 

I much prefer to pump from wells in all cases, 
because iti the summer the water from ponds or 
rivers is quite warm, while that from wells is 
cool, and this coolness will be an advantage to the 
crop, especially if the ground is very dry and hot, 
as is often the case; and again in winter, if taken 
from ponds or rivers, is very cold, and could not 
be put upon the plants until it had been warmed, 
while that taken from wells would be at a proper 
temperature to be applied immediately. For 
these reasons I have always preferred the wells; 
and have always used them. 

Pumps used for irrigating are of three kinds, 
depending on their motive power, namely, wind- 
mills, steam pumps and gasoline pumps. For those 
who can afford the outlay it is much the better 
plan to have a windmill with either of the others. 

The windmill will do the cheapest pumping 
but when it does not pump a sufficient quantity 
then the other motive power can be used. 

My experience with steam power has been 
much more extensive than with gasoline engines, 
and for that reason in the following pages I will 

[23] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
discuss principally pumping by steam. However, 
gasoline pumps are being used more extensively 
every year, and it may be an open question whether 
they can do the work at less expense. In many 
places there are elevated ponds or rivers that can 
be caused to flow by gravity to the point desired, 
either through closed conduits or pipes, or in 
open canals; when such is the case, no pumping 
is necessary. 

After a suflScient supply of water is found, and 
a method of raising it to a proper height for dis- 
tribution, by the use either of steam pumps or 
windmills, or both — a tank or reservoir of the 
largest attainable capacity must next be provided 
for the purpose of storing the water so raised 
until it can properly be distributed to the crops. 
Where windmills are used, for obvious reasons, 
the storage capacity must be greater than where 
steam pumps are employed. This may amount 
to a considerable addition to the first cost; but, 
on the other hand, the cost of steam pump and 
boiler is somewhat greater, and the running 
expenses considerably so. There are incidental 
advantages attending the use of steam which may 
be of great importance. The preference must 

[U] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

depend upon one's situation; as above said, it 
will pay to have both. 

The>xpense of fitting up such an arrangement 
for irrigat^ing a market garden is not so large 
that gardeners should say they cannot afford it. 
At present prices and in the light of our present 
experience, we can reckon the cost at figures 
much lower than five years ago. If one has not 
the means to pay for these facilities, and does 
not feel warranted in going into debt for what 
one wants, of course one must do without them, 
and depend on transient watering from summer 
showers. But it becomes more and more evident 
every year that such a course will ruin the man 
who follows it. The ill effects of the increasing 
irregularity of the rainfall are mitigated, it is true, 
by deeper ploughing and the construction of drain- 
age works, but all crops (some more than others), 
in addition to every other aid that can be given 
them, will need besides, at certain times, abundant 
watering. Even in the most favourable seasons, 
resort must be had to artificial watering at inter- 
vals, to secure the growing and maturing of a crop 
such as to give satisfaction, and reward the gar- 
dener for his labour. 

[25] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

Unfortunately we do not know from one day 
to another what weather to expect, whether a 
deluge or a drought. We are in constant fear 
lest the shower that comes to-day may be the 
last for a month; yet we have to put the water 
on lightly for fear there may be a deluge the next 
day. One inch of water at any one time is all 
that is safe to apply. If there is no rain for a 
week, then another inch; and so on through the 
season, as the necessity appears. I think that 
one inch of water over the surface once a week 
will keep any crop growing in the driest weather. 

A good steam pump will supply that amount 
over one acre of land through a three-inch pipe 
in six hours. For about nine months of the 
year a windmill would furnish all the water 
required by a market garden, but during the 
other three months a steam pump would be 
required in addition in order to furnish a suffi- 
cient supply for all seasons. 

On a later page we shall present a cut of a com- 
pact and serviceable steam apparatus designed 
for pumping, under Deane's patent. It combines 
all the essential features needed for drawing 
water from the source of supply (well, spring, 

[26] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

stream, pond, or tank), and forcing the water 
any distance and height to a point suitable for 
distributing it, by gravity, over the land to be 
irrigated; or, as frequently practised, forcing it 
through pipes to hydrants, where hose can be 
used for further distribution. In some cases the 
hose may run directly from the pump. It is 
much more easily understood and managed than 
might be supposed, owing to the simplicity and 
compact style of its construction. It is claimed 
to be the simplest arrangement of the kind on the 
market, and such that any one of ordinary intel- 
ligence can learn to operate it in half a day.* 
The easiest and often the best way of leading 
the water to various localities at will is by the use of 
rubber hose; this is cheaper than pipe, which is 
heavy, and very awkward to handle. It is often 
found practicable to obtain rejected steam fire- 
engine hose which, although not strong enough 
to stand the pressure of the steam fire-engines, is 
amply strong enough to use for irrigating. There 
is seldom more than thirty pounds' pressure, as 
the water is not forced, but is allowed to run 
through the open hose. The amount of land that 

♦Consult Chapter Seven. 

[27] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

can be irrigated by the use of a steam pump in a 
day of twelve hours is about three acres. By 
using a suitable pump we can throw one hundred 
gallons per minute, which, in a day of twelve 
hours, would be equivalent to covering three acres 
more than seven-eighths of an inch deep; equiva- 
lent in quantity to what we should call an abund- 
ant fall of rain ; — indeed, it is rather more than 
an average of rainfalls, and certainly we cannot 
believe there is ever an acre of growing crop which, 
in a dry time, would not be benefited by such a 
watering to an amount much more than the cost; 
though many people shrink from the expense 
involved, and are skeptical about getting full 
return for the outlay. 

But certainly where water can be had in ample 
quantity, and can be applied at such moderate 
cost as may be inferred from the foregoing state- 
ments, it must be plain to every one, and, 
practically, every one does now believe that it 
will and does pay, in frequent instances earning 
many times over the amount it costs. It has 
oftentimes occurred that such watering, once 
or oftener applied, has saved a crop that, without 
it, would have been a complete failure. For 

[28] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

my part, I would as soon think of being without 
a steam pump as the farmer who cuts hay would 
of being without a mowing-machine. 
^^ There is very seldom a season so wet that the 
steam pump will not be required two or three 
weeks; and in most seasons it will be in use eight 
or ten weeks. When the weather is very dry, 
and all the crops need abundant watering, the 
pump should be kept running night and day, 
by employing two sets of men. It will be economy 
to do this, not only from the fact that a double 
supply is thus obtained, but because when the 
fire is allowed to go out at night it takes about an 
hour to get the pump to running again. By 
continuous running, time is saved at both ends 
of the day. 

Be sure to provide a good pump, one that will 
pump at least seventy, and better if one hundred, 
gallons per minute. I do not recommend the 
smaller pump, for it will cost just as much to run 
one of the small size, except for a trifling difference 
in the quantity of coal required; and the price of 
a large pump is not much more than that of a 
small one, while it will do many times the work 
with the same labour. 

[29] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

It takes one man to run the pump and one to 
attend to the hose. Only a very little hose will 
be required, if the land is well piped in the manner 
following: I would advise beginning the piping 
with two-and-one-half-inch cement-lined pipe 
placed under ground with hydrants set but a 
short distance apart. Run one such line from 
the tank-supply main fed by the mill or pump, 
as the case may be, to each of the buildings and 
hot-beds; and pipe for all the outside culture 
with three-inch pipe of the same class carried 
above ground, and furnished with faucets suitable 
for attaching hose at intervals, so arranged that 
the distance in any direction from each faucet 
to the next shall not exceed seventy-five or eighty 
feet. This surface-pipe must be taken up each 
year in the fall and replaced every spring. 

Such arrangements may appear rather expen- 
sive, but it will save much time in the busy season 
to have the water carried to all parts of the place. 
On a place of ten acres, the cost of putting in 
pump, boiler, pipes, and fittings need not be over 
$1,000. I would rather have a place of ten acres 
well fitted up for irrigation, than one of twenty 
without irrigation; and I venture the assertion 

[30] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

that I could raise more vegetables, or receive 
more money for my crops, in a period of ten years, 
from the ten acres irrigated, than from the twenty 
acres not irrigated. 

Any farm that has been well equipped for 
irrigation, whether it be one or five, ten or twenty 
acres, will bring enough more at any time, when 
oflFered for sale, to pay for the amount so expended. 
Therefore, the expense, beyond fuel, labour 
and repairs, would be only the annual interest 
on the cost. We will allow $50.00 for interest, 
or $5.00 per acre on ten acres. The direct cost 
of running pump for twenty-four hours continu- 
ously, would consist of the following items: 
Coal, $3.00; skilled labour, including repairs, 
$7.00; additional help in moving hose, $2.00; 
making a total of $12.00, to which add, for wear 
and tear, $2.00; then we have $14.00 as the cost, 
exclusive of interest, for each watering of six 
acres; or $2.33 per acre. 

But the total interest charge remaining un- 
changed, whatever the number of waterings made 
in a season, has to be borne in equal shares 
by all the waterings. The resulting cost for a 
single watering might be as high as $7.33 per 

[31] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

acre, if it were the only one made that season; 
but if two applications are made, the cost drops 
to $4.83 per acre. In the case of three, the 
resulting cost for each one will amount only to 
$4.00 per acre; and, where there are four, only 
$3.58. 

In the foregoing calculation we have reckoned 
on the pump as discharging one hundred gallons 
a minute. The seventy-gallon pump would, sub- 
stantially, do the watering of only four acres, 
instead of six, within the time computed for, 
with but an imperceptible amount of saving on 
the total cost of the day's operations. 

The practice of irrigating by the aid of pipes 
and hydrants has only lately been introduced here, 
and owing to the great outlay involved, the method 
is used by comparatively few. But too much 
cannot be said in favour of irrigation ; and the use 
of windmills and steam pumps has become well- 
nigh universal.* 

In one instance, which was reported to the Mass- 
achusetts Horticultural Society, in a severe drought, 
a steam pump was rigged, and the water of Mystic 
River was poured for seven days and nights upon 

*Consult Chapter Seven. 

[32] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

a parched field, averaging 75,000 gallons per day, 

or a quantity equal to three inches over the entire 

surface, at a cost, including all expenses, of perhaps 

A^u feents per 1,000 gallons. 

Somewhat later, in 1884, the present writer 
had six acres planted with cauliflowers. This 
is a crop which does not show the effect of dry 
weather until about to head; when, if there is 
danger of a check, the application of water will 
cause them to go right on. That year the need 
was urgent, and he devoted his steam pump to 
the work of supply — running it continuously 
for four weeks, with two men by day and two 
to relieve them at night. From these six acres 
he sold $3,500 worth of cauliflowers. If he had 
not irrigated them he would not, probably, have 
realized over $1,000 for his crop. Very many 
similar instances might be given. 

In applying the water to a field of cabbages or 
cauliflowers, the rows being about three and a 
half feet apart, a plough is run between the rows, 
so as to make a furrow for the w^ater to run in. 
It is a very easy matter to water a field where 
the land is on a slope, but w^here it is nearly level 
it is much more work, as the hose has to be fre- 

[33] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

quently transferred to different points in order 
to water evenly. 

In watering a field of celery a furrow is ploughed 
away from the plants, on each side of the row, 
at a distance of about one foot. The furrow 
is then filled with water; and as soon as this has 
soaked away the furrow is turned back again. 
An application of this kind once a week will prove 
sufficient even in the driest time. 

It will be manifest, upon reflection, that con- 
tinuous light waterings are not what is desired. 
Water cannot, of course, be applied without 
reducing the temperature of the soil very materially, 
and thus occasioning, for the time, a condition 
unfavourable to the advance of the crop. This 
is a matter for serious consideration, in connection 
with many crops, especially in a climate like ours. 
In the case of light waterings, frequently repeated, 
a larger proportion disappears by immediate 
evaporation, thus wasting work, and, moreover, 
by this excessive evaporation, still further and 
needlessly reducing the temperature of the soil. 
Liberal supplies at proper intervals are rather to 
be given, transferring the delivery from one section 
of the grounds to another, on successive days, 

[34] 



IRRIGATION OF CROPS 

and so continuing till it is time to resume the round. 
The proper intervals, in a time of drought, may 
be taken to be about one week, on the average, 
though this must vary with the crop, the soil, the 
temperature, and the judgment of the cultivator. 
The same variation may be expected in estimating 
the amount of water necessary for one thorough 
irrigation. No general estimate on these points 
can be given that will be at all satisfactory, except 
merely as a rough rule for planning the scale of the 
works. In establishing such a system, no great 
nicety of calculation is likely to be of any value. 
The data already given, and the practical examples 
which have been cited, will enable any one, making 
due allowance for variations of circumstances, 
to arrive at a conclusion near enough for his 
purposes. 



[35] 



CHAPTER II 

PREPARATION OF THE SOIL — LAYING OUT OF 

LAND FOR THE DIFFERENT CROPS ROTATION 

OF CROPS MANURES — THEIR APPLICATION 

J\ PROPER preparation of the soil, prior to 
sowing or planting, is one of the most impor- 
tant conditions involved in the process of getting 
a crop. We shall not aim to discuss at length 
the principles on which it depends, but confine 
ourselves in the main to simple and practical 
directions as to the work to be done. 

Ploughing, subsoiling, harrowing, raking, and 
(at some stage of the process) manuring — these 
constitute the main operations by which the land, 
after being stripped of a crop, is put into condition 
to be planted with another. 

For all market-garden crops we recommend 
that the ground be ploughed once before an appli- 
cation of manure is made. In the case of all leaf 
crops, like celery, cabbage, etc., eight inches 
would be a sufficient depth for this first ploughing, 

[36] 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 

before the manure is applied. For the second 
ploughing, which is to turn the manure under, a 
depth pf six inches would be sufficient, and prefer- 
able: so as to leave the manure as near the surface 
as possible, and still have it covered. 

Then, if the land is lumpy or hard, a wheel 
harrow or some implement for breaking up the 
lumps should be put to service. Lumpy, uneven 
ground, or coarse soil, will never do to plant in: 
seeds will not catch uniformly or grow well in 
it; the plants will lack uniformity, and will not 
mature together. The importance of this matter 
is too generally underrated; very few people have 
anything like an adequate idea of it. If the 
ground is to be devoted to raising greens, or some 
sowed crop where a drill is to be employed, a 
Meeker harrow will smooth the surface nicely, 
so that the seed-sower will do its work to satis- 
faction. A full description of its operation may 
be found in the chapter treating on Farming 
Implements. 

This harrow will prepare the surface sufficiently 
well for such crops as onions, cabbages, or beets, 
and for spinach and other sorts of greens; but 
for such small, fine seeds as those of lettuce, 

[37] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

or dandelion, the hand rake must be brought 
into service. 

For root crops, at the first ploughing a depth 
of twelve inches would be none too much. In 
ploughing for deep-rooted crops, like parsnips, 
long carrots, or horseradish, the second ploughing 
should be of eight inches' depth; and this should 
be followed by a "subsoil," after which use the 
Meeker harrow or leveller, as already directed. 

After ploughing and harrowing, it is often 
advisable to pass the roller over the land. The 
horse roller is a very useful article, and is used 
very extensively. When the ground has been 
harrowed, and the lumps not yet broken are 
brought to the surface, the roller is put on to 
crush and smooth them out. It is also very 
beneficial on light land, in dry weather, to help 
the land to retain a sufficient quantity of moisture. 
I have found the use of a good horse roller to be 
of great advantage, both in breaking up and 
pulverizing lumpy land, and in firming down 
soil that has been thrown up very lightly during 
previous preparation. Such soil, until again com- 
pacted, is prone to become excessively dry; a 
result which is obviated by use of the roller. The 

[38] 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 

top should be perfectly dry before rolling, in order 
to obtain the desired effect. 

We havBv already alluded to subsoiling, and 
wish to remark here that the subsoil plough is a 
valuable, indeed, an indispensably necessary imple- 
ment, and should be invariably put to use in the 
preparation of the ground for all root crops. The 
subsoil should follow after the landside plough, 
in the same furrow, and go down to a depth of 
fifteen or eighteen inches. It usually takes two 
horses, as the larger sizes of ploughs do; and it 
is even harder for the team than common plough- 
ing. There are small subsoilers which can be 
used with one horse; but if the land requires sub- 
soiling at all, it is better economy to use the larger 
size and do the work more thoroughly. 

In the concluding chapter, relating to Farm 
Implements, a sufficient description will be given 
of the different ploughs that are likely to be 
required, both landside and subsoil. At this 
point I wish to call attention to the great impor- 
tance of keeping them always clean and bright. 
Never allow the ploughman to put his plough 
away with any dirt upon it. It is the sure mark 
of a poor ploughman, when his plough is covered 

[39] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

with dirt, and goes through the land like a 
stick. 

In fact, there are but very few good ploughmen 
to be had, and any employer is fortunate if he 
gets one. Many men will cdll themselves good 
at ploughing; but the men who really understand 
it, and do it as it should be done, are very scarce. 
When such a man is found, he should be kept 
on the place, if possible. 

In ploughing land for the different crops, 
some plough about the same depth for everything; 
but the depth ought to be varied so as to suit the 
crop. For instance: all root crops should be 
ploughed from ten to twelve inches; while, for 
vine crops, six inches would be quite sufficient. 
Many take, in all cases, all they can to the furrow, 
making it, say, twelve or fourteen inches wide; 
but where the land is ploughed twelve inches 
deep, and a coat of manure is turned under at 
the same time, eight inches is wide enough to 
turn the furrow. In a ''first-time" ploughing, 
six inches deep, with no manure to turn under, 
twelve or fourteen inches may be taken at each 
furrow. Always plough all the land once in the 
fall and twice in the spring, but never when it 

[40] 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 
is wet. Soil that is worked when very wet, except 
sometimes a very sandy piece, will scarcely 
recover froM it for a whole season. 

The purpose of the fall ploughing will be most 
completely accomplished by leaving the land in 
clods and rough, loose ridges, for the frost to 
operate upon during the winter. The greater 
the surface thus exposed to the influence of the 
atmosphere and changes of weather, the better 
for the soil and the coming season's crops. More- 
over, late turning over the ground is an effectual 
means of killing off the larvae of the May beetle, 
the pestilent white grub, and other larvae of insects. 
Being disturbed from their winter quarters, they 
are to a great extent destroyed by exposure to 
the cold and air. 

In the case of sod land to be prepared for 
tilled crops, there is a manifest advantage in 
turning it earlier in the season, so as to hasten 
the decay of the turf; but with land already 
under cultivation the case is entirely different, 
and the later it can be done the better. 

It is, of course, assumed that everything neces- 
sary to a perfect drainage has been done prior 
to the process of preparation here described. 

[41] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

Wherever the water has been extracted by drainage, 
it leaves a moderate moisture in the soil (until 
withdrawn by evaporation or taken up by the 
crop), which is exactly the condition most favour- 
able to vegetation. The various processes of 
preparation, and later cultivation, are directed 
more especially to the maintenance of this con- 
dition. 

The ground should be finely pulverized both 
at and below the surface, encouraging the roots 
to strike downward and below the immediate 
influence of the hot sun. The air entering through 
the fine interstices of the soil condenses its latent 
moisture upon the cooler portions beneath the 
surface; thus contributing materially to the desired 
moisture, and also aiding the chemical changes 
attendant upon plant growth. 

Another very important result of thorough and 
deep pulverization is the capacity afforded to the 
soil of directly absorbing and holding rain-water 
which otherwise would flow off wastefully, if 
not destructively, on the surface. Any one can 
see for himself the contrast between a soil which 
has received this thorough tilth, and one which 
has not; the latter looks well enough early in 

142] 



LAYING OUT LAND FOR CROPS 

the season, but is burned up when the summer 
heats begin; while the deep-tilled land, on the 
contrary, hol^ the moisture like a damp sponge 
down below the reach of the sun; and its presence 
there is plainly visible in the crop. 

LAYING OUT LAND FOR CROPS 

A careful and definite plan, to be adhered to 
with as much strictness as the nature of the case 
will admit, is essentially necessary at the very 
outset of operations. If one is well acquainted 
with the land one is cultivating, and knows what 
crops have been grown on each portion of it 
the previous season, of course one can make one's 
plans accordingly. But if it be the first season 
of one's occupation the arrangements must of 
necessity be guided by such information as one 
has. In that case, they will be partly experimental, 
and changes will be from time to time inevitably 
incurred; but this disadvantage should be avoided 
as far as careful attention to the subject will enable 
one. 

It is a good idea, when practicable, to have a 
plan of the garden on paper, and to have this 

[43] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

made during the winter; so that the intended 
arrangement of crops can be mapped out for the 
coming season. This will, of course, be a con- 
venient guide in placing the manure for each 
crop at the point where it is to be used, in pro- 
curing supplies of seed, and also in many other 
details. 

In mapping out a field in this manner, a person 
must of course understand the rotation, or suc- 
cession, of crops, in order to do the mapping 
intelligently; and accordingly we shall proceed 
to consider this subject next in order. 

ROTATION OF CROPS 

The right succession of crops for enabling the 
cultivator to obtain paying results, both in the 
harvests to be gathered first and in condition of 
the soil for further culture, has always been a 
subject of much importance to every tiller of the 
soil; and is also interesting from a scientific point 
of view. 

The difference between the old style of summer 
fallowing and the present well -understood plans 
of rotation is so considerable that the two ways 

[44] 



ROTATION OF CROPS 

are styled by some the '*old" and *'new" agri- 
cultures. 

Under the^/olH^ system, an occasional year of 
fallowing was relied upon to rest the ground and 
renew the plant food in the soil, so that in the 
succeeding year a larger yield could be obtained 
than if the land had been cropped continuously. 

Fallowing, although of benefit in some respects, 
is wasteful in two ways. The land of course is 
yielding no income in the idle year; here there 
is a loss of interest on capital. And then, too, as 
I am persuaded, there is always more or less waste 
and loss of plant food going on from any soil that 
is left exposed to the sun and rain during the 
summer months. At least two and often three 
crops in a year with constant tilth (including, with 
other benefits to the soil, the suppression of all 
weeds and wild growth) represent the "new" 
method. It is decidedly in contrast with the old 
at all points — and seems at all points to have the 
advantage of it. 

The correct theory of rotation proposes, while 
making immediate use of the plant food already 
in the soil, at the same time to prepare the soil for 
producing the other crops that are next to follow. 

[45] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

In arranging for a system of rotation, we should 
aim to grow such crops and under such culture 
as will keep the soil well supplied with humus, 
or plant food. 

No exact rules can be laid down as to the order 
in which crops should be planted in rotation, but it 
should be remembered that some plants by nature 
feed near the surface (like corn, for instance), 
while others, take clover, for example, draw the 
most of their nourishment from deep down in the 
soil. 

The object should be always to avoid following 
one deep-rooted crop by a similar one; taking 
great care to alternate them with others as con- 
stantly as possible. It is well, when practicable, 
to follow a slow-growing crop with one of quick 
growth, or vice versa. No root crop should follow 
one of a similar character; nor should vines 
follow vines. Alternation is always beneficial. 
Onions are very generally regarded as an excep- 
tion to this general rule, and to some extent they 
doubtless are so ; but I have not found it advisable 
to grow them on the same ground many con- 
secutive years, as they are far more likely to 
become maggoty, and otherwise diseased, than 

[46] 



ROTATION OF CROPS 

when the ground is changed once in two or three 
seasons. ' 

There is considerable truth in the suggestion 
that a good rotation can only be had when con- 
ducted by competent management, as hinted in 
the following extract from Wilmer Atkinson: 
*'The rotation that is wanted is the one that will 
rotate most fertility into the farm and most cash 
into the pocket. Differing soils, differing advan- 
tages or disadvantages of markets, differing de- 
grees of knowledge and experience in the growing 
and handling of certain crops are among the many 
elements that enter into the question. In any 
case, it must be the one that will yield the largest 
amount of sale product, with which to meet cur- 
rent expenses of business and living, and at the 
same time store increase of fertility in the land for 
future use." 

Just what this is appears to him a doubtful ques- 
tion, quite too intricate to be discussed, and on 
which it would be quite impracticable for one far- 
mer to advise another. On the contrary, we hold 
that accumulated experience has settled many 
points in a way not likely to be reversed, and 
affords much valuable aid in promoting the objects 

[47] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
on which all are agreed: immediate cash returns 
and future productiveness of the soil. 

The subject of the judicious succession of crops 
will be repeatedly reverted to, and illustrated by 
many practical examples, fully explained. These 
will be found in the cultural directions which 
accompany our descriptions of the different vege- 
tables, hereafter given- in this book. 

MANURES AND FERTILIZERS 

The provision, preparation and use of manures 
and fertilizers is one of the most important and 
diversified subjects in the whole business of mar- 
ket gardening; and to cover these points advan- 
tageously and economically involves a very con- 
siderable amount both of thought and labour. 

In my own practice, the dressing that is usually 
supplied per acre for growing the two or three 
crops which it is customary to obtain each year 
from garden land consists of from twenty to twenty- 
five cords of well-decomposed stable manure, put 
on broadcast. 

The manner of applying depends somewhat on 
the crop; and many special instructions will be 

[48] 



MANURES AND FERTILIZERS 
given in the cultural directions which are furnished 
with our descriptions of various vegetables. In 
general, however^ the manure is either spread in 
advance of the first ploughing, and then turned 
under, or is put on after the ground has been 
worked once, being then worked in with the second 
ploughing. The distribution of the manure is 
generally by the use of tip-carts, as there is no 
spreader now in use that will put on twenty cords 
per acre by once going over. 

During the summer, fall and winter, manure for 
the succeeding season is hauled out from the city. 
The sources of supply are the large stables, from 
which the accumulations of manure must be 
removed at brief intervals all through the year. 
It is usually piled in some place near where it is 
to be used. However, during the summer, it is 
my usual practice to put it into my cellars, and 
there let the hogs work it over until fall. This 
manure, so prepared, is, in my judgment, the best 
I have, and is used for growing cabbages as well 
as other vegetables; although many people do not 
consider hog manure desirable for that crop. 

In the beginning of the winter this is teamed out 
upon the fields where it is to be used; the cellar 

[49] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
is then filled again, and its contents remain in it 
until spring. All the manure which is drawn from 
the city in the summer and fall is overhauled in 
the early winter, and is again worked over in the 
spring before applying it to the land. It will then 
be quite fine, and fitted for nourishing any kind 
of crop. 

In distributing the manure, to put on twenty- 
five cords to the acre, reckoning four tip-cart loads 
to the cord, requires one hundred loads; making 
three piles to the load, we shall have piles twelve 
feet apart each way. In applying twenty cords 
to the acre, still reckoning four tip-cart loads to the 
cord and three piles to the load, we shall have piles 
twelve by fifteen feet apart. In applying fifteen 
cords to the acre, with loads and piles as before, 
we shall have piles sixteen by fifteen feet apart. 
This last-named amount is one which is seldom 
used in a market garden, except where one crop 
is to occupy the ground through the whole season. 
Where two crops are to be grown with one appli- 
cation of manure, the second amount is the one to 
be used; and where three are to be grown, use the 
first-named amount. 

It is very wasteful to expose manure unneces- 

[50] 



MANURES AND FERTILIZERS 

sarily to sun and \^indr^ Never spread manure 
one day to be ploughed in the next. 

It may not be amiss to mention, lest its impor- 
tance should be overlooked or underestimated, the 
great advantage of taking care, in spreading the 
manure, to do it evenly, and so that the heaps 
shall not be made to overlap. One heap is then 
made to join up to another, and the whole ground 
fares alike as regards the supply of manure. This 
seems obvious enough, and practical works on 
farming already have sought to enforce this view. 
But, as we read in one recently published, "there is 
more in this point than is generally supposed by 
farmers, who, in many cases, are careless and 
wasteful in this respect, giving too much in some 
places and too little in others. The consequence is 
uneven growth over the different parts of the field ; 
perhaps rank in some places, and in others a half- 
starved crop." 

The same writer suggests another important 
point in spreading, which is to break up the lumps 
and scatter the manure about in a fine state; unless 
this is done the field cannot be evenly fertilized. 
There is work about this, and some hired men 
will neglect and avoid it if they are permitted, but 

[51] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

it should not only be insisted upon, but looked after, 
and its faithful performance insured. Solid man- 
ure should never be allowed to ferment, either out- 
doors or under a cover, without the presence of 
absorbent material to take up the gases evolved 
during the process. This is the basis upon which 
the whole theory of composts and management 
of the compost heaps is admitted to rest. 

As already implied, it is necessary for green 
manure to undergo fermentation, in order to 
make its constituent elements available as plant 
food. Some good gardeners insist that all manure 
should be thoroughly fined before it goes upon 
the land; that none should be carried on that 
is not as fine as the soil upon which it is to be 
spread. It is undoubtedly advantageous to con- 
form to this rule as far as is reasonably possible. 
However, green manure may be applied in the 
fall and covered in with the fall ploughing, in 
which case the fermentation, when it occurs, 
takes place within the soil, making it mellow and 
rich. At this stage, and until the warm weather 
of the following spring induces fermentation, 
there can be no waste of the manure by soakage 
of water, because it is still insoluble. 

[52] 



MANURES AN©^ FERTILIZERS 
The case is different with fine compost, or with 
the ordinary pulverized commercial fertilizers, 
the benefit from which must be secured in a 
crop taken the same season, or it may never be 
obtained. 

In case three crops are to be grown and the 
third crop is to be cabbage or celery, the appli- 
cation of about one-half ton of some good commer- 
cial fertilizer to each acre would be very beneficial. 
It should be put on when the third crop has made 
about half its growth. In many similar cases, 
guano, superphosphate, bonedust and the like 
may be used in combination with the stable 
manure already in the soil, with excellent 
results. 

This use of commercial fertilizers in connection 
with stable manure has become quite common 
with market gardeners during the past few years. 
Some people even have an idea that, by the use 
of commercial fertilizers and without any other 
manuring, land can be kept in a proper state of 
fertility and condition to grow crops, year after 
year. Possibly this might at times be done, on 
some soils, and where only one crop each year 
was to be produced; but in the market gardens 

[53] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

where are grown several crops in a single season, 
maintaining a constant drain upon the nourish- 
ment afforded by the soil, such a plan would not 
be found to work well. 

One reason for this is that where two or three 
crops are to be grown during the season, the par- 
ticular kind of fertilizer which would be required 
by one crop might be of little or no value to the 
others. And moreover, it would be a very difficult 
matter to apply, from time to time, sufficient 
quantities of commercial fertilizers to carry all 
the crops to maturity. But stable manure answers 
well for all crops, and so, if desired (though not 
always necessary or convenient), enough can be 
applied at the time of ploughing, in the spring, 
to carry all the crops through the season. 

Green or composted stable manure, besides 
the increased store of plant food it directly provides 
for the growing crop, increasing its vigour, and, 
enabling it to strike deeper, has no doubt a bene- 
ficial effect upon the mechanical condition or 
texture of the soil. This is not the case with the 
commercial fertilizers, which, if used without 
the stable manure as a corrective, in course of 
time make the land sodden and heavy. Thus 

[54] 



MANURES AN;D FERTILIZERS 

it will be seen that, for Yarious reasons, commer- 
cial fertilizers cannot wholly or even largely take 
the place of stable manure, while they are never- 
theless much esteemed for use in combination 
with it. Since the use of commercial fertilizers 
has become general the price of stable manure 
has decreased; and while the convenience of 
procuring the former makes them more particu- 
larly convenient and valuable to the stock-feeding 
farmers (who are generally remote from the city), 
their introduction has also been of much benefit 
to the gardeners near the large cities, in thus 
reducing the cost of stable manure. The price 
would be even lower than it is, were it not for the 
fact that large quantities are now shipped by the 
car-load from the cities to distant points, a 
business which has grown extensively in volume 
the past few years. 

The old-fashioned privy-vault or cesspool is 
a source of supply once largely depended upon, 
but now only rarely met with; as the general 
extension of water-works to all the more compact 
centres of population, and even to isolated country 
houses, has caused a discontinuance of the earlier 
practice of allowing night-soil to accumulate, 

[55] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

and depending upon intermittent removal by 
carts. 

Still there is sometimes a case of this kind to 
be dealt with. The owner of the premises, if he 
has facilities, will generally prefer to compost his 
material on the spot, with a liberal proportion 
of light, dry loam, rendering it perfectly inoffensive. 
It is a highly stimulating fertilizer, and may be 
productive of excellent results if discreetly used. 
When the owner's object is simply to get rid of 
the contents of his vault — although formerly 
this was accomplished by bailing into wagons 
specially built for the work (similar to the offal- 
wagons now used for collecting kitchen refuse) — 
it is found more convenient to use an ordinary 
(tight-built) cart or wagon; in this, earth, chopped 
straw, ashes, street sweepings or any other con- 
venient absorbents are conveyed to the spot. 
With earth and ashes a basin-shaped receptacle 
is formed on the ground adjacent to the cesspool, 
keeping a reserve at hand of absorbent material 
to be added by degrees as the work progresses. 
The vault is then bailed out into the space so 
provided, and, its contents being mixed with a 
due proportion of absorbents, and, finally, the 

[56] 



MANURES AND ^RTILIZERS 

earth around the edges being^w:orked in, the whole 
mass is then ready to be loaded and transported. 

By this method the material is made convenient 
to handle, and as little disagreeable as ordinary 
manure from the barnyard. In England and on 
the Continent, by use of the long straw, judiciously 
disposed during the loading, the mixed material 
above described is built up into a stack reaching 
two or three feet high, above the sides of the wagon 
or cart, and so great loads of it are carried many 
miles without loss. The straw is spread so that 
half of its length projects over the sides or ends 
of the load, and in layers — the inner ends of the 
straw being covered and held fast by the alternate 
layers of compost — and the outer ends are then 
bent upward and backward, and similarly confined. 
Racks for sides and ends are convenient but 
when the load is carefully put together may be 
dispensed with. 

Wood ashes, where they can be obtained, form 
one of the best fertilizers, and when unleached are 
generally richer in potash (which is one of the most 
important elements) than most commercial fer- 
tilizers. From the fact that ashes are almost 
entirely lacking in nitrogen, it is not advisable to 

[57] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

rely on them alone and continuously, year after 
year; but if applied about once in three years, 
with stable manure put on in the meantime, they 
will be found of great value. For cabbage and 
onions, which require a very large amount of 
potash, ashes are especially suitable. 

For manuring the hill, which is in many cases 
highly advantageous, it is ordinarily preferred to 
use guano, superphosphates, and the like, because 
of the facility with which they can be put in ; care 
being always taken to stir them in well, so that 
the sprouting seeds shall escape absolute contact 
with the unmixed fertilizer — which would be 
destructive. 

Good, ripe, well-worked compost is also 
employed; often made from materials specially 
purchased to mix up (like fish compost, made 
where fish- waste is readily procurable), but also 
produced, under judicious management, from 
everything in the shape of decomposable material 
that can be gathered up about the place. And 
if due attention is given to collecting together all 
waste material — litter, leaves, weeds and the 
like — and stacking them in alternate layers with 
fresh loam, or road-scrapings, the result will be 

[58] 



MANURES AND FERTILIZERS 




a handsome lot of uniform, mi^ compost. It 
should always be built up in layers, each layer 
spread out so as to cover the preceding layer 
uniformly; which will secure compost of even 
quality. It should be protected from washing 
or leaching by a rough covering of boards, so 
placed as to shed the rains. 

Occasional layers of fresh dung, doses of lime 
and ashes, and drenching the mass from time to 
time with liquid manure, will produce the proper 
fermentation. There are innumerable ways of 
increasing the bulk and enhancing the quality 
of the compost heap, which can best be mastered 
by the study of any good manual on the subject; 
and we do not aim here at superseding any of 
these treatises. Our object is mainly to call 
attention to this means of utilizing all manner 
of decomposable trash, and converting it into 
valuable plant food. There is an old saying, 
that ''anything that grows in one summer will 
decay before the next"; and this hint may be 
profitable as a guide in collecting vegetable matter 
for the compost heap. 

The presence of the loam, or loamy mixtures, 
in the heap is quite important. It has been said 

[59] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

that where sods, muck and weeds form a part 
of the mass, it is not alone the vegetable matter 
which has been brought in that constitutes a 
material addition; perhaps it is not even the 
principal one. There is always considerable earth 
adhering. *'The fermentation, induced by the 
dung and liquid manure and the action of the 
lime or ashes added, works upon the earth adhering 
to the roots and forming a considerable part 
both of sods and muck ; and develops an admirable 
quality of plant food." Hence this element of 
the compost heap, which is generally overlooked 
as unimportant, should never be wanting — 
instead of diluting, it in reality reinforces the 
other manurial elements. 

Liquid manure is seldom at hand in large 
quantities, and not much advance has been made 
in using it directly upon the land under crop. 
When this is done, it should be in a very diluted 
state. Even if so much diluted that it seems to 
run perfectly clear, it may still be found suflSciently 
strong; if too strong its use would be injurious 
rather than helpful, and might often destroy a 
crop entirely. There is far more danger of getting 
it too strong than of making it too weak. It may 

[60] 



MANURES AND FERTH^ERS 

be doubted, indeed, whether the diluting element, 
water, is not, at least, an equal cause of the fertility 
which sometimes attends its use, when directly 
applied. The result either of v\^atering or liquid 
manuring will be less favourable in a cool season 
than a hot one; owing to the reduction of tem- 
perature occasioned by wet applications to the soil. 

A way of procuring liquid manure — convenient 
when a small quantity only is required — is to 
leach solid stable manure as ashes are leached for 
obtaining lye. For special results, solutions of 
specific commercial fertilizers are valuable, and 
are easily made. For instance, liquid nitrate of 
soda is obtained by dissolving one pound of the 
nitrate in twelve gallons of water. It is beneficial 
to all garden crops, though particularly recom- 
mended for grass plats — but its chief value to the 
vegetable grower is as a destroyer of slugs and 
other garden pests. 

The most valuable liquid manure is, however, 
the urine of stabled animals, which when not 
allowed to run to waste is ordinarily taken up by 
absorbents kept under the animals, in the stalls 
or in the cellar beneath them. Sometimes, how- 
ever, it is conducted by natural flow in gutters and 

[61] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

pipes to a tank from which it may be pumped. It 
is very valuable, more so than the solid excrement 
from the same animals; and more effectual means 
of saving and applying it than those now generally 
practised will doubtless soon come into use. In 
applying it directly to the soil amongst growing 
plants it requires, as already said, to be greatly 
diluted. Small amounts pumped at intervals over 
the compost heap promote fermentation. 

In purchasing manure, preference should be 
given to that of grain-fed animals. The value of 
all animal excrement depends more on the char- 
acter of the food consumed than on the kind of 
animal. But it is convenient to know the average 
composition of the solid droppings of different 
animals, and the following data have once been 
published in the Gardener's Monthly. The excre- 
ment standing highest in value is sheep dung (this 
not being obtainable in our vicinity, we give its 
analysis merely for comparison). It contains 
in 100 parts, of water, 68.71 ; azotized matter, 23.16; 
saline, 8.13. Horse manure consists of water, 
75.31; geine, or organic matter, 20.67; salts, 4.02. 
(The geine is composed of — carbon, 9.56; hydro- 
gen, 1.26; oxygen, 9.31; and nitrogen, 0.54.) Cow 

[62] 



MANURES AND FERTILIZERS 

manure contains, geine, 15.45; salts, 0.95; water, 
83.60. Contrary to the general idea, that of the 
horse outranks that of the cow. 

The list of materials available to the gardener 
and cultivator for enriching the soil comprises 
the following principal items: the animal manures 
(like those whose analysis has been given), fish, 
bones of animals, lime, gypsum, wood ashes, com- 
mon salt, soot, peat-earth, seaweeds, malt dust, 
rape-cake and linseed-cake, green succulent plants, 
and commercial fertilizers. 

Much has recently been added to the stock of 
general information on the nature and action of 
manures. All the more is the subject one which 
demands constant study and reflection on the part 
of the practical cultivator. In view of the great 
variety of conditions presenting themselves, it 
often seems next to impossible for him to select 
from the mass of available matter the points likely 
to be of assistance to him. Yet by diligent read- 
ing, and carefully discriminating what he reads, 
he will soon begin to feel the benefit of combining 
the experience of others with that which he gains 
for himself, and will find that the former is by far 
the less costly of the two. On this general topic of 

[63] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

manures many well-written works may be found 
in most libraries. We recommend for reading, 
once and again, till its contents become thoroughly 
familiar, Harris's ** Talks on Manures," published 
a number of years ago. Its style is varied and 
interesting, and the matter is highly instructive. 
Every farmer should use this, or some equivalent 
book, as a constant reference and guide in pro- 
viding and applying manures; and there is no 
other book that we know of which presents this 
subject so clearly and intelligibly, and at the same 
time in such an interesting manner — almost every 
page is as readable as a story. 

APPLICATION OF MANURES 

Further general suggestions on this subject 
might seem to some almost unnecessary, but, 
nevertheless, this is an important part of market- 
garden work, and well worthy of attentive study. 
As garden crops, to be of marketable quality, 
require to be grown quickly, it is plainly requisite 
that the land be brought into the best possible 
condition to begin with, and then that the arti- 
ficial fertilizers or further manurings, whatever 

[64] 



APPLICATION OF MANURES 

they may be, should be applied m such a way 
that the growing crops can readily reach and take 
up this supplementary nourishment. 

In what has been said on Preparation of the Soil, 
we have included many detailed directions for 
applying manures to the soil, and amongst them 
have recommended having the land ploughed 
once in advance of the first application of the 
manure. This gives a chance for the manure 
(especially if it is a little coarse) to be worked into 
the soil more thoroughly by the second ploughing 
than it otherwise would. However, except in 
comparatively few instances, the presence of coarse 
manure is a serious impediment and disadvantage 
in the process of cultivation. It should be in a 
fine state, reduced to this condition by slowly con- 
ducted previous fermentation, and should be very 
thoroughly intermixed with the soil. 

Of course, as already said, it is very important 
that market-garden crops be grown quickly, and 
right here is the reason why quick-growing crops 
require more manure than others that take a whole 
season to complete their growth; it is because the 
latter have more time in which to feel about and 
collect their necessary nourishment from the soil 

[65] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

and atmosphere; but the former must have their 
food in abundance, and it must be placed within 
easy reach of the feeding roots, or there will be a 
most decided shortage in the result. 

There are great differences in the requirements 
of the various crops, and no set rule can be given 
that will be adapted for regulating the quantity of 
manure to be applied to all crops and on all soils. 
Some specific instructions for special cases appear 
in the following pages. 

Where but one crop per year is to be taken from 
land which is already in fairly good condition, ten 
or twelve cords per acre of well-decomposed man- 
ure would be considered, ordinarily, as a sufficient 
supply; but on land to be double-cropped, twenty 
cords would be none too much. This should be 
ploughed in lightly, so as to be left near the surface. 

If the first ploughing should be done in the fall, 
the manure can be applied then, and remain lying 
out on the surface until spring, as it does not lose 
by so doing. During a dry season, unless the 
land can be properly irrigated or watered, a crop 
will manifestly be unable to draw the proper 
amount of nourishment from the soil, since all 
plant food of every description has to be not 

[66] 



APPLICATION OF MANURES 

merely in a soluble form but actually in solution 
before it can be taken up and assimilated by the 
plants. For this reason it is now felt necessary, 
in view of the continually recurring droughts, to 
provide effectual means of irrigation. 

Sometimes, however, a crop comes to a stand- 
still by reason of having exhausted all the fertilizing 
matter contained in the soil of a sort available to 
its requirements; and in such instances the trained 
eye of the practical gardener can usually detect 
what is lacking for the crop; and he may supply 
the need by an application of some specific com- 
mercial fertilizer. It would be difficult to explain 
to a wholly inexperienced person just how to detect 
the wants of the crops, but a little acquaintance 
with their normal habits of growth will speedily 
teach one what one needs to observe. 

It is imperative, even in an economical view, 
where a crop is checked in growth from want of 
fertilizing matter, that some quick-acting fertilizer 
be promptly applied, for upon the question of a 
few dollars' expenditure at this crisis may depend 
all the difference between a crop and no crop. 
Whenever the need of such an application occurs, 
it is better to sow the fertilizer broadcast than to 

[67] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
place it directly on the hill and about the plant; and 
the labour of applying it is less. Liquid manure 
may be applied by the process already described 
for irrigating, in a furrow opened about a foot 
from the row, more or less, according to the 
growth the plants have made. 



[68] 



CHAPTER III 

SELECTION OF SEEDS THEIR VITALITY — SEED 

GROWING — SOWING THE SEED CULTIVATION 

OF CROPS — CONSTRUCTION AND CARE OF HOT- 
BEDS — GARDENING IN HOT-HOUSES — GATH- 
ERING CROPS — CAPITAL AND LABOUR INVOLVED 

r ERHAPS we might truthfully say that the most 
important of all points in gardening is the right 
selection of seeds; for without good seed the care 
and expense devoted to selecting and fitting the 
land, or procuring and using implements, fer- 
tilizers, etc., is all bestowed in vain. 

By good seed, we not only mean such as will 
germinate properly, but such as is true to name, 
and of the very best selected strains. And it is 
proper in this connection to say that no one need 
expect to get seed such as we have spoken of at 
such absurdly low prices as much cheap stuff 
is sold for. Better to pay twice the market price 
for an article that is first-class in every respect than 
have poor trash, even if it is to be had as a gift. 

[69] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
Always look for quality first ; and when satisfied 
in this respect, pay the price if it is in any wise 
reasonable; for you must remember that these 
extra strains have cost an amount of labour and 
expense in growing them largely beyond that 
required by common-grow^n stock. 

Of course, as we have already said, it is always 
important, and in some degree essential, that 
none but the best seed be used ; but with some crops 
this is most especially necessary, and a neglect will 
result in the most disastrous kind of a failure. 
Take, for instance, either cabbage, cauliflower or 
celery. These are vegetables w ith regard to which 
the greatest care has to be exercised to procure 
the proper kind of seed stock. Also with onions, 
lettuce and cucumbers this is no less important. 

It may be well to add, while on this point, that 
there is more than one advantage in purchasing 
your seed supply early in the season, and before 
the spring rush comes on. By so doing you are 
enabled to get the best that there is in stock, as the 
supplies have not then been greatly drawn upon; 
and by attending to the matter before every one 
is driven with orders you have a better chance to 
make your selections, and of avoiding mistakes. 

[70] 



VITALITY OF SEEDS 

It is quite important, unless you can rely abso- 
lutely upon the dealer from whom you purchase, 
to employ some means of testing the quality of 
seeds. Some have recommended as the speediest 
way, though not altogether a sure one, putting 
a few on top of a hot stove; such as are good 
will crack like corn in parching; the bad will 
burn without noise and with very little motion. 
A more reliable way is to place a little cotton-wool 
or moss in a tumbler containing water, and let it 
stand in a warm room while the experiment is in 
progress. Place the seeds to be tested on the wool or 
moss so arranged, and they will germinate sooner 
than they would in ordinary planting. The propor- 
tion of bad seed — that is, of seed which has lost 
its vitality — will be recognized in this way; but as 
regards the quality of the strain and whether they 
are true to name, there can be no proof or guarantee 
in advance of the crop they bring, except procuring 
them from a dealer who is recognized as reliable, 
and who knows what he is selling. 

VITALITY OF SEEDS 

As regards the period for which seeds may be 
kept without destroying or seriously impairing 

[71] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

their vitality: this varies with different seeds. 
Opinion varies also as to the time which may be 
assigned as the limit in the case of each separate 
kind. It is ordinarily thought, and perhaps it 
is safest to hold as a general rule, that the seeds 
which mature in one season are the best for next 
year's planting. However, seeds of good original 
vitality may be expected to germinate freely if 
properly cared for, at periods after maturity 
not greater than shown in the table on the following 
page. 

We have to remark here that the duration of 
the germinating power of seeds depends very 
materially upon the circumstances under which 
they have been harvested and kept. Nothing 
has a greater tendency to destroy it than the 
influence of dampness and heat; owing to which 
causes it often occurs that good seed, purchased 
from dealers in whom reliance can be placed, 
and kept not a great while on hand, fails to come 
up. Thus far no better method is known for 
keeping seeds in good condition till wanted than 
putting them in linen bags and storing in a dry, 
moderately cool, and well-ventilated place. 

Any seeds, of which the germinating power 
[72] 



VITALITY OF SEEDS 

continues active for five years, on an average, 
do not entirely lose it after the lapse of ten years, 
or more. In this class are included most of the 
seeds sown in the market garden — those which 
possess a less degree of vitality are corn, dande- 
lion, leek, onion, okra, peas, parsnip, parsley, rad- 
ish, salsify and spinach. 

LENGTH OF TIME FOR WHICH DIFFER- 
ENT SEEDS RETAIN THEIR VITALITY 



Artichoke . 


5 


years. 


Kohl-rabi 


. 7 


years 


Asparagus . 


4 




Leek . 


. 2 




Beans . 


5 




Lettuce 


. 5 




Beets . . . 


5 




Melon 


7 




Broccoli 


5 




Onion . 


2 




Brussels Sprouts 


7 




Okra 


. 3 




Cabbage 


7 




Peas 


. 4 




Carrot . 


5 




Parsnip 


1 




Cauliflower 


7 




Pumpkin 


7 




Celery 


8 




Parsley 


3 




Corn 


2 




Radish 


3 




Cucumber . 


12 




Salsify 


2 




Dandelion . 


3 




Spinach 


. 3 




Egg-plant . 


7 




Squash 


. 7 




Endive 


9 




Tomato 


. 5 




Kale . . . 


5 




Turnip 


5 





The general rule above suggested, giving prefer- 
ence to last year's seed, has some exceptions. 

[ 73 ] \ 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

Plants such as melons, cucumbers and squashes 
(though they grow vines most vigorously from 
fresh seeds) are thought to set and mature their 
fruit better when grown from that which is 
older. Beans are included by some in the same 
category. 

SEED GROWING 

Every one who makes market gardening a 
business is obliged to raise at least a portion of 
the seed which he plants; and in order to do this 
successfully, as regards its vigour and productive- 
ness, and so as to obtain the choicest of each kind, 
great pains must be taken in the selection and 
care of the seed stocks. 

In selecting the stocks from which the seed is 
to be saved, the very best of the season should 
always be taken. Particular rows, or even individ- 
ual plants in different parts of the field, must be 
marked and reserved for the purpose; and although 
this is very expensive and tedious it is the only 
safe and satisfactory way. By so doing the stock 
is constantly improving year by year; while, 
if the product of the whole field is saved for seed, 

[74] 



SEED GROWING 

as is done by many seed growers, there must be 
more or less deterioration. 

Owing to the differences in climate, some kinds 
of seeds can be grown to much better advantage 
in localities other than our own; and, although 
most of the seeds which are planted in our market 
gardens can be grown successfully in America, 
there are a few among these which can be raised 
to far better advantage in foreign countries. 
No doubt, one reason for this is that these countries 
enjoy a climate more equable than ours — a 
condition which is more favourable for all crops, 
and renders the results of cultivation much more 
reliable. 

The cauliflower, in particular, has a seed which 
cannot be grown with any certainty in this country ; 
while foreign growers are almost as certain of 
a crop as we are with cabbage. 

Although, in the case of many of the seeds 
which are produced by market gardeners, through 
careful selection, in the manner described, one 
could often purchase a supply from dealers for 
one-half what it costs to produce it one's self, the 
quality of one's own selected stock may be more 
than enough better to make up the difference in 

[75] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

cost. I have raised vegetables in such large 
quantities that I have been induced to grow my 
own seed, to a great extent, and, having often had, 
a surplus, have supplied my neighbours ; and my 
trade in seeds, commencing in this way, con- 
stantly increased from the beginning, until I was 
finally obliged to open a seed store in the city, 
for the convenience of my many customers. 

Of course, I do not by any means profess to 
grow all the seeds I catalogue ; but there are several 
kinds which I can and do grow very successfully, 
and which I have, by years of careful selection, 
greatly improved. Of these seeds I grow all that 
I sell; and, in order to distinguish them from the 
common strains, I have designated them as 
** Arlington-grown" seeds. I do not profess to 
sell these seeds at any such low prices as seeds 
of the same varieties can often be bought for, 
elsewhere, from dealers who buy up their stock here 
and there, of any one from whom they can purchase 
cheapest. Any one who will give the matter 
a moment's thought will see that I cannot compete 
in price with these cheap grades of seeds. 

It is a false view of economy that leads any one 
to purchase cheap seed — for a few dollars saved 

[76] 




TESTlXCi SEEDS FOR VITALITY 




SEEDLINGS OF CUCL'MBEK PKIC KED OUT FROM THE SEED 
BED. IN A week's TIME THESE WILL BE READY TO POT 




DIGGING OVER HOTBED AFTER HEAT IS PUT IN, PREPAR- 
ATORY TO SETTING OUT CARROTS AND RADISHES 





PULLING RADISHES FUK MARKET 



SOWING THE SEED 

in the beginning may make a shortage of one-half, 
or more, in the crop. I have always made it a 
practice when purchasing seed for my own use 
(of such varieties as I do not raise, and so have 
been obliged to buy), to secure the best, regard- 
less of cost, and have always found this to pay. 
Quality, not price, is the chief point to look to in 
purchasing seed. 

The same rule applies to the case of the seed 
grower producing seeds either for his own use or 
for sale — the expense of the process must be 
disregarded, and the excellence of the product 
made the prime consideration. All seeds should 
be gathered as soon as they mature — for expos- 
ure to the weather is injurious to their power of 
vegetating when planted. They should be dried 
in the shade, and in a warm place, but not where 
they will be affected by the direct heat of the fire. 

SOWING THE SEED 

In the preparatory stages of the work of raising 
a crop, all the points we have included above are 
of vital importance and need close attention. 
The successful germination of the seed, no matter 

[77] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

how carefully the sowing may be done, must 
depend largely upon the condition of the ground. 
But, on the other hand, it is no less true that, 
unless the seed is carefully and judiciously placed 
in the ground, and properly covered, the crop 
cannot get a good start, no matter how well 
the land has been prepared or how good the 
seed is. 

It is far better, when possible, to put seed into 
freshly prepared soil, as it is sure to get a better 
start than on land which has been turned over 
long enough to have become crusty and lumpy 
on the surface. Again, it is preferable, when 
possible, to sow seed immediately after a rain 
rather than just before it comes; since, in the case 
of the finer seeds, more especially, the crust which 
begins to form on all garden soils immediately 
after a rain will partly shut out the air and will 
tend to prevent free germination. Where one 
encounters the misfortune of a heavy fall of rain 
occurring just after the planting of a field or bed, it 
will be well to go over the ground with rakes, 
and break the crust; and such treatment may 
make a difference of fifty per cent, in the stand 
obtained. 

[78] 



SOWING THE SEED 

With seed having a thick husk, like squash, 
cucumber, or melon, it is obviously of peculiar 
importance that the soil be in just the right con- 
dition — in order to be sure that sufficient mois- 
ture and air may reach the seed — much more 
than with thin-husked kinds that germinate 
quickly, like cabbage, turnip and radish; 
but, still, even these finer seeds need the most 
vigilant attention and the utmost care that can 
be given in sov^ing them, to secure the best 
results. 

In sowing the seed of beets, squashes, and 
parsnips, and also peas, beans and all similar 
seeds, it is necessary also to plant deeper 
than the finer seeds, from the fact that the husk 
is thicker, and it requires more moisture to cause 
germination. 

Most of the finer seeds are sown by machine, at 
different distances apart, and likewise at different 
depths, varying, according to the kind, from one- 
fourth of an inch to one inch; being governed 
partly by the size of the seed, and also by the sea- 
son of the year. Seed put in during the hot, dry 
weather of summer must, for obvious reasons, be 
covered a little deeper than early in spring, when 

[79] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

the ground is moist enough for their speedy 
germination, even if very near the surface. 

CULTIVATION OF CROPS 

After the seed that we have sown has come up, 
the frequent stirring of the soil will prove bene- 
ficial. It is not generally necessary to caution any 
one against stirring the soil too frequently ; still this 
may, not impossibly, be sometimes overdone, at 
least as regarded from a financial point of view. 

Following a rain, and after the land is dried suffi- 
ciently to be in good working condition, is the best 
possible time for giving the soil a thorough stirring; 
for then it will be left in a fresh, lively condition, 
that will give the growing crop a surprising start. 

It may be well to note here that it is not profitable 
to stir the soil when it is too wet, or to hoe crops 
when they are dripping with water, as some people 
do; even cabbages, celery, and turnips are not 
benefited, if indeed they escape serious injury, 
under such treatment. 

In cultivating crops of any description, it is 
necessary to bear in mind that, when they are young 
and growing rapidly, it will be proper to cultivate 

[80] 



CULTIVATION OF CROPS 

deeper and nearer to the plants than at a later stage, 
when growth is not so rapid. At the later stage, such 
active cultivation would have a tendency to ripen 
off the crop rather than promote its growth. 

During a dry season, or a period of extended 
drought, the more frequently the soil is stirred 
around a growing crop the better; as the loosening 
up of the surface soil will draw the moisture from 
below upward, within reach of the feeding roots 
of the plants, and thus enable them to absorb it. 

In the case of any crop planted in rows, it is a 
good plan to stir the soil and cut down the weeds, 
immediately after the plants come up, in the 
following manner: Take an ordinary A-harrow 
and remove the front tooth ; then drive along each 
row of plants, keeping it exactly between the 
horses and central to the harrow. This harrow- 
ing will not disturb them in the least, and just at 
this stage will promote their growth surprisingly. 
The weeds of course will not be exterminated 
entirely, but their first early growth will be effect- 
ually destroyed, and they will more easily be kept 
under during the rest of the season. 

Parasitic insects and vegetable parasites (to 
which latter class belong smut, blight, mildew, 

[81] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

etc.) cause heavy losses and disappointments to 
all cultivators of the land both on farms and in 
gardens. The more thrifty the habit and con- 
dition of the plants, the less will they be liable to 
such ravages. Thorough and constant cultivation 
disturbs and destroys the larvae, reinforces the 
plant, and enables it to withstand parasitic attacks, 
both animal and vegetable, to good advantage. 
Further suggestions on this topic scarcely belong 
to this chapter, but will be given later in the work. 

CONSTRUCTION OF HOT-BEDS 

For a location, a spot facing the south, with a 
slope in that direction, is the most desirable. After 
the location has been selected, a fence should be 
erected six feet high, and of the length which the 
bed is to be, to serve as a protection from the wind, 
and as a support for mats and shutters. For 
convenience, the fence or wind-break should 
slant back a little from the bottom — about one 
foot: it will then form a better support for mats 
and shutters when leaned against it, and will be 
much more convenient in working around the beds. 

The first plank should be set about three and a 

[82] 



SUPPLYING THE HEAT 

half feet from the base of the fence, and should 
be two inches thick by twelve inches. The front 
plank should be two inches narrower. Place 
the back plank two and a half inches above the 
ground, and hold in place by driving stakes at 
the end and middle. Continue the planking in 
this manner until the desired length is reached. 
The stakes should, of course, be nailed to the 
planks. Place the front plank six feet from the 
first, and sink into the ground so that the upper 
edge will be five inches lower than the top of the 
first, which makes a slant of five inches to carry 
off the water. Continue this the same length as 
the first, and you will then have a bed six feet wide 
and of the desired length. Shovel out the loam 
sufficient to bank the planks on the outside about 
half the height, putting in spreaders to keep from 
crowding in. Let the ground freeze about three 
inches deep, then cover the banking with leaves 
or litter to keep out the frost. 

SUPPLYING THE HEAT 

If the bed is for lettuce, throw out the loam 
on the back of the bed to the depth of twenty- 

[83] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

four inches from the upper edge of the plank, and 
twenty-two inches in front, and of the length 
required, so as to make room for the manure. 
Prepare the required heat by selecting moderately 
coarse horse manure four or five days before using, 
turning it once or twice. A horse-cart-load con- 
taining about thirty-six feet is sufficient for a bed 
six feet square, or for two sashes, the depth of the 
manure being one foot. This should be trodden 
down, and made smooth on top; then put in the 
loam from under the next two sashes, cover to 
the depth of eight inches, and continue in this 
manner as far as required; then bring the loam 
which was taken from the first two sashes, and 
put it under the last, which completes the bed. 

For heating material, various articles are some- 
times used, such as hop waste from the breweries, 
cotton waste, etc.; but where fresh horse manure 
can be obtained at anything like reasonable rates, 
it is far better, and, all things considered, is 
actually more economical; as the manure can, 
of course, be used on the land after it has served 
its purpose in the beds; and it is then, as ordinarily 
considered, worth half the original cost. Then, 
too, where manure is used the ammonia which 

[84] 



SUPPLYING THE HEAT 

escapes during the heating process is of great 
benefit to the growing crops, while from other 
material there is no such benefit — substantially 
nothing but the heat is derived. Steam has been 
applied to hot-beds, but with no good results as 
yet. 

Radishes require less heat than lettuce, just 
as a crop of young cauliflower or cabbage requires 
less heat than tomatoes, egg-plants, or others of 
a tropical nature. For radishes, a cart-load of 
manure, containing thirty-six feet, would be suffi- 
cient for nine feet of bed, or three sashes, and 
should be covered with one foot of loam. For 
forcing cucumbers more heat is required than for 
lettuce according to the season. In any case, 
the bed should stand a day after it is prepared, 
to allow the soil to heat through; it is then ready 
for seeds or plants. 

The quantity of heating material to be used 
will not however, depend entirely upon the crop 
to be grown; we must also take into account the 
season of the year when it is to be started. With 
lettuce, for instance : if the crop w ere to be planted 
in December, a foot of fresh manure would be 
necessary; while in February or March one-half 

[85] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

that quantity would be sufficient. But for such 
tropical-natured plants as tomatoes, cucumbers, 
or egg-plants, a foot of heating material would be 
none too much at any season. 

A crop of radishes would not perhaps require 
quite as much heat as lettuce during the winter 
months; still it would need about the quantity 
stated to keep the bed properly warm. If started 
in March, no strong bottom heat would be required, 
and they will succeed well on second heat, such as 
is in a bed from which a crop of lettuce or other 
vegetables has just been removed. In this case 
the crop will often do better than when sown in 
a freshly made bed, as in the latter the ammonia, 
which new heating material always throws out, 
would have a tendency to drive the crop too much to 
tops; which is not what is wanted with root crops. 

The continuous care of hot-beds after the crop 
has been started forms one of the most important 
branches of work in the market garden. The 
beds require to be covered and uncovered every 
day, and constant attendance and vigilance are 
necessary to maintain the proper temperature. 
The amount of heat to be aimed at, as we have 
already said, depends upon the crop. 

[86] 



SUPPLYING THE HEAT 

Lettuce beds, during the winter months, should 
be kept at a temperature ranging from 50 degrees 
to 70 degrees. For radishes it may range from 
40 degrees to 60 degrees ; while for cucumbers and 
tomatoes it must range decidedly higher, say from 
70 degrees to 90 degrees, or even 100 degrees. 

In the spring of the year, it is quite a serious 
task for a man to take charge of, say, 1,000 sashes, 
with half a dozen different crops under them. He 
must, of course, have a thorough understanding of 
their requirements in respect to heat, moisture 
and a variety of other conditions. He must be 
a person of considerable experience or he cannot 
be qualified to undertake the entire management 
of crops so cultivated. It will be found that much 
depends on their receiving the right care always 
just at the right time. 

If the first crop is started in November or Decem- 
ber, and the beds are properly handled, three and 
sometimes even four crops may be taken from the 
glass each season. In regard to the amount of 
produce that can be taken off, per sash, each 
season, of course much depends on skilful manage- 
ment; but if the beds are properly attended to 
(w^here three crops are grown) the results might, 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

ordinarily, be expected to be about as follows: 
say for the first crop, $2.50; for the second, $2.00; 
and the third, $1.50; making a total of $6.00 per 
sash. These figures are, of course, often exceeded, 
and even doubled ; but we are now giving estimates 
of a result as near an average as possible. 

The first crop embraced in the foregoing estimate 
would be lettuce, four dozen to each sash, at 62Jc. 
per dozen. The next, either lettuce or radishes; 
the third, cucumbers, which would be put under 
the glass about the first of April and begin to 
bear June 1st. The latter crop varies in price 
according to the season, some years averaging 
as high as three dollars per sash; but for a large 
quantity, a cash return amounting to a dollar 
and a half per sash would be considered by most 
growers as reasonably good. 

GARDENING IN HOT-HOUSES 

Sixty years ago very little growing was done 
under glass; and if any one had as many as one 
hundred sash he was considered quite an extensive 
market gardener. But when early vegetables 
began to be grown in the South and sent into our 

[88] 



GARDENING IN HOTHOUSES 

market, some forty years ago, our gardeners began 
to increase their use of sash; and some thirty 
years ago hot-houses were put into service. These 
have gradually become more and more relied 
upon in the growing of plants and vegetables, 
until now a market gardener who has no hot-house 
is considered far behind the times. There are even 
now many thousands of sashes used every spring for 
covering hot-beds ; but the houses are much easier of 
management, and with the use of either steam 
heat or hot-water pipes nearly all the kinds of 
vegetables that can be forced are grown in houses. 

There are many advantages secured by this 
method of culture. We can employ our men the 
whole season and are thereby enabled to procure 
better help; and we have something to carry to 
market the whole season through. Besides, the 
houses are a great help in running the sash, as 
the plants can all be started in the houses and 
transplanted, no matter what the weather may 
happen to be. 

One must have considerable intelligence and 
skill to run a number of houses together with 
several thousand sash; and a market gardener 
of to-day must understand many different matters. 

[89] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

He must be an engineer, a machinist, a carpenter, 
a chemist, a botanist and a horticulturist. It will 
cost him time and study to make himself familiar 
with all he has to look after. It will take him all 
of five years' time, and he must show himself an 
able scholar, even then. 

In hot-houses, the temperature required being 
attained by the use of pipes conveying steam or 
hot water, relatively a small amount of manure 
will be requisite as compared with that required 
to create and maintain heat in beds, by the process 
of fermentation. 

It requires a fifty-horse-power boiler to heat one 
hundred thousand cubic feet of space to a tem- 
perature of 60 degrees when the outside air is at 
zero Fahrenheit. It takes one ton of coal for 
every five hundred cubic feet of space to heat at 
same temperature and carry through the season 
from November 1st to the 1st of May, and there 
must be provided one foot in length of one-and-a- 
quarter-inch steam pipe for every twenty cubic 
feet of space to heat the pipes to be equally dis- 
tributed. With the use of hot water instead of 
steam, it takes a four-inch pipe to do the same 
amount of heating that is done by the one-and-a- 

[90] 



GATHERING THE CROPS 
quarter-inch steam pipe; and if the weather comes 
oflf warm in the morning the pipes of hot water 
will remain hot; while steam heat can be imme- 
diately shut off and can be let on again at any 
moment. With water it takes from one to two 
hours to get the pipes warm again after being 
cooled off.* 

GATHERING THE CROPS 

In market gardening the term ** harvest" cannot 
be applied as it was in olden times to the gathering 
of the grain and other crops in the fall of the year. 
Under modern usages there is no real season of 
harvesting, but, on the contrary, the *' seed-time 
and harvest" seasons, both of them, extend the 
whole year round. 

Much experience is required to enable one to 
know just when to harvest market-garden crops, 
and this does not always or solely depend on their 
stage of maturity. The market gardener of to-day 
would say that the time to harvest a crop is when 
it will bring the most money. Although, of course, 
there are some vegetables that cannot be gathered 

*Consult Chapter Seven. 

[91] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

until they are ripe, as otherwise they are practically 
worthless — such as melons, celery and cauli- 
flower, which it would be folly to touch until they 
had reached maturity — yet also there are some, 
like beets, lettuce, spinach, etc., which, after 
reaching a certain early stage of growth, can be 
marketed readily, and to profit. 

In crops that are to be marketed when young 
and tender, it is plainly of vital importance to have 
experienced hands for the work, as such articles are 
very easily injured and rendered unsaleable by care- 
less handling and packing for transportation. 

The same considerations, though perhaps less 
obviously, are equally important in the case of 
vegetables that are to be stored for the winter. 
These also should be harvested and handled with 
care, and placed in storage only when dry or in 
just the right condition, for their keeping qualities 
must largely depend on their treatment at this time. 

AMOUNTS OF CAPITAL AND LABOUR 
REQUIRED 

Among gardeners, opinions vary as to the area 
that an individual may wisely include in his plans. 

[92] 



CAPITAL AND LABOUR REQUIRED 

Many have an idea that five acres of land will be 
enough; others put it at ten; while it is known 
that some cultivate a hundred acres or more at a 
profit. The amount of capital required varies, 
to some extent, with the amount of land cultivated, 
but not in a uniform proportion; while a larger 
variation still will result from the greater or less 
provision we may choose to make in the matter 
of hot-houses. Not including these in the scheme 
of cultivation, and on the presumption that we 
are to do such forcing only as can be done in hot- 
beds, we may fix approximate amounts as follows : 

While it might require about $3,000 with the 
labour of three men and two horses, to properly 
handle two acres, we estimate that there would be 
needed about $5,000, six men, and three horses for 
ten acres; and that $20,000, forty men, and twenty 
horses would be sufficient for one hundred acres. 

One of the largest and most indispensable 
items of original outlay is in providing the sashes; 
these cost, with the requisite mats and shutters 
to go with them, about $4.00 each, of which about 
$2.50 is paid for the sash, and the balance for 
mats and shutters to correspond. But in a 
scheme combining, not only hot-bed and out-door 

[93] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

cultivation, but forcing-houses as well, the possible 
outlay is, of course, almost unlimited. 

A very important item of annual outlay is the 
supply of stable manure. This will cost, at 
present prices, delivered on the place, from $4 to 
$7 per cord, according to distance from the city 
and the facilities for obtaining and transporting it. 

The land cultivated may be the gardener's own 
or may be worked under a lease. In the latter 
case, the annual rent per acre is, at an average, say 
$25 for highly cultivated land, while other land i'n 
the remoter suburbs, and not in as good condition, 
might be had for $10 per year — exclusive of 
buildings. 

There may doubtless be found some tracts of 
land under cultivation where ordinary interest, 
reckoned on the purchase money invested, would 
amount to $200 or more, annually, per acre ; but 
these are, of course, exceptional cases. 

With regard to the expense of labour, it may be 
stated that average men receive about $45 per 
month, or about $1.75 per day, during the summer 
season, and about $43 per month, or $1,65 per 
day, during the four months of winter. Of 
course, skilled labourers might expect to receive 

[94] 



CAPITAL AND LABOUR REQUIRED 

more, but to obtain it they must be men of some 
experience and natural adaptation to the work. 
The business is one in which men of tact and 
experience are in demand, no less than in a manu- 
facturing or mercantile establishment. 

The expense of keeping the work-horses, includ- 
ing all items, would amount to about $150 on 
each animal per year. The tools are a less import- 
ant item of expense, and yet the new and improved 
implements of the present date are quite costly, 
and the cultivation of even a limited amount of 
land requires a large number of them. 

By looking over the foregoing it will be seen 
that, if we exclude the more elaborate culture in 
hot-houses, the total annual expense of running 
two acres of land would be about $2,500. That 
of five acres would foot up about $5,000; of ten 
acres, about $8,000; while a hundred acres could 
be run for $25,000. Many people have a mis- 
taken idea that they can run a garden of ten, fifteen, 
or twenty acres on a capital smaller than is really 
requisite to properly run three acres. If one's 
capital is limited, it is far better to proportionally 
reduce the amount of land and improve the 
culture by use of the best methods and appliances. 

[95] 



CHAPTER IV 

VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET — CHARACTER- 
ISTICS — CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 

1 HE ARTICHOKE {Cijuara Scolymus) is used ex- 
tensively in Europe, either raw as a salad or boiled 
and served after the manner of cabbage. It may 
also be blanched somewhat as we treat endive — 
that is, the side stalks — and it is then used as a 
salad. 

It may be propagated either from the seed or 
by root cuttings. The latter is the best and most 
convenient plan; the offset suckers should be taken 
in the spring. When raised from seed, let them 
be sown early in the spring, say at the time of the 
flowering of the peach, in drills a foot apart, and 
four inches apart in the drills. The next spring 
transplant to permanent beds, in hills three feet 
apart each way, with three plants to a hill. It 
requires a deep, rich loam, abounding in moisture. 

As the plant is perennial, one planting will 
answer for several years. No winter protection 

[96] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

will be required except in the most northern 
States, and there a coat of straw or leaves will 
suffice to insure them against winter killing. 
The Green Globe and Common Green, which 
are much alike, are the varieties we have had in 
mind in writing the above. 

The Jerusalem Artichoke (Helianthus tube- 
rosus), differs from the foregoing in the fact that 
it is cultivated for its tubers, which are pickled like 
cucumbers or eaten raw sliced as a salad, or boiled 
like potatoes. They are planted like potatoes, in 
hills or rows, and will produce enormous crops. 
The tubers make excellent feed for all kinds of live 
stock, being the richest in fat-producing elements 
of any of our cultivated roots. Care must be 
taken at the time of harvesting to remove all the 
small roots, for if left in the ground they will 
come up the next spring, and may become a 
troublesome weed. 

Asparagus {A. officinalis) is a peculiar crop 
and generally speaking is a reliable one. The 
fact that it takes two years from the setting if 
two-year-old plants are set, or four years if the 
seed is sown, prevents many from growing it. 
It is not generally grown in the immediate vicinity 

[97] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

of Boston or other large cities, as the land is usually 
too valuable. The average proceeds per acre 
are moderate; from $200 to $300. 

As compared with other crops, it is a good one 
to ship, and will stand up well for a good length 
of time. 

Asparagus is a hardy, perennial, maritime 
plant. It may be grown from seed, or propagated 
by roots. One ounce of seed will sow about 
fifty feet of drill. It will thrive on almost any 
sandy soil, even if quite light, and the lighter the 
soil, others things being equal, the earlier the 
crop may be got off. A planting once properly 
made will last for years. A fair crop may be 
expected the third year from the seed, or in one or 
two years from the roots, according to their age 
when planted, and, after that, full crops every 
year. 

The soil for this crop cannot be made too rich, 
and should be thoroughly trenched two feet or 
more in depth. The plants should be set six to 
eight inches deep, in rows three to four feet apart, 
and one foot apart in the rows. The roots should 
be set in the spring as soon as the ground is in 
good working order (they can be set in the fall, 

[98] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

but the spring is the preferable time), say about 
the end of April. The crowns of the roots should 
be from four to six inches from the surface of the 
bed. A heavy application of manure must be 
made to an asparagus bed each fall — say eight 
or ten cords per acre. This should be lightly 
worked into the soil in the spring; a very light 
surface ploughing will accomplish this well, if 
carefully done. Salt is an excellent thing to apply 
for a dressing, for, although it does not act as a 
manure, as some people think, it is a great help 
in keeping down the weeds. 

In cutting for the market, the cut is made about 
two inches under the ground, and pains are taken 
to have the stalks about eight inches long. In 
preparing for market a buncher is used, so that 
all bunches are of exactly equal length and size. 
From twelve to twenty stalks are put in each 
bunch, according to the size of the stalks. They 
bring, on an average, about $1.50 per dozen 
bunches, still the price varies greatly with different 
seasons and depends largely on the supply of peas 
and greens that may be in the market. The 
season for cutting usually continues about five 
weeks, and the plants are then left to go to seed. 

[99] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

In the fall, if stable manure is to be applied, these 
seed stalks may be mown do\Mi and the ground 
cleared off by burning over; but in case commercial 
fertilizers are to be employed, it will be of advan- 
tage to let the stalks stand, for protection, mowing 
them down in the spring. 

The varieties are numerous, and differ con- 
siderably. Moore's Giant and Giant Argenteuil 
are the two varieties now most in use. 

As already said, the profit to be made from 
asparagus will not warrant its open-air culture 
upon the high-priced lands that lie near the markets 
where it must be sold; but, fortunately, it keeps 
well, and will bear transporting over long distances. 

It has been somewhat out of favour with market 
gardeners, but it is now beginning to be forced 
in hot-houses, thus commanding a fancy price. 
Where it is grown in this way, the roots are dug 
in the fall and put into a cool cellar till required 
to be placed in the forcing-house. The asparagus 
will be fit for cutting in three or four weeks. The 
roots thus taken up are of no use after being forced 
in this manner. 

Beans {Phaseolus vulgaris). Dwarf or Bush 
kinds. This familiar crop flourishes best in a 

[100] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

rather light, gravelly soil; and it should never 
be planted in very heavy land. Beans are 
extremely sensitive to frost and cold. The bush 
beans are rather more hardy than the pole vari- 
eties, but nevertheless should not be planted 
until settled weather; say, in this section, about 
the first week in May. Nothing is gained by 
putting them in when the weather is cold, or the 
land damp and soggy, for they are a crop that 
never recovers from a set-back received early in 
the season. Whenever the land has become 
light and warm, select a dry and sheltered location; 
and on the ground lightly manured, and in good 
condition of tilth, plant in drills or rows. Hoe 
often, but only when dry. Plant at intervals till 
last of July for a succession. 

In manuring for this crop, we have found it 
works well to give the land a fair dressing of 
manure (lightly worked into the soil) and then 
give a light application of some fertilizer, say 
wood ashes, or Bowker's Special Phosphate, in 
the drill at the time of planting. This seems to 
give the crop a quicker and better start than it 
gets where manure is applied directly in the drill. 
The distance apart for the rows should be from 

[101] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

three to three and a half feet, and the seed dropped 
from four to six inches apart in the drill (which 
should be from an inch to an inch and a half in 
depth). At this distance apart, about one bushel 
of seed would be required per acre, where all the 
land is devoted to the crop; but many prefer to 
plant every fourth row with squash, so as to double- 
crop the land. 

A fair average yield per acre would be from 
three hundred to four hundred bushels; and the 
crop ought to bring from, seventy cents to one dol- 
lar per bushel. A good picker should pick two 
and a half barrels per day, or about eight 
bushels. 

After the crop is fairly up, the cultivator should 
be run through lightly; and, at the second hoeing 
a little earth should be drawn toward the plants 
to support them. They should never be hoed 
or worked amongst, if it can possibly be avoided, 
at times when they are wet, either by rain or dew, 
as there is much danger of rusting or blighting 
the crop. 

There is a large number of varieties of green 
and wax beans and many of these are identical, 
that is, they have been renamed by the grower or 

[102] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

seedsman and differ very slightly from the original 
variety. 

I shall devote my time to only those varieties 
which are now grown in this vicinity, and which 
the market demands. 

Of the green and pod varieties there are three 
classes, namely, string or snap beans, shell beans, 
and bush Limas. 

Of the former the most popular are the Bounti- 
ful, Early Red Valentine, Refugee, Longfellow, 
Burpee Stringless Green Pod. The Bountiful 
is an extra early variety, very prolific and with 
large flat pods practically stringless. This variety 
has taken the place of the Long Yellow Six Weeks 
which used to be grown universally. 

The Early Red Valentine is as early as any of 
the standard sorts. Bears round pods of medium 
size and quite tender. 

The Refugee, or 1,000 to 1, and Extra Early 
Refugee are both excellent snap beans with 
rather small round pods borne in great abundance. 

Locally these two varieties are grown more 
for late planting than for early. The seeds are 
planted in July or early August, and are ready 
for market in September when they often bring 

[103] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

a very good price. These varieties are also 
largely grown in the South for Northern markets 
in the early spring. 

The Longfellow is a variety of rather recent 
introduction with which a number of growers 
have had good success. 

Valued for its productiveness and for the length 
of pod, Burpee's Stringless Green Pod is perhaps 
the most tender of all the green varieties. Very 
productive with large thick pods. It, however, 
like all tender beans, is very susceptible to rust 
during the wet season. 

Of the shell beans there are three that are in 
favour with the growers to-day, namely. Dwarf 
Horticultural, Low's Champion, and Goddard. 

The Dwarf Horticultural is probably the most 
widely known. The pods when mature are yel- 
lowish and thickly splashed with bright crimson 
and quite plump. 

Low's Champion is the dwarf red cranberry 
bean, with large pods borne well off the ground, 
and can be used either as a shell or snap bean. 
It is very productive. Of the bush Lima beans, 
there are three varieties that are in demand with 
the market gardeners. These are Dreer's Bush 

[ 104 ] 

# 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

Lima, Burpee's Bush Lima, and Henderson's 
Bush Lima. Dreer's Bush Lima is the best, as 
it is early and more productive. The pods are 
thick and succulent and contain from three to 
five beans of fair size, more rounded than flat. 

Burpee's Bush Lima bears a large amount of 
pods containing beans very flat and large, similar 
to the large white pole variety. 

Henderson's Bush Lima is the dwarf Sieva or 
small Lima. It matures earlier than either of the 
above two, but, being smaller-podded, will not 
yield as many bushels as the Dreer's Bush Lima. 
The above three varieties are much more tender 
than the sorts that precede them and should not 
be planted before the latter part of May or rather 
till the ground is thoroughly warm. 

Of the wax varieties, the Wardwell Kidney 
Wax, Rawson's Horticultural Wax, Davis Kidney 
Wax are the most widely grown in this section, 
though not a few stick to the older varieties as 
Golden Wax, Golden-Eyed Wax, Improved Gol- 
den Wax, and Black Wax. 

Wariwell Kidney Wax is remarkable for its 
productiveness. Pods are long, flat and handsome 
in colour. It is quite susceptible to rust, however, 

[ 105 ] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

during a wet season. On account of this fact 
many prefer the Horticultural Wax which is prac- 
tically free from rust. This latter variety is much 
better for a market variety than for one's own 
garden, as the beans have to be picked at a certain 
time, before they get too stringy. Davis Kidney 
Wax, while a fine yielder under favourable con- 
ditions, is very susceptible to rust. The pods 
when right, though, are handsome and sell readily 
in the market. 

Of the older varieties the old Golden Wax is 
probably the most tender of all, but not so profit- 
able from a grocer's standpoint. 

Golden-Eyed Wax and Improved Golden Wax 
are much hardier than the old Golden Wax, but 
not so prolific as the first three varieties mentioned, 
and, therefore, of less value to the market gardener. 

The Pole or Running kinds are less hardy than 
the bush varieties, and will not bear planting 
quite as early. From about the middle of May 
to the first of June, according to the season, is 
about right with us. 

They should invariably be planted in hills, 
which should be about three feet apart, with rows 
four feet apart. From five to six seeds should 

[106] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

be placed in each hill, with the eye downward, 
and should be covered to about the same depth as 
is directed for bush or snap beans. A quart of 
seed will plant a hundred and fifty hills; the poles 
should be set at the time of planting. 

They succeed best in sandy loam, which should 
be liberally enriched with short manure in the 
hills. Three plants in a hill are as many as should 
be allowed to grow, and, with the vigorous growing 
kinds on strong soil, it is better to have only two. 
The thinning should be done when the plants 
have become well established. They bear trans- 
planting well, and this affords a means of filling 
up around the poles where they miss or fail to come 
up. They can also be started in frames and 
transplanted to the open ground, so as to secure 
an advanced stage of growth and earlier maturity; 
but this method is not extensively practised. 
The maturity of some of the later sorts can 
be hastened by nipping off the tips of the run- 
ners when they have reached the height of four 
or five feet. 

Dreer's Improved Pole Lima is the best of the 
pole Limas for the market gardener. Pods broad 
and of good size; very productive. Also earlier 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

than the Large White Lima or King of the Garden 
Lima. Sieva or Small Lima is very productive 
and will continue to produce crop throughout the 
season. 

Of the pole beans, the variety most generally 
planted for the market is the Worcester Pole. 
The best strains of this variety bear enormously 
large, long pods in clusters, brilliantly coloured 
crimson. Wonderfully productive, very tender, 
and, for a shell bean, surpasses any other variety. 
Mammoth Carmine Podded is somewhat similar 
and possibly originated from a stock of Worcester 
Pole. 

Arlington Red Cranberry bean can be used as a 
snap or shell, and is very productive. 

The old Pole Horticultural is not grown very 
extensively now, but years ago was the peer of 
any. It is from this variety that the Worcester, 
Brockton and other ** Speckled Cranberry" sorts 
have come. 

Kentucky Wonder is a variety enjoying popular 
favour, and deservedly so, not only on account 
of its productiveness, but also for its quality, 
being perfectly stringless, and very tender. 

Of the wax podded pole varieties the Indian Chief 
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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

and Pole Mont d'Or are worthy of mention. Both 
are black-seeded, very productive and stringless. 

The Beet (Beta vulgaris) is one of the most 
important crops and is of comparatively easy 
culture. Where possible, a rather light, sandy 
loam should be selected for this crop, in preference 
to a heavy soil. In order to have a succession 
of this crop throughout the year seed may be sown 
in the greenhouse or bed the latter part of February 
or early in March, and pricked out in the field 
in beds from the 15th to the 20th of April. They 
are pricked to a distance of from 6 to 7 inches 
apart in the rows, and rows one foot apart. These 
pricked beets should be ready for market generally 
the latter part of May, and invariably bring a 
good price, large enough to warrant the extra 
trouble. 

For the first crop of sowed beets, seed should 
be sown about the middle of April or as soon as 
the ground is in a suitable condition to work. 

The land should be made up in the form of 
beds about 6 feet wide, the rows be planted 
by machine at a distance of from 12 to 14 inches 
apart, and the drills should be at least one inch 
deep. It is well to sow the first crop rather thick, 

[109] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

as it may save reseeding, which is sometimes 
necessary on account of severe weather when the 
young plants are coming up. 

After the plants have gained a good foothold 
they should be thinned out to a distance of from 
6 to 8 inches apart. Clean culture should, of 
course, be given, and the soil well enriched. 

The above remarks apply to the crop w^hen 
grown for early marketing. For fall or winter 
use seed should be sown from the last of June 
to the middle of July according to the variety used. 

Of the varieties now in use by successful market 
gardeners there are only a few of superior merit. 
These are Crosby's Egyptian, Arlington Favourite, 
Detroit Dark Red and Edmand's. 

Crosby's Egyptian is probably more generally 
used in New England than any other. As an 
early beet it has no superior, as it reaches the 
desired size quicker than any other sort. The 
beets are of good size, not too large, rather flat 
than round, and possessing that deep blood 
flesh that is so much desired. 

This variety is also used as a fall beet, planted 
early in July, and thinned out to from 4 to 6 inches 
apart. Can be kept till late into the winter. 

[110] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

Arlington Favourite is largely used for a second 
early or main crop. Beets are very shapely in 
form with smooth skin, and fine marketable size. 
Flesh is deep blood red, of excellent flavour, very 
sweet and tender. 

Detroit Dark Red is a nearly globular beet 
with a smooth dark skin and dark flesh. An 
excellent sort for late planting, maturing early 
and keeping crisp and tender. Edmand's is 
another strain which is used for late planting, 
and in many localities cannot be surpassed. The 
beets run very even in size and grow a very short 
top, which at once recommend it to the market 
gardener. Flesh is also deep blood red. Con- 
sidered to be one of the best-keeping beets grown. 

There are many other sorts grown, such as 
Boston Market, Eclipse, Dewing's, etc., but the 
four varieties mentioned above are the cream of 
all the known sorts for market gardening. 

Beet Greens are also grown extensively as 
a crop in the greenhouses, and often bring $1.00 
to $1.50 per bushel. 

Swiss Chard is a sort cultivated largely for 
its broad leaf-stalks. The stem and midrib of the 
leaf may be boiled and served similarly to aspar- 

[111] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

agus, while the strippings can be used as spinach. 
When cut it should be cut close to the ground, 
allowing new growth to spring up. 

In marketing beets, the pricked crop and early- 
sown crop are nearly always bunched. 

They are pulled when they reach the circum- 
ference of a silver dollar and tied in bunches of 
four. Eighteen to twenty-five bunches are put 
in a bushel box, but twenty is the best number, 
as they are sold by the bunch. These bunches 
bring from 5 cents to 2J cents per bunch according 
to the earliness or lateness of the season. 

At this price a fair crop would yield $400 to 
$500 per acre. 

Late beets are always sold by the bushel, and 
a fair yield per acre would be 300 bushels, which 
should bring upward of $150. 

The Crosby Egyptian Beet is often used as a 
second crop following cabbage, peas, beans or 
spinach, or some other early crop that will be out 
of the way by the middle of July. 

For this late sowing, six pounds of seed to the 
acre is sufficient, but for the early spring crop at 
least eight pounds should be used. 

Borecole, or Kale {Brassica oleracea acephala) 
[112] 




CROSBY EGYPTIAN BEET 




RAWSON S PERFECTION CABBAGE 




EARLY JERSEY WAKEFIELD CABBAGE 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

is a name applied to the class of cabbage which does 
not head, but is used as an esculent in its open 
growth. When used, the crown or centre of the 
plant is cut off so as to include the leaves, which 
usually do not exceed nine inches in length. It 
boils well, and is more tender, sweet and delicate, 
provided it has been duly exposed to frost. To 
secure heavy crops of this hardy, useful winter 
vegetable, a deep, rich soil is essential, and the 
ground should be trenched two feet deep and 
liberally manured. Sow about the middle of 
April, in well-prepared soil, covering the seeds 
thinly and evenly. Half an ounce will sow a bed 
of twenty square feet. Plant out in June, 
and cultivate as elsewhere recommended for 
cabbage. 

The Dwarf Purple, or Brown Kale, is a 
beautiful curled variety, with reddish-tinted leaves. 
Another is the Green Curled Scotch, which is 
very hardy, and, like the Savoys, is improved by 
a moderate frost. 

In cultivating the Improved Siberian variety — 
a strain of the kind known as German Greens, 
or ''sprouts" — sow in September, in rows one 
foot apart, and treat the same as spinach. This 

[113] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

is a very hardy kind, much grown by the New 
York gardeners. 

Broccoli (Brassica oleracea hotrytis) is a variety 
of cabbage very closely resembling the cauliflower. 
There is scarcely any difference between the two 
beyond what would naturally be looked for be- 
tween different varieties. It is hardy, and sure to 
head, but is inferior in flavour. 

All the varieties of broccoli require a rich, deep 
soil ; and the ground should be trenched to a depth 
of at least two feet, well incorporating, as the work 
proceeds, abundance of rich manure. Where 
the object is to obtain fine large heads, too much 
manure can hardly be used. 

The seed should be sown in hot-beds, for early 
crops, in March or April; for main crops, in the 
open ground in May, in beds of well-pulverized 
rich soil, making the surface fine, and then beating 
the seed gently into the ground, and covering it 
with fine earth. 

One ounce will sow a bed of forty square feet, 
and produce about 3,000 plants. When the plants 
are sufficiently strong, and before they are drawn 
by growing too closely together, transplant them 
into nursery beds or lines, allowing about four 

[114] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

inches between the plants. This will insure strong, 
stocky plants, and will also induce the formation 
of an extra quantity of roots. 

Plant in permanent situations as soon as the 
plants are sufficiently established, taking care not 
to injure the roots, in rows from two feet to two 
feet six inches apart, leaving about the same dis- 
tance between the plants. Keep them well 
supplied with water until they get fairly established, 
especially the early varieties, and these must also 
be liberally watered in all stages of their growth 
during dry hot weather. 

Keep the ground well stirred between the rows, 
and free from weeds. When they begin to flower, 
break the large leaves over the heads to protect 
them from the sun, and gather them before they 
commence running up to seed. Broccoli thrives 
best in cool, moist fall weather — hot, dry summer 
weather not being suited to it. The heads are 
cooked the same as cauliflower. 

English seedsmen catalogue an almost endless 
number of varieties, but there are only a very few 
of distinct and admitted merit. Walcheren is an 
excellent variety, with large white heads. Early 
Purple Cap is an excellent sort; but many do not 

[115] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

like the greenish purple colour of the heads. 
White Cap is, perhaps, our best variety; heads 
very white and solid — a sure header. 

This vegetable is not raised extensively in any 
section of this country, except California. 

Brussels Sprouts {Brassica oleracea hullata). 
This is yet another of the cabbage family, and 
like broccoli is little grown here, though its excellent 
qualities seem to be fully appreciated by our 
English cousins. The culture is simple, and 
very much the same as is adopted for cauliflower 
or cabbage (except that it must be remembered 
that the sprouts are a little less hardy. A similar 
quantity of seed is required. 

The seeds should be sown in March or April 
in the hot-bed, or in the open ground when the 
weather permits. When the plants are about 
three inches high they should be transplanted. 
The early ones will be ready for the table in Sep- 
tember; the late ones, for winter use, should be 
harvested before cold weather, and stored the 
same as cabbages or cauliflowers. 

The small heads, which grow along the stem, 
are the eatable parts of this vegetable, and when 
boiled like cabbage, or stewed with cream, like 

[116] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

cauliflower, are very tender and delicious. Where 
the winters are not very severe, they may remain 
in the ground, to be cut as needed; in fact, the 
sprouts are much improved by a moderate frost. 
The leaves, which resemble the Savoy, should be 
broken down in the fall to give the little cabbages 
room to grow. 

Dwarf Improved is very tender and is disting- 
uished for fine flavour; it is the best kind for 
general use. 

Cabbage {Brassica oleracea capitata) is one of 
the most important and one of the best-paying 
crops. 

Lettuce can be set between the cabbage rows, 
to be cut off before the growth of the main crop 
will interfere with it. In this manner three crops 
may be grown each season; which will make the 
land pay as well as can be done by almost any 
other system of cropping. 

As cabbages require a large amount of lime, 
they should not be grown on the same ground 
oftener than once in three years, unless a special 
application of lime is made. This is often done, 
and especially in the vicinity of New York City; 
but, where practicable, it is better to avoid devot- 

[117] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

ing the ground continuously to crops of the cabbage 
family. And it is also better to avoid putting in 
cabbages to follow any shallow-feeding crop 
(like corn, for instance) as they collect the greater 
part of their nourishment near the surface and are, 
moreover, rank feeders, so that it is well to let 
them follow and be followed by some deep-rooted 
crop. 

On the land in good tillable condition, an appli- 
cation of twenty cords of manure per acre is about 
what will be required. We prefer well-decom- 
posed horse manure to any other. This manure 
may cost about $7 per cord, delivered on the 
place. 

The applying would cost about $6; ploughing, 
$2; marking, or furrowing, $2; setting, or trans- 
planting, $5; hoeing, $5 (which would include 
cultivating) ; plants (6,000 at $5 per thousand), $30; 
rent, $25; marketing, $25; making a total of $240. 

If set at intervals of three and a half feet by two 
feet, the number of plants that can be grown per 
acre is six thousand. And it thus appears that 
they cannot be grown at smaller actual cost than 
four cents per head. The general average price 
is only six cents, which would indicate a profit 

[118] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

of only $120 per acre; although, of course, if they 
should bring eight or ten cents, as they often do, 
the profit would be handsomely increased. 

It will be seen that we have charged all the 
twenty cords of manure to the cabbages, while 
in fact the cabbages only take a share of it, and 
usually leave an abundance for the crop that 
follows. So it becomes a rather difficult matter 
to figure the exact cost by itself of growing a field 
of cabbages ; but after the second crop is harvested 
it will be an easy affair to distribute the expenses 
between the two, and thus one may get at the 
matter very closely. 

If it is seen that the manure which has been 
applied is not sufficient to carry out the crop, a 
dressing should be given of half a ton of some 
good commercial fertilizer that is rich in potash. 
Wood ashes, when obtainable, are excellent for 
this purpose. 

Although the list of cabbages is quite large, 
there is a large number that we can discard as 
useless for the market gardener. 

For an early variety you will have to grow that 
sort which your market demands. For instance, 
the Boston market will not take so well to the 

[119] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

pointed or sugar-loaf varieties as sorae of the 
cities south of Boston. 

Of the pointed heads the following have been 
proved to be superior : Rawson's Volunteer, Early 
Etampes, Jersey Wakefield, and Charleston 
Wakefield. 

Rawson's Volunteer and Early Etampes are 
similar in type, the former having the advantage 
of a few days in earliness. The heads are not 
quite so large as in some of the other varieties, 
on account of the earliness in maturing. 

Early Jersey Wakefield is the variety most 
extensively grown and is superior to any other as 
regards firmness, sureness of heading and fine 
keeping qualities. 

Charleston Wakefield is similar to Jersey 
Wakefield, but much larger in size. 

Of the early round flat-headed sorts, Early 
Spring is by far the best. Will mature close upon 
Jersey Wakefield, and is remarkable for the 
uniformity of heads, which at once recommends 
it to the market gardener. 

Early Summer matures about ten days later 
than Early Spring. Heads are very solid and of 
excellent size. As it is larger than the preceding 

[120] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

sorts, it should be planted a little farther apart, 
say about twenty inches in the row, and the rows 
three and a half feet apart. 

Of the main crop or second early varieties. 
All Season, Fottler's Brunswick, Succession and 
Rawson's Perfection are worthy of mention. 

All these have larger heads than the extra early 
sorts and are very compact and solid. 

For late or winter varieties. Stone Mason, 
Drumhead, and Danish Ball Head are the best 
sorts for the market gardener. The heads of the 
Stone Mason are very large, round, wonderfully 
solid and of a crispness and tenderness that are 
remarkable. 

Danish Ball Head or Emperor is famous for 
its hard-heading qualities. The remarkably solid 
heads are round in form, and keep m excellent 
condition when buried during the winter, often 
coming out in the spring perfectly solid. 

The wider planting is better, even in places 
where cabbages are sold entirely by weight. We 
do not doubt that by setting two feet apart each 
way just as many pounds per acre could be raised; 
but the advantage in the wider style of planting is 
that fewer plants will be required per acre, and 

[121] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

consequently there will be less work in cutting; 
and further, the cabbages will usually be harder 
and of better quality. 

The Curled Savoy comes along the latest: and 
is grown mostly for winter use. The Globe Curled 
is the popular Curled Savoy cabbage of the Boston 
market. The Drumhead Savoy, which is a cross 
of the Globe Curled and Drumhead, is a large- 
headed Savoy cabbage, tender and fine flavoured, 
a good winter variety. It differs from the Curled 
in being of larger size and less curled. As a Savoy 
it is less desirable than the smaller variety for 
eating, but the crop is a profitable one to raise. 
It is a good variety for winter use. 

The Savoy cabbages have wrinkled leaves and 
have a peculiar flavour that is much liked by 
most people. They are improved in quality by 
a slight touch of frost. The Globe curled variety, 
before named, is an American sort. English 
Curled Savoy is a peculiar sort used for early spring 
greens. 

For the early varieties, which we have mentioned 
above, the seed is usually sown in hot-beds, from 
the 10th to the 20th of February. They should 
be covered about half an inch deep. In about 

[122] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

four weeks they are ready for transplanting, which 
is usually done in a bed from which a crop of 
lettuce has just been removed. They should be 
put in about three and a half inches apart, so as 
to give them plenty of room to grow stout and 
stocky. By this rule two hundred plants are put 
under each sash. After they have obtained a 
good start the sash should be removed gradually, 
to allow them to harden off; and they may be 
given all the protection necessary in severe weather 
by the use of shutters. They are usually trans- 
planted to the open ground either the last week 
in April or the first in May, according to the 
season. 

The land best suited to this crop is a deep, 
rich, loamy soil, and should be prepared by very 
heavy manuring; lap two furrows together about 
three and one half feet apart and beat them down 
nearly level with a fork. A sprinkling of wood 
ashes on the young plants will keep oflf the cabbage- 
fly, and promote their growth. 

For late crops, sow from June 1 to June 20, 
and even as late as the 1st of July, in the field, or 
in beds, so as to transplant. Cover three-quarters 
of an inch deep, as the soil is drier now than earlier 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

in the season. Shade and water the late sowings 
in dry weather to get them up. 

It is important that the plants should stand 
thinly in the seed-bed, or they will run up weak 
and slender, and be likely to make long stumps. 
When the weather is hot and dry the roots of the 
plants may be dipped in a puddle of loam and 
water, and transplanted just at evening, giving 
each plant a gill of water at the root. If planting 
seeds in hills twenty-two inches apart, plant six 
or eight seeds; of such as come up, reserve one 
and transplant the rest. 

Late cabbages are usually grown as a second 
crop, following peas or something similar in cul- 
ture; or they may be set on newly turned land 
which has been in early grain or grass. It is not 
generally necessary to apply as much manure as 
for the early crop; twelve cords is usually an 
abundant dressing, especially where they follow 
some other crop which has been well manured 
the same season. 

To keep cabbage through the winter, commence 
by making a small bank, say about one and a 
half feet high, in some sheltered locality. Pull 
the cabbage, and place the heads against the bank 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 
in a row as close as they can stand; then turn up 
the earth with the plough against the row. Be 
careful not to cover the head, but make the earth 
firm around the roots. Then with a shovel 
square down the bank thus made, and place 
another row; this will be about eight or ten inches 
from the first; and so continue until all are set out. 
Another way is to place the cabbages head down- 
ward on the ground, and cover the heads and 
stumps with dirt, then adding hay or something 
similar to keep out the frost. This protection 
should also be given in banking up by the other 
method. Put on enough to be sure that they 
will not freeze solid. If frozen about half through, 
they are not injured, and will keep quite well. 
In some of the houses where cabbages are stored, 
they are placed head down on the shelf, laid 
as close as possible, and only one deep. The 
temperature is kept at about the freezing point. 

Carrot (Daucus carota) has become during 
the past ten or fifteen years one of the principal 
market gardening crops. This has doubtless 
been brought about by the increase of foreign 
population. 

Carrots require a very finely pulverized and por- 
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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

ous, sandy loam for their full development, and for 
large crops. It is important that the land should 
not be too rich, as then the crop will run too much 
to tops; and still they should not be placed on 
poor, light soil with the expectation of a big crop. 
Land that is in fairly good condition, and has 
been manured the year previous for some other 
crop, is usually quite rich enough for the growing 
of carrots. 

When grown under glass they are usually sown 
with radishes from the 10th of January to the 1st 
of February. Two rows of radishes are sown in 
the hot-bed and then one row of carrots. From 
the middle to the last of March the radishes are 
ready for pulling, which leaves the carrots in full 
possession of the bed. 

It is best to grow in the above manner some 
variety that has a short top and will mature early. 
Thus the two best varieties are, probably, Nantes 
and Chantenay. 

The sash, being usually removed some time 
between March 20 and April 1, can after that date 
be used for some other purpose, and, until warm 
weather all the protection needed by the carrots 
may be given with shutters. 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

They will be ready for pulling and bunching 
about the last week in May (taking for their 
growth about twice the time of the radishes). 
At this season, they usually bring, on an average, 
$1 per dozen bunches, five carrots being put in a 
bunch, and at this price the crop will bring about 
$1.50 per sash. 

For the out-door crop there is only one variety 
that appeals to the market gardener, especially 
in New England, and that is the Danvers Half 
Long. 

Seed is sown in the middle of April, the first 
sowings preferably in beds about five feet wide 
in order to get the carrots out in time to follow 
with celery. Sow five rows to each bed. The 
outside rows on each bed should be pulled first 
as soon as large enough for bunching in order to 
have room to set celery plants during July. From 
the latter part of July the carrots are sold in boxes. 

The latter sowings for late summer and fall or 
winter use are sowed in drills about one foot 
apart. 

Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea hotrytis). The 
culture of this crop involves much painstaking 
labour. When grown in large quantities they 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

are usually stored in the fall for winter marketing. 
They are one of the various forms of the cabbage 
family and require similar general treatment. 

In the ordinary cabbage, which is a biennial 
plant, the rounded, thick, fleshy, strongly veined 
leaves afford the edible portion; being collected 
into a head the first year, at the summit of a short 
and stout stem. In cauliflower, and similarly in 
Broccoli, the nutritive matter mainly concentrates 
in short, imperfect flower-branches collected into 
a flattish head. 

It is naturally a fall crop, and will not well bear 
early forcing, although the heads are now grown 
to some extent in hot-houses, out of season, thus 
commanding high prices. They are more or less 
subject to club-root; as to the cause and remedy 
for which there is not yet much satisfactory infor- 
mation; and there are other limitations to their 
profitable culture which gardeners have not yet 
perfectly learned. 

In out-door culture, when they do well they 
will usually pay better than early cabbage; but 
there is much more risk in cultivating them. As 
raised in this locality, about six thousand are 
grown per acre, and if maturing well will bring in 

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about $700. The price varies from $1 to $2 per 
dozen. 

They are usually grown, Hke late cabbage, 
for a second crop. Sometimes a piece of land is 
devoted solely to them through the season; but 
when set early they do not usually head as well. 
From the first of May until the first of July, accord- 
ing to the date when plants will be wanted for 
setting, is the time to put in the seed. It is a crop 
that well repays generous treatment in cultivation. 
With a deep rich soil, well supplied with moisture, 
which in dry seasons must be artificially furnished, 
cauliflowers can be grown well. Frequent hoeing 
and a liberal supply of rich liquid manure, to keep 
up a continuous and rapid growth, will produce 
splendid heads of the most delicate flavour. It 
facilitates blanching if the leaves are gathered 
loosely together, and tied over the top of the head 
to protect from the sun. They must be taken 
before the flowers begin to open. 

There is no garden crop that is pinched more 
severely by a drought than the cauliflower; and 
none, perhaps, which will pay better for irrigation. 

Sowing for plants of the very earliest varieties 
may be done in houses or hot-beds in February 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

or March; or later in a cold frame. Sow as late 
as June 20 or July 1, for late crops, in beds or in 
hills, covering one half -inch deep. For the early 
fall crop, sow in May and transplant in June, in 
rows four feet apart, setting the plants two feet 
apart in the row; water frequently if the ground 
be dry. 

As directed for cabbage culture — give the 
young plants special attention, if the weather be 
hot and dry at the time of transplanting, and use 
means already described to prevent injury result- 
ing from their roots becoming in the least dry 
from exposure to sun or air. Transplant at 
evening as far as practicable; and always choose 
a moist day rather than a dry one, if circumstances 
permit a choice. 

The young plants are frequently attacked by a 
little black beetle, but its ravages may be stopped 
by frequent applications of plaster dusted on in 
the morning while the dew is on. 

For the main crop, early variety, there is with 
us nothing so good as Rawson's Sea Foam, which 
derives its name from the pure white colour of 
the heads. It is quite distinct and the surest 
header we know of. The Snowball, being a very 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

sure header, is quite desirable, although not equal- 
ling the Sea Foam with us. The Early Dwarf 
Erfurt is one of the standard varieties, and used 
for both early and late sowings. It is a very sure 
header, not large, but even in size. The Late 
Erfurt is a later strain of the preceding, and 
consequently requires a longer season to reach 
maturity. It is a large size. The Algiers is a 
splendid sort, the largest and latest of all the vari- 
eties grown. It is the kind most in use for pickling, 
because of its superior size and weight. 

Celeriac or Turnip-Rooted Celery (Apium 
graveolens rapaceum), although but little used 
in this country, is quite popular in Europe, espe- 
cially in Germany and France. It is rather 
peculiar in its manner of growth. It is started, 
and in its early stages should be treated, precisely 
like celery, except that, as it requires but a slight 
earthing up, the plants may be set much closer. 
Two feet apart for the rows, and eight inches for 
the plants, will give abundance of room. The 
sowing should be done early in the spring in light, 
rich roil; transplant in May into beds and water 
freely in dry weather. The earthing up is done 
when the plants are nearly full-grown, and the bulbs 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

should be covered to a depth of four or five inches. 
In about a month they will have become sufficiently 
blanched. The globe-shaped bulbous roots form 
the edible portion, and are commonly ready for 
use in October. For winter use they may be 
stored in trenches after the manner in which celery 
is kept; or placed in sand in a cool cellar. 

They are used on the table in various ways; 
they may be put into soups; or sliced and used 
with vinegar, making a most excellent salad; or 
cooked by boiling, after being scraped and sliced, 
till they have become very tender, after which 
they are stewed in just milk enough to cover, then 
seasoned with salt and served with butter. A 
very productive variety is known as "Apple- 
Shaped"; very regular, almost spherical in form, 
with a fine neck and small leaves; it may be 
planted very thickly and will yield a heavy crop. 
It is botanically classed as a kind of celery, and 
is often catalogued by seedsmen as a variety of 
that plant. 

Celery (Apium graveolens). Although the 
culture of this crop has become widely extended, 
and the amount of annual product has vastly 
increased of late years and is still continually 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

increasing, it is none the less a fact that the profit- 
able management of it is a matter of exceeding 
difficulty. The crop is one that demands more 
careful and laborious attention than almost any 
other in the market-gardener's list. 

The seed is extremely small and remarkably 
slow in germinating, and this presents at the 
outset one of the difficulties of celery growing, 
viz., securing a good stand of plants to commence 
with. To accomplish this demands, amongst other 
things, a seed-bed well and thoroughly prepared, 
a careful choice of the most suitable varieties 
and a skilful sowing of well-selected seed. 

In choosing a place for starting the plants, find 
if possible a cool and partially shaded spot. The 
soil should be put in good condition and firmed 
down. After it is prepared in this respect, rake 
the surface lightly and sow on the seed broad- 
cast, then place a hot-bed shutter, or a plank, on 
the surface, and have a man walk or jump upon 
it until the soil is again well compacted. After 
this, sift on soil, using just enough to cover the 
seed lightly, not over a quarter of an inch at most. 
Then pat down moderately with the back of a 
spade or shovel, and the work is done, except 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

watering, until the plants are well up, which will 
usually be at the end of three or four weeks' time. 
The bed should be kept constantly moist, but 
not too wet. An ounce of seed should sow a space 
about six feet square, and should furnish fully 
six thousand plants. The seed does not suffer 
from age until it is over five years old. 

In describing the foregoing method we have 
assumed that the plants are to be lifted and trans- 
planted, but many growers sow the seed in the 
rows where the crop is to stand. On many 
accounts we prefer the former plan. You will 
always get a much more even and generally a 
more vigorous stand by transplanting, than when 
the plants have grown from seed sown in the field 
and have been cultivated by thinning out; and 
the former plan has been found in our experience 
to succeed the best all the way through. Still, 
since the results of the same experiments will often 
vary in different localities and under differing 
conditions, it may be well for any one to try both 
methods, and to follow up the trial far enough to 
perceive which it is that seems the one best adapted 
to his own situation. Much may be found to 
depend upon the natural quality of the soil — its 

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PARIS GOLDEN SELF-BLANCHING CELERY 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

condition of tilth and general preparation — the 
risks resulting from the vicissitudes of the weather, 
etc. Yet the fact remains that it is usually much 
better and easier to transplant a crop from the seed- 
bed than to thin out a standing one, and the plants 
so established will exhibit a more uniform growth. 

When the celery is to follow cabbage or other 
early crops, the plants are usually twice trans- 
planted — once from the seed-bed, and again 
when set out permanently in the open field. When 
lifted from the seed-bed, they are put out five or 
six inches apart, so that, when next to be removed 
they can be lifted singly, and without their being 
so violently disturbed as when lifted from a bed 
where they have grown too large standing close, 
and with the roots all twined together. 

In this section, celery is invariably grown as a 
second or third crop. The soil best adapted to 
celery is a strong, deep, sandy loam, naturally 
moist; the crop needs and must have plenty of 
moisture during droughts, or a shortage will be 
the inevitable result. 

When celery is to follow early cabbage, it is the 
usual custom to plough the land before setting 
the plants. But no manure should be applied 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

beyond that already in the soil. Experience proves 
that the land is usually able to carry out the crop 
better by relying upon the unconsumed portion 
of the fertilizers supplied to the earlier crop than 
by addition of fresh manure. 

Care must be taken to set the plants at just 
the right depth — just so deep as not to cover 
the crown — and the loosened soil must be pressed 
down and brought together firmly about the roots. 
Celery of all kinds should be planted for level 
culture, and not in trenches. 

We have usually had the rows four to five feet 
apart, and plants six inches apart in the row. 
The only cultivation necessary after the setting, 
until it is time for the hilling-up — usually termed 
banking — consists in keeping the ground free 
from weeds and the surface mellow. Never hoe 
or bank when wet. 

Where the celery is set out for a late crop, and 
is to be banked but once, the plants may in that 
case be set in rows only four and a half feet apart. 
The first transplanting is to be done in June, the 
second in July; sometimes, in a very wet season, 
it may be successful if as late as the first week in 
August. 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

If the crop has been planted out early, banking 
may begin the first week in September, or about 
four weeks before it is wanted. Two bankings 
will suffice for the early crop, and they should be 
timed about ten days apart. For later use, say 
about Thanksgiving time, commence about the 
first of October; repeat the banking about the 
tenth, and still again about the twentieth. For 
winter use, bank about the fifteenth or later, 
according to the season; and if the celery is not 
very large, one banking will be sufficient, as it 
only requires to be straightened up to have it 
keep long; and it is better if blanched but very 
little. 

When it is ready for storing it should be taken 
up and placed in pits prepared for the purpose. 
The roots should be covered the same as if they 
were standing in the ground; and should be 
placed about six inches apart, if they are to remain 
on hand long, so as to allow the air to circulate 
properly. 

To prepare a pit for storing celery make the 
sides of plank, twenty-four feet apart and about 
two feet high from the ground. The boards for 
covering should be thirteen feet long, the ends 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
of two lengths meeting each other on the centre 
of the pit ; where it should have an interior height 
of six feet. Enough loam is thrown out from the 
inside, in forming the pit, to embank the sides 
and ends. 

In setting the celery, commence at one end of 
the pit; dig a trench about three inches deep, and 
set in the celery as closely as you can in the row. 
In taking up loam for covering the roots of one 
row, another trench is obtained for setting down 
the next. Be careful to make it stand up perfectly 
straight; and, either in the field or in the pit, the 
yellow leaves should all be removed before the 
packing in. 

The pit can be extended to any length desired, 
and partitions may be employed : so that portions 
of the stock can be kept cooler, and so held back; 
or can be kept warmer and ripened off. 

The boards covering the pits must be put on as 
fast as the celery is got in. Small ventilators, 
about one foot square, are constructed along the 
centre, about twenty feet apart. These are opened 
in clear and moderately cold weather; and thus 
the temperature is kept at about 35° to 40° Fahren- 
heit, until a supply is wanted for market — when 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

they can be kept closed, and the celery allowed to 
ripen. 

The best material with which to cover the celery 
for long keeping is salt hay; but it can be ripened 
quickest under seaweed, which packs very closely 
when wet. One foot in thickness is sufficient for its 
protection if the outside thermometer does not go 
below zero. Some old mats or shutters may be put 
on for a short time when the weather is very cold. 
Thermometers should be provided — one to be kept 
near each end; and, if the pit is one hundred feet 
long, or more, one will be needed in the middle. 

In taking up loam for covering the roots of one 
row, another trench is obtained for setting down 
the next. A space of about six inches is usually 
left between each row and the next, to afford an 
air circulation; but, if the lot is not required to 
remain on hand long, this space is not necessary, 
and the rows may be brought close together. As 
much dirt as possible may be left on the roots 
and it will keep all the better. The roots only 
should be covered with the loam, and no part of 
the stalk. It should not be put into the pit in a 
wet condition if it is intended to have it remain 
there for any long time. 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

The Golden Heart celery is grown mostly by 
gardeners in the celery region of Kalamazoo, and 
is set in rows four and one-half feet apart, and 
four inches apart in the row; but it takes from 
six to twelve of their roots to make one of ours. 
They get about one cent per root for their celery, 
and we sell ours for prices ranging from two to 
ten cents per root. 

The varieties now most in favour are Paris 
Golden, White Plume, Giant Pascal, and Boston 
Market. The first-named is grown for earliest. 
The plants may stand quite close in the row — at 
six or eight inches apart, and with rows only 
20 inches apart. When set in this manner, every 
other row is blanched by setting up boards, running 
lengthwise, on each side of the row. The same 
method may be followed with the intervening 
rows, or they can be banked with earth after the 
first have been blanched and gone to market. 
Celery blanched with boards is more easily 
cleaned for the table or market, but the process 
is less efficient as a means of inducing crisp and 
tender growths. Paris Golden is also known as 
Golden Self-Blanching, and the designation is 
true, to a certain extent, owing to its close habit 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

and compact, erect manner of growth. This 
shapely style of growth, and also the clear golden- 
yellow colour of the hearts, and of the leaves, 
after the blanching process has been applied, 
contribute to make it a very attractive kind. It 
is a sort very easily grown; it shows well when 
put up for market; keeps well in the boxes, and 
looks well on the table; but it is not first-class 
in quality. However, for early use, large quantities 
are disposed of, and the thing that will sell is the 
thing to grow. It is usually sold from the field, 
being a sort that does not keep well in pits; and 
lasts till after Thanksgiving. 

White Plume, already spoken of, is attractive- 
looking in growth, and also when prepared for 
market is very handsome; and is of excellent 
quality. This sort is blanched by banking with 
earth until ready for market; like Paris Golden, 
it is best sold directly from the field. The inner 
stalks and leaves of this variety are naturally white. 

Giant Pascal is the variety most largely grown 
for late celery or, as it is called in Boston markets. 
Green Celery. Unsurpassed for keeping and 
will yield more bunches to the acre than any 
other of the late sorts. 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

Boston Market is the oldest of all, and when 
properly grown is still best of all. It is very 
liable to blight unless grown on moist land; it 
will keep longest of any, but all depends on it 
being grown well. 

For profit, the Paris Golden and Pascal will do 
best. The Pascal can be grown six inches apart 
in the row, three to four feet between rows and 
Boston Market the same, by the latest practice. 

The market now demands a bunch of solid 
hearts; this is made by putting two or three together. 
Preparing the celery for market is laborious 
and expensive — the most expensive stage through 
which it passes. Every separate root has to be 
dug, trimmed, knifed, washed, and packed. Some 
times two or even three roots are required to make 
a bunch equivalent to one good-sized root. It is 
usually packed in boxes, twelve to eighteen in each. 
It cannot be grown (counting every root) for less 
than two cents per root, and leave any profit to 
the grower. It is sold by market gardeners at 
wholesale, by the box of one or one and a half 
dozen, the price ranging from 75 cents per dozen 
to $3.00 for the late winter market. 

Chicory (Cichorium Intyhus) is generally 
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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

grown for the roots, which are used for adultera- 
ting coffee; but sometimes the plants, when about 
a foot high, are tied together at the top, and then 
earthed up to bleach, like celery. When so treated 
they make a good salad. The seed should be 
sown early in the spring, in drills fifteen or eighteen 
inches apart, and half an inch deep. The plants 
when well up should be thinned to six or eight 
inches. It is a poor crop to introduce on a farm, 
or in a garden, for if allowed to go to seed, it will 
spread all over the place. 

Chives (Allium Schceiioprasum) are a small, 
bulbous-rooted variety of the onion family; entirely 
hardy in any part of the United States. Of late 
years they are less grown than formerly, Then, 
no family garden was considered properly stocked 
without a few bunches of chives. They require 
no culture beyond keeping the ground free from 
weeds, and can be continuously grown on almost 
any soil year after year without change of location. 
They are propagated by dividing the root, like 
pie-plant, or rhubarb, and the sets should be put 
in at ten or twelve inches apart. The leaves or 
stalks are the edible portion, and may be repeatedly 
cut off, as they continually renew themselves during 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

the growing season. Sometimes they are used in 
soups, for flavouring; but more commonly in the 
raw state, for garnishing. In old-time gardens, 
chives were often set out as borders for vegetable- 
beds, as they needed no renewing, and their 
bright green colour was quite ornamental. 



[144] 



CHAPTER V 

VEGETABLES, ETC. — CONTINUED 

L/'ORN {Zea Mays), The common field sort is 
not a market-garden crop: yet we cannot leave 
wholly unmentioned this, the **king crop of the 
country." The cheap and easily tilled lands of 
the great West, with the labour-saving machinery 
lately brought into use, furnish this corn at such 
low prices that many farmers prefer to buy their 
supply rather than grow it. But, where there is 
suitable land that is not too valuable, it is, in our 
opinion, cheaper in the long run for the owner 
to grow his home supply. 

The soil best adapted to corn is what is generally 
called "warm" land; that is, a rather light sandy 
or gravelly loam with a porous subsoil, well 
enriched and thoroughly worked. 

There is no crop which will respond more 
quickly to careful and liberal treatment, as is 
proved by the fact that, within the last few years, 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

SO large a yield as 240 bushels of ears has been 
produced on a single acre; and this was in the 
Eastern States, where — so our Western neigh- 
bours claim — we have no good land. This is, 
of course, only a single instance, and the large 
crop was obtained by exceptionally careful culture. 

In the Middle States, or in Southern localities, 
it is well to get Northern-grown seed, which, if 
carefully selected, is sure to be earlier. Within 
the past few years some marked improvements 
have been made in varieties of field corn, which 
will, no doubt, prove permanent acquisitions; 
but farmers should not put too much confidence in 
novelties. 

Sweet Corn, also — unless when grown ex- 
pressly for extra early marketing — is too little 
profitable for a garden crop, and in fact is very 
little grown by gardeners. The principal sort 
raised in this vicinity is the Extra Early Crosby — 
that being the earliest of all. A strong, sandy 
loam is its favourite soil. It should be planted, 
for the early crop, about the first of May. Sow 
in rows four feet apart, and hills three or four 
feet apart in the row, according to the condition 
of the soil. It is usually manured in the hill 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

(besides the broadcasting) with one or two shovel- 
fuls of well-rotted manure. The corn is planted 
by hand; and, in early planting, should be covered 
not over one inch deep. Later plantings should 
be put in deeper. At thinning time four plants 
should be left in each hill. Clean culture should 
be given, and the earth should be drawn slightly 
toward the hills so that water will not stand about 
the stalks. 

If the season should prove favourable, the early 
crop should be ready for marketing about July 15th. 
At this date there would be little corn in the market 
except that brought from the South, and the ears 
should bring from twenty-five to thirty cents per 
dozen. At this price the crop from an acre would 
bring from $300 to $350. If the Extra Early 
Crosby is grown, the whole crop may be harvested 
at two pickings, and marketed before other sorts 
come in to any extent. As an additional advantage 
the land is cleared in time for a second cropping. 
The true early variety does not grow over three 
and a half or four feet high. The Early Crosby 
(an older variety) is a favourite with many 
growers and private gardeners as a medium early 
sort. 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

Early Red Cory and White Cob Cory are popular 
among some growers. They are fine yielders 
but not of extra good quality. 

Quincy Market is another sort and of better 
quality than the Corys, though not so early. 
Concord Bearsfoot is becoming one of the standard 
sorts. A great yielder and of the finest quality. 

Potter's Excelsior or Squantum is an old variety 
and still largely grown. 

The Moore's Concord is a twelve- to sixteen- 
rowed sort, not raised by market gardeners, 
because it is so late that by the time it is ready 
for picking the market is flooded. No one can 
afford to raise it except farmers who have an 
abundance of land, and to whom the stover is 
of as much value as the ears. The quality of this 
variety is most excellent, and the ears are large. 
Marblehead Mammoth is a first-rate large-eared 
variety, twelve- to eighteen -rowed, of vigorous 
growth and excellent quality; cob white, large and 
well filled; very productive and fine-flavoured, 
the largest and latest of all. Stowell's Evergreen 
is yet another late standard sort, twelve- to sixteen- 
rowed, very sweet and of good quality; keeps in a 
green state longer than any other kind. 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

Corn Salad (Valerianella olitoria), or Fetticus, 
is a peculiar vegetable, used entirely as a salad. 
In England it is largely grown. Some years ago 
it was very frequently raised among growing corn, 
but it is now considered better to give the crop 
full possession of the land. It is but little grown 
for the Boston market, but in New York there 
is quite a demand for it. It should be sown as 
early in the spring as the ground can be worked, 
in rows twelve or fifteen inches apart. If the 
weather is favourable, it should be ready for use 
in about two months from the date of sowing. 
When an early spring supply is to be provided for, 
it may be sown about the middle of September. 
The plants should receive a covering of straw, 
or marsh hay, as soon as cold weather comes. 
They start very early in the spring, and therefore 
the covering should be removed in March or early 
April. The further treatment and marketing are 
the same as with spinach. 

Cress {Lepidium sativum), or Peppergrass, is 
in some respects like Corn Salad. The culture 
is very simple. Sow in early spring, in rows twelve 
or fifteen inches apart. Make a sowing every 
ten or fifteen days, as it runs very quickly to seed. 

[149] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

The leaves, when young, have a pungent taste 
and are used as a salad, and also for garnishing. 
The Curled is the best for general use, although 
several other varieties are cultivated. 

Upland Cress (Barbarea vulgaris) is classed 
as a separate vegetable, being different from the 
common curled Cress both as regards parentage 
and habit of growth — though similarly used as a 
small salad. It is a hardy perennial, thriving on any 
soil, wet or dry. It makes an early appearance in 
spring, and grows with such extraordinary rapidity 
that in a few days it may be gathered for use, 
weeks ahead of any other out-door growths. 
It is as easy of culture as spinach, can be grown 
easily for two years without resowing, and yields 
enormous crops. The seed should be sown in 
April. 

Cucumber (Cucumis sativus). While this is 
a very important out-door crop, it is also very 
extensively grown under glass, for the Boston 
market; and cultivated in this manner (as a forced 
crop) it is probably dealt in to a larger extent here 
than in any other market in the United States. 
Almost every market gardener in this section who 
has any glass runs it, either early or late, to 

[150] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

cucumbers. As is well known, the plant is a very- 
tender one when grown out of doors, and when 
forced under glass is much more so. 

For growing in beds, the seed for the first crop 
is generally sown about the middle of March. 
When the plants are sufiiciently grown they are 
transplanted, being set four in a hill; and thirty- 
two hills being put under each 3x6 sash. They 
are left to grow in this manner until they are about 
four inches high (which usually takes about four 
weeks from the time of sowing). They are then 
removed; and each hill is placed under a 3 x 6 sash, 
and given good, steady heat, such as keeps the 
ground and roots thoroughly warm. The bed 
should be kept at an average temperature of 
about 70 degrees, corresponding to ordinary 
midsummer weather. The requisite heat is 
afforded by the heating material that has been 
placed underneath, aided by the sun, and is 
retained at night by covering with mats and 
shutters. It is regulated by means of a ther- 
mometer, and ought not to run lower than 50 
degrees at night, or higher than 90 degrees during 
the day. In case the thermometer rises higher 
than this, the beds should be cooled by raising 

[151] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

the sash. The vines are sometimes grown in 
lettuce-beds, after the lettuce has been removed, 
by putting in fresh heating material, but it is 
much better, when practicable, to make a fresh 
bed. The plants, after being established, should 
be reduced to three in a hill, as it is no advantage, 
but a drawback, to have too much vine. They 
require the same care under glass that they would 
receive in field-culture. Especially under glass 
they are a very quick-growing crop, and will 
require picking as often as four times a week. 
The picking may ordinarily be commenced about 
June 1st; and about this time the glass should 
be removed from the bed. Those gathered in 
the earliest pickings usually bring about ten cents 
each; of course as the season advances the price 
will decrease, but a hill started at the time stated 
should bring about $4.00; and later plantings 
less, according to the season and the supply. The 
early beds usually continue bearing until about 
July 15th or between six or seven weeks. 

Of late years the growing of this crop under 
sash has not had the success of former years. The 
plants have been affected with blight and insects 
that were not prevalent years ago. By the 

[ 152 ] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

method of house-culture cucumbers may be grown 
at any time during the season. Where crops 
are to be grown for continuous supply during the 
winter, the first sowing is done in August. Vines 
of this sowing will come into bearing about 
October ; and at that season of the year cucumbers 
will usually bring from five to ten cents each. 
The vines are left to bear as long as they continue 
doing well. Then the ground is cleared off, and 
another crop is put in, say of lettuce. In the 
houses the vines are not allow^ed to rest on the 
ground, as they do in the beds, but are trained on 
trellises of various styles. Thus the cucumbers 
may be seen with all facility during growth, and 
taken when ready for picking. Where cucumbers 
are grown exclusively in the houses, only two 
crops can be raised each winter. 

To get the best returns from cucumbers in the 
houses the crops should be planted so as to be 
bearing from March to June. To do this the first 
crop should be set about the middle of January 
and this crop will pick about the first of March. 
Seed for this crop is sown about the 10th of 
December and after plants are pricked out from 
the seed-bed and allowed to remain there for a 

[153] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

week or ten days they are set into six-inch pots, 
two plants to a pot. These pots will form a ball 
of dirt by the time the house is ready. 

Successive sowing of the seed should be made 
every week for houses to follow the first house 
after crops of lettuce have been pulled. 

Cucumbers in March will bring from 12 to 15 
cents each wholesale, 6 to 10 cents during April 
and 4 to 6 cents during May. 

For the first early out-door crop the plants 
should be started under glass about five weeks 
before they are wanted for transplanting. Thirty- 
two hills are started under each 3x6 sash; and 
when the fourth leaf is well out the hills are 
transplanted to the field. The roots can be 
saved from disturbance by using a piece of stove- 
pipe eight inches in diameter and six high, to cut 
down around each hill; the shovel being then 
thrust under, and the plants thus enclosed and 
supported during removal. Where sods can be 
obtained to plant in they are often used, for con- 
venience in handling; but the supply is apt to be 
deficient. The rows should be six feet apart; 
hills four feet apart in the row, and slightly elevated 
so that water cannot settle on them. 

[ 154 ] 



MARKING FOR LETTUCE PLANTS TO BE SET IN HOUSE AT 
A DISTANCE OF EIGHT INCHES APART 




^ 
C* 

h. 




LETTUCE PLANTS READY TO SET INTO THE HOUSE 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

At first a close watch should be kept for bugs: 
plaster or other dust will be effectual in repelling 
them. Cultivate as for any out-door crop. In 
the bearing season the cucumbers will generally 
bring from one to two cents apiece; and the entire 
crop of an acre, at this price, will amount to $400 
or $500. On high-priced land the entire crop 
should be marketed for the table, as growing for 
the pickle factories cannot be made to pay. For 
pickles, the seed may be put in at any time from 
the middle of June to the 20th of July. They 
may be planted as close as four feet apart, each 
way. The pickles are sold by the thousand, at 
prices which vary greatly. 

Rawson's Hot House is the best variety for 
forcing and is also fine for out-door culture. 
The cucumbers are quite long, of deep green 
colour and excellent shape. It is a variety of White 
Spine that has been brought to its present state 
of perfection by the most careful selection. The 
Early Cluster is a very popular early variety, 
which produces cucumbers in clusters. The Green 
Prolific, a pickling variety, favoured by many, 
has a similar habit of growth. The Boston 
Pickling is considered the leading pickling variety, 

[155] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

and is a heavy yielder. The Long Green is a 
well-known late variety, grown here to some 
extent for family use — more largely in England. 
The Extra Early Russian is an odd-looking, netted 
variety, very early. 

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is almost 
exclusively a Boston market crop. In this vicinity, 
the demand is such that it is grown by the acre; 
and, although there is no demand for it at present 
in other large markets, yet (as the consumption 
here is steadily increasing) it may be safely inferred 
that its use, like that of celery, is likely to become 
more general. It in some respects resembles 
endive, and certainly is one of the most healthful 
of all spring greens. 

It should be sown in drills as early in the spring 
as the ground can be worked. Although it is a 
very hardy plant, the seed must have very careful 
treatment in order to obtain a good stand, and 
should be covered not over one-fourth of an inch 
deep. The ground should then be made firm, 
so as to retain the moisture. In this section they 
succeed best on a rather light, sandy soil. It 
does not need to be very rich, or heavily manured. 
For field-culture, the rows should be put one foot 

[156] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 
apart. The dandelions, when they first come 
up, are so dark-coloured as to be almost invisible. 
A little lettuce seed, say an ounce per acre, mixed 
and sown with the dandelion, will come up quickly 
and show the rows plainly. When sown in beds, 
to be forced, the rows should be six inches apart. 
Roots may be removed from the field to a hot-bed, 
and forced, but in any case it takes somewhat 
over a year from the time of sowing to grow the 
crop. It is marketed precisely as spinach — thir- 
teen pounds weight is considered a bushel. The 
price varies greatly. On the forced crop from 
$1 to $2 is about the range of price. On the 
out-door crop $1 is considered high, the usual 
average being lower, and prices sometimes very 
low. At fifty cents per bushel, the crop is a paying 
one. When prices run high the proceeds per acre 
often reach as high as $1,000. 

There happens a failure sometimes in starting 
a crop. The sowing may be renewed any time 
before the first of August, and provided it comes 
up well, and escapes scorching by the sun, the 
crop will be just as early as one sown in April. 

Women and boys are usually employed to gather 
and trim the plants, and remove a portion of the 

[157] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

roots before sending to market; at a cost of about 
ten cents per bushel. The roots are often dried, 
and in this condition are an article of commerce, 
being used quite extensively for medicinal pur- 
poses, and in the manufacture of beer; and also 
as a substitute for coffee. 

The Improved French Thick-Leaved is a great 
improvement over the common variety; and this 
is now grown almost exclusively. It is a very 
vigorous grower, and affords a heavy yield of 
broad, thick leaves. 

Egg-Plant (Solarium melongena). The seed 
should be sown about March 15th, either in hot- 
bed or hot-house, the temperature being kept 
between 60° and 80°. 

After the plants have reached a height of three 
or four inches, they should be transplanted to 
four inches apart; and after they have made a 
stocky growth, to such size as to cover the ground, 
they should be again transplanted to eight inches 
apart. Then they may stand, and be gradually 
hardened off until it is time for setting in the open 
ground. 

The ground should be thoroughly prepared, 
and well enriched, as they are rank feeders; they 

[158] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

also require a good deal of moisture. They should 
be set in rows four feet apart, plants three feet 
apart in the row. The New York Purple is the 
principal variety grown. Black Pekin is earlier 
and hardier, but not quite so large or fine-looking. 
Early Long Purple is an oblong-fruited, early 
variety, of good quality. The fruit varies some- 
what in colour, from a very dark purple to a lighter 
shade streaked with yellow. 

Endive (Cichorium Endivia) is quite a rarity 
here; but it may soon become a popular salad. 
In New York and Philadelphia there is a con- 
siderable demand for it. 

Endive requires a good supply of moisture, 
and should be sown where it will be least exposed 
to heat and drought. As it is used principally 
during the fall months, the main sowings are 
usually made in June or July, in properly pre- 
pared beds, and the plants, after they have reached 
the proper height, are transplanted to rows two 
feet apart, with plants at intervals of six inches 
in the row. 

They have to be blanched by gathering up the 
leaves and tying them together at the top with 
bass matting, and in a month's or six weeks' time 

[159] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

(varying according to the season) the plants will 
be ready for use. 

The Green Curled is very hardy, and blanches 
easily. It is also largely used for garnishing. 

The Broad-Leaved Batavian is used to some 
extent, principally for soups, but is not nearly so 
good as the curled varieties. 

Herbs (culinary, sv^eet or medicinal) constitute 
a class of garden products, of which some 
mention should be made here. It may be remarked 
that Herbs in general love mellow and free soil; 
also, that care should be taken to harvest them 
properly, and without exposure to wet. Selecting 
a suitable day, cut them when lacking a little of 
being in full blossom, and dry them quickly in 
the shade in a secure place; after which pack 
them close in dry boxes or vessels, and keep them 
entirely excluded from the air. So treated, they 
can be kept on hand without deterioration until 
they can be sold to advantage. Still, only a few 
are raised, though the list is a long one. We 
select for description a few of the more prominent 
kinds. 

Anise (Pimpinella Anisuvi) is a native of Asia 
Minor, Greece, and Egypt. The seeds are used 

[160] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

in medicine, also in the manufacture of liquors, 
and in some parts of Europe as a spice for cooking 
purposes. Sow in April or May in a warm, rich 
soil, in a permanent location. 

Balm {Melissa officinalis). This plant is a 
native of Southern Europe. It is used for season- 
ing, and in the manufacture of certain perfumes. 
Sow in a warm location, preferably in a deep, 
sandy loam; though the plant will succeed almost 
anywhere. 

Basil, Sweet (Ocymum Basilicum), is a native 
of India. The leaves are used for seasoning, and, 
to a limited extent, for medicinal purposes. Sow 
in hot-bed or green house, if practicable, in March 
or April, and transplant to open ground after 
the weather is settled. A sandy soil is almost 
essential. 

Caraway {Carum Carui), a native of Europe, 
produces the "caraway seed" which is so uni- 
versally used for flavouring. The plant is of 
the easiest possible culture, no care being neces- 
sary, but simply to scatter the seed where the 
growth is wanted. 

Lavender {Lavandula vera) is a native of 
Southern Europe; known everywhere, and largely 

[ 161 ] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

grown in certain parts of Europe for the oil, 
which is distilled from the flowers, and is used in 
perfumes. The plant is also quiie ornamental 
and is worthy of cultivation on this account alone. 
Choose, if possible, a deep, mellow soil. 

Marjoram, Sweet (Origanum Mar jorana). This 
plant is probably a native of Portugal, though 
found in other countries of Southern Europe. It 
is grown entirely for seasoning or flavouring pur- 
poses; the leaves and the ends of the shoots being 
the parts used. Sow early in the spring in any 
good soil. 

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a native 
of Southern Europe. Its leaves, when dried, 
are used for seasoning. The plants may be grown 
from seed, but the easier mode of propagation is 
by division of the roots. A warm location should 
be chosen. 

Sage, Common (Salvia officinalis), is also a 
native of Southern Europe. The uses to which 
this herb is put are numerous, and too well known 
to be enumerated. Sow in spring wherever 
desired, and thin to six or eight inches apart in 
the row. A well-drained soil is essential. Give 
clean culture. 

[162] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

Summer Savory (Satureja hortensis). Native 
of Europe. This is one of the most common of 
cultivated herbs. The leaves and tender leaf- 
stalks are used for flavouring, and especially when 
cooked with beans impart a very pleasant flavour. 
The seed may be sown in open ground in early 
spring; or, if desired, the plants may be started 
under glass. A light, rich soil should be selected. 

Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) is cultivated in 
gardens and also found as a roadside weed ; grow- 
ing from two to four feet in height, with smooth, 
strong-scented foliage of acrid taste. T. balsamita 
is smaller, sweet-scented, with pale yellow flowers. 

Thyme {Thymus vulgaris) is a native of South- 
ern Europe. The leaves and young shoots are 
used for seasoning. The plants may be propa- 
gated either from seeds or cuttings, the former 
being preferable. Sow in early spring, and in 
midsummer transplant to five or six inches apart 
in the row or border. 

Horseradish (Cochlearia Armoracia) is raised 
from sets saved during preparation for market 
of the previous crop. These are put into the 
ground as early as the soil can be prepared. 
Plough four furrows together, and thus form a 

[163] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
ridge; along the middle of this ridge the sets are 
planted by hand, eighteen inches apart, and 
covered two inches deep. A series of ridges thus 
formed will bring the rows about three and one- 
half feet apart. A row of spinach is sown on 
one side of this ridge, and a row of beets on the 
other side, leaving the centre occupied by the 
horseradish, which is very slow in starting, so 
that the others will not interfere with it at all. 
The spinach is cut off early; and the beets, after 
they have made a proper growth, are thinned for 
greens, while those that are left to grow are soon 
gathered and bunched for early marketing. By 
this time the horseradish will have reached a 
height of five or six inches, and can now be hoed 
and cultivated. 

Before being marketed for grating, it is washed 
by putting it in tubs of water and stirring and 
brushing with a broom. It is then usually packed 
in barrels. 

For bunching, more pains must be taken, and 
the washing must be a more thorough one; after 
which it is tied up in bundles of five or six pounds 
each, and in this way brings a little extra price. 
By the barrel it usually brings from five to six 

[164] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

cents per pound; each barrelful weighing about 
one hundred pounds. 

At the foregoing price, an acre of horseradish, 
if it succeeded well, would bring a return of about 
$350. Adding for the spinach and beets, the 
total product should amount to about $600 per 
acre for the year. 

Kohl Rabi (Brassica Caulo-rapa) in some 
respects resembles the turnip, but is actually a vari- 
ety of the cabbage; the bulb is really an enlarged 
stem, of a fleshy, pulpy consistency. Its shape 
is that of an almost regular ball ; in some varieties 
about as large as an average-sized orange, while 
in others it is nearly as large as a man's head. 
In flavour it closely resembles the turnip, and 
partly also the cabbage, blending the two. It is 
highly appreciated in New York, especially 
amongst the Germans. It is in its best condition 
for use before it becomes fully grown, even while 
quite small; and is prepared for the table in the 
same manner as turnips. The seed-bed should 
be made in May or June. Transplant to rows 
three feet apart, fifteen inches apart in the row. 

The crop is fitted for market by bunching when 
green and tender; three bulbs being put in a bunch. 

[165] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

The price obtained varies from seventy-five cents 
to one dollar per dozen bunches. Any that are 
left unsold may be used for stock feeding. They 
are often grown expressly for that object. They 
may be kept as easily as turnips, and the method 
of storing is the same. The Early White Vienna 
is the leading variety. It is in the best condition 
for the table when as large as an ordinary cocoanut. 
It is then tender and of fine flavour, but later on 
becomes tough, stringy and unpalatable. Early 
Purple Vienna closely resembles the preceding, 
except that the colour of the bulb is deep purple 
instead of greenish white. There is but little 
choice between the two. The Giant White is 
larger and coarser, and the Goliath is truly a 
mammoth kind; these are raised only for stock. 
Leek {Allium Porrum) is a hardy biennial 
plant, producing an oblong bulb, or stalk, which 
has the flavour of an onion, and is used principally 
for flavouring soups and stews. It is useless to 
attempt its cultivation on light, poor land. Sow 
the seed early in May, in a well-prepared bed, 
and transplant in July to rows three feet apart, 
putting two plants to each foot of row, on land 
from which a crop of cabbage or lettuce has been 

[166] 



VEGETABLES RAISFJ3 FOR MARKET 

removed. Set them rather deep, and in cultivating 
draw up the earth, so as to bleach them slightly 
and keep them tender. 

The leek is used principally during the winter 
months, and may be stored in trenches, in the 
same manner as celery; or it may be placed in a 
cool cellar, with the roots resting on a layer of 
soil. In this way, if standing thickly together, 
they will take root slightly, and keep very fresh 
and green until late the following spring. 

The Musselburgh is the principal market variety, 
although the London Flag closely resembles it 
and is just as good. The Giant Carentan is a 
newer sort, large and of good quality, and will, 
no doubt, prove quite popular. 

Lettuce {Lactuca sativa). This is one of the 
leading crops, and is perhaps the most profitable 
one raised by market gardeners. It is a vegetable 
that is continuously grown throughout the year, 
being produced under glass in hot-houses, or 
hot-beds, in winter, and in the open ground in 
the summer. 

For forcing in hot-houses, seed is sown for plants 
of the first setting about the tenth of August, these 
are afterward transplanted into the houses. The 

[ 167 ] 



SUCCESS IN jVIARKET GARDENING 

resulting crop is ready for marketing about the 
last of October. Sowings are made about one 
week apart, from time to time, throughout the 
season, so as to give a continuous supply of plants. 
Lettuce seed is very small, and when sown under 
glass requires but little covering. One ounce 
of good seed is sufficient for four sashes of the 
ordinary size, three feet by six. 

The culture of lettuce as an out-door crop is 
comparatively easy; but when grown under glass 
it is a much more difficult crop to raise, as through 
the winter season, when the days are short and 
there is much cloudy weather, the crop is likely 
to be affected with mildew and the green fly. 

This green fly or louse is a most difficult insect 
to manage, especially when the plants have gained 
a considerable size. A good method to keep 
rid of them is to fumigate the houses thoroughly 
with the smoke of tobacco stems. This should 
be done three nights in succession. In order to 
make sure of accomplishing the work, in a week 
or ten days after the third smoking the operation 
should be repeated ; and by this process, if carefully 
and thoroughly carried out at the proper times, 
a crop already attacked may be saved; but it 

[168] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

requires thorough treatment. The tobacco stems 
should be moistened before being used, or the 
heat will be too much for the lettuce. Some skill 
and discretion are necessary to determine just 
how much to moisten them, and how to do the 
smoking in the proper manner. On these points 
a practical experience is the very best possible 
teacher, although somew^hat costly at times. After 
the first of February there is but very little trouble 
with this insect.* 

After the plants have been treated in this manner 
they will be ready for transplanting into beds or 
wherever required; while, if this treatment should 
not be given them, it is quite likely they might 
be destroyed. Occasionally, it is true, these 
insects do not trouble a crop at all ; but it is much 
the best policy to be on the safe side and use every 
precaution. 

Through damp and cloudy weather the plants 
are liable to mildew, both in the houses and in 
frames. Although not as troublesome as insects, 
mildew often destroys a crop. This can be 
avoided by keeping up as high a temperature as 
possible, while still giving plenty of air. 

* Consult Chapter Seven. 

[169] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

In transplanting lettuce, the plants should at 
first be put four inches apart, and when they have 
covered the ground should be moved to eight 
inches apart in the houses. 

In hot-beds, fifty plants are put under each 
3x6 sash, which makes the distances separating 
the plants about seven and a half inches each way. 

The price for lettuce, through the winter, 
averages about four cents per single head, or 
fifty cents per dozen. Three crops can be grown 
in the hot-houses during the winter. Three can 
be taken from the hot-beds also, if the plants are 
in the houses and grown there until the last 
transplanting. 

The heat for hot-beds, as has before been said, 
is mostly horse manure fresh from the stable; 
and it takes one cord of this for every eight sash 
for the early winter beds; but for those started 
after the fifteenth of February one cord will answer 
for twelve sash. The expense of this, all put into 
the bed and ready for use, is nearly one dollar 
per sash, reckoning the putting down of bed, 
putting on sash, mats, and shutters, and bed set 
out to lettuce; so that the cost of raising lettuce 
in the winter with four dozen under each sash is 

[170] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

twenty- jSve cents per dozen to start with; add 
cost of plants, twelve cents more; making the 
cost of raising lettuce in the winter season fifty 
cents per dozen, without reckoning in the carrying 
to market. 

The second crop can be grown much cheaper 
than the first, say at forty cents per dozen ; because 
the bed is all ready. It will require only two- 
thirds as much manure; and not over two-thirds 
as much time will be consumed in taking care 
of the second crop as of the first. Then, too, 
the spent manure that is taken out in renewing 
the beds is worth something, perhaps all of half- 
price, or we may say twenty-five cents per sash 
for use elsewhere. But, allowing for all this, I 
believe there is no profit from growing lettuce in 
hot-beds at fifty cents per dozen. In houses it 
can be grown for less than in beds, and its culti- 
vation in houses is thought to pay fairly well. 

The temperature in the houses should be kept 
between 40° and 45° in the night-time, and 
from 60° to 70° during the day. That of the 
hot-beds also should be regulated in a similar 
manner. 

In this vicinity Raw son's Hot-House and Hit- 

[171] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

tenger's Belmont have been almost exclusively the 
varieties raised for forcing; but the Black-seeded 
Tennisball is preferred for out-door culture. 

Rawson's New Hot-house is nearly double the 
size of the old White-seeded Tennisball, and 
exhibits qualities of most superior excellence. 
This kind is altogether the best yet introduced 
for growing in greenhouses and hot-beds; being 
the largest lettuce grown, and being also a sure 
header, and not liable to rot in the heart. These 
important traits make it an extremely desirable 
sort, and profitable in cultivation. 

As we have remarked, the first sowing of seed 
for plants to be forced is made about the tenth of 
August. Black-seeded Tennisball is first sown 
in February, in the houses ; and then transplanted 
to hot-beds. After being hardened off, it is set 
in the open ground about the last of April or the 
first of May, ancj will be fit for cutting about the 
first of June. The price for this lettuce is about 
the same as that grown in the houses. This is 
set, in the field, about one foot apart; or it may 
be set among cabbages; or in the onion field, 
where space has been left for a later growth of 
celery. As soon as the ground can be worked 

[172] 




PUTTING IN BOTTOM HEAT FOR A SECOND CROP OF LETTUCE 




^'^>-X'^^^^/^^ri|^"'^^*:^-i^'^^^^ 



.^;^^p^it^ 



^ -» ^«;«y 






TAKING UP PRICKERS OF LETTUCE FROM SEED BED,s; 
PLANTS THREE WEEKS OLD FROM SOWING 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

in the spring, a sowing of the black-seeded variety 
is made in the open ground ; the rows being spaced 
one foot apart, and every other row being left 
out so that celery may be set in later. When the 
plants are large enough, they are thinned so as 
to stand one foot apart in the row. 

Sowings are made in this way every ten days 
until about the twentieth of August. These sow- 
ings, taken with those made under glass, as 
described, give continuously maturing crops of 
lettuce the year round. 

Boston Curled is a very early curled sort, used 
extensively for first early out-door crops. 

Early Curled Simpson is another excellent 
curled variety, pale green in colour. It does 
not form very compact heads. Hanson is one 
of the leading "head" lettuces for house, garden 
and other out-door culture. 

The name "Cos" applied to lettuce denotes 
a class of plants distinguished by the formation 
of tall, upright-growing leaves without disposition 
to head — a defect remedied by the art of the 
grower, who gathers these leaves together and 
binds them into a compact bunch or head; when 
they blanch and grow tender, thus becoming fit 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

in their appearance and condition for market 
and for the table. 

White Paris Cos is the best of the Cos varieties. 
It is a quick grower, and has been rapidly gaining 
in popularity for the past few years. The Bath 
Cos is crisp and fine -flavoured, and extremely 
large. 

Martynia {Martynia proboscidea) . The young 
seed-pods of this plant are used to some extent for 
pickling. It is of very easy culture, and will 
succeed in almost any garden soil. 

The seed may be sown in the hot-bed — the 
plants being afterward transplanted — or may 
be sown in April in the open ground, and trans- 
planted later. They should be spaced three feet 
apart each way, as the plants are very spreading 
in habit. 

On good soil the pods are produced in abun- 
dance, and should be ready for use in July 
or August. 

Mushrooms (Agaricus campestris) , This is 
a very peculiar crop, and one that is found in 
many respects very difficult to grow. The best 
plan is as follows: Take fresh horse manure and 
shake out all the straw and coarse part, using 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

nothing but the fine portion of it. Mix this with 
fresh loam, one part loam to two parts manure, 
and turn the pile every day to keep it from burning, 
until the fiery heat is nearly all out of it. Con- 
struct the bed about four feet wide and as long 
as required, allowing the prepared material to 
stand as it is. Let it remain in this condition, 
until the temperature has become reduced to 90°; 
then make holes two or three inches deep, at a 
distance of twelve inches each way, into which 
put the spawn in pieces about as large as a hen's 
egg. Cover the spawn and let it remain undis- 
turbed for eight or ten days ; then cover the whole 
bed with fine loam, to the depth of tw^o inches, 
making it firm with the back of a shovel or spade. 
Apply water only when the soil is very dry. 

The bed must be in a covered situation, and in a 
dark place, with the temperature at about 50°, 
and the prepared soil must be kept dry from the 
commencement. If everything favours, the mush- 
rooms will appear in six or eight weeks, and will 
continue over two months. By careful appli- 
cations of water at the temperature of about 70° 
the season may be prolonged. 

MusKMELON {Cucumis Melo) . The muskmelon 
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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

will succeed best in soil naturally strong and rich, 
and on a recently turned sod. The best way is 
to turn the land over at the proper time and apply 
about five cords of manure broadcast, using a 
spreader where one can be had. After harrowing 
thoroughly the ground should be marked off for 
hills, six feet apart each way. A shovelful of fine 
manure should be applied in the hills, which should 
be slightly raised, so that water will not stand 
around the plants. Seven or eight seeds should 
be put in a hill so as to make allowance for insects. 
The planting may be done about May 15th. 

After the plants have got their fourth leaf well 
out, and have obtained a good start, they should 
be thinned to three in a hill. Cultivate both ways 
thoroughly, the same as a crop of squash or other 
vines would be treated. They should never be 
hoed or worked around when the leaves are wet 
with rain or dew. 

In picking for market, it is an easy matter to 
tell when the fruit is fit to be taken, as the under 
side of the melon will be lightly streaked with 
yellow. If picked then and exposed to the sun 
for a couple of days, they will be ready for the 
table of the consumer. 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

They are rather an uncertain crop, and are 
cultivated but very little by market gardeners in 
this section. 

Cantaloupe is our name for round kinds. These 
are usually started about May 1st, under glass, 
to be transplanted, about June 10th, to the open 
field. The bed is usually placed near the centre 
of the field where they are to be grown, and the 
seed is started on sods 9 inches by 9 inches, so 
that thirty-two hills are started under each 3x6 
sash. 

The Arlington Nutmeg is the leading first 
early variety, and is followed by the Hackensack, 
which is one of the most popular sorts for the 
main crop. The latter is of good size and of 
excellent quality. 

The Surprise is a variety of considerable merit 
for the home garden, but it is not large enough 
for market. 

Montreal Market is the largest melon of its 
class in cultivation, and derives its name from 
being originated and largely grown in the vicinity 
of Montreal. This is started under glass, earlier 
than the others, and is grown almost invariably 
in the beds until the time of picking. It is a very 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

thick-meated, green-fleshed sort, and is considered 
the best sort, for table use, in existence. Good 
specimens of its fruit, well grown and ripened, 
often bring as high as $1 each, at wholesale. As 
they produce more vines than the other varieties 
they must be given more room. Where one hill 
is planted under a sash the beds should be set so 
that the hills will be twelve feet apart the other 
way. One plant per hill, at this distance, is suf- 
ficient. In picking for market, it has to be noted 
that the fruit is never ripe until the stem will 
part readily from it. 

Mustard (Sinapis alba and nigra). Used to 
some extent for greens, early in the spring, but 
more especially as a salad. It may be sown in 
the open ground (almost any time after the soil 
can be properly prepared), in rows twelve inches 
apart: also may be forced in the hot-bed, or hot- 
house, and thus may be had at all seasons of the 
year; but the demand is small. 

White Mustard is the variety best liked as a 
salad; and the seed, which is of a very bright 
yellow colour, affords, when ground, the mustard 
which we use on our tables. Black-seeded is 
much like the preceding, except that the seed 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

is very dark in colour and the leaves are a trifle 
more pungent. It is used both as a salad and for 
manufacturing into table mustard. 

Okra (Hibiscus esculentus) is grown for its 
seed pods, which, when young and tender, are used 
in soups and stews; but sales in the Boston 
market are very light. It is of very easy culture, 
as it succeeds on almost any soil, and after the 
plants are once up and growing is quite hardy. 
But the seeds should not be put in till the weather 
is warm and fairly settled — say about the 10th 
of May — as they are liable to rot if placed in 
the soil when it is cold and soggy. In this one 
respect they are very tender, and are found difficult 
to start except under favourable conditions. There 
are but two varieties on the list; these are the Tall 
and Dwarf kinds. 

In the culture of either, the planting should 
be in drills, and the covering two inches deep. 
If the Dwarf variety is planted at eighteen inches 
between the drills, it will have space enough; 
but in cultivating the larger variety, three or three 
and a half feet will be none too much to leave 
between the rows. This plant is one which 
requires nearly the whole season to complete its 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

growth; but, if desired, a few seeds may be started 
in the hot-bed or hot-house about four weeks 
before they are wanted for setting out of doors ; and 
in this way they may be hurried forward. 

When used in soups, okra imparts a viscous 
or gummy consistency, and a peculiar flavour 
which, to most people, is very agreeable. 



1180] 



CHAPTER VI 

VEGETABLES, ETC. — CONTINUED 

1 HE Onion (Allium Cepa), as a paying field crop 
ranks next to cabbage. For the early supply, 
grown for bunching, onion sets are used. These 
should be planted in rich soil, using from six to 
ten bushels per acre, according to the size of the 
sets. Seed is also sown at the same time for plants 
to follow, and maintain the supply. Six pounds 
of seed are required for an acre. For raising 
sets, twenty-five pounds of seed are required, 
which should be grown on rather poor land, 
so that they may not run to tops or grow too large. 
The white sets are put out in the spring as soon 
as the ground can be worked, three inches apart, 
in rows one foot apart, reserving every sixth row 
for celery. This work is usually done by boys, 
and the sets are covered in with a rake by a man 
who follows, walking in the vacant row. Only 
two weedings will be required; but when seed 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
is sown three are necessary, and the plants arc 
thinned to three inches. 

The sets will be large enough for pulling abcuL 
the middle of June. They are bunched for market, 
five in a bunch at first, and four when they are 
larger. The pulling continues through July. The 
price obtained for those first marketed is about 
sixty cents per dozen bunches, and the average 
of the whole crop may be from thirty-five to forty 
cents. The proceeds of an acre should be from 
$600 to $800, and $300 should cover the cost of 
growing. 

Yellow sets do not differ as to culture from the 
white, but are not used for bunching. Soon after 
the tops drop over (about July 1st), the onions 
are pulled up and left to dry on the ground. 
When they are thoroughly dry the tops are cut 
off, and the onions are boxed or barrelled for sale. 
The average yield (leaving out the sixth row for 
celery) is about 500 bushels per acre, and they will 
bring a price between 75 cents and $1.50 per 
bushel. In raising late crops for storing, seed 
is used exclusively, and the plants are thinned 
to one inch instead of three. These crops are 
allowed to dry thoroughly in the ground before 

[182] 




DIGGING PARSNIPS FROM PIT TO SEND TO WASH-SHED 
FOR MARKET 




PARSNIPS IN TUBS READY TO WASH 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

harvesting. They should be stored in bins or 
boxes where a steady, cool temperature can be 
kept up. For fall onions the price obtained is 
usually about $2.50 per barrel. 

Of late years many market gardeners have also 
grown onions from prickers, the Prizetaker and 
Danvers varieties being sowed, preferably the 
former, on account of large size. Seed is sown 
in beds about the 20th of February, fairly thick, and 
are set out into the field about the middle of April 
or the first of May. The yield per acre is much 
greater than with the sets, but they do not mature 
so early. 

Until modern inventions of the labour-saving 
sort came forward, very largely superseding the 
old methods of hand-cultivation, the sowing and 
growing of this valuable and remunerative crop 
were an extremely tedious and laborious business. 
Now, after the preparation of the beds has been 
properly accomplished, a smart boy of sixteen 
will seed more ground in a day, and do it better, 
than twenty men could at the time when seed drills 
were unknown; and the labour of the after-culture 
during the growth of the plants has been almost 
equally lightened by modern devices. 

[ 183 ] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

The ground must be such as has been well 
enriched with long and liberal manuring; and 
recent addition of green manures must not be 
relied upon for affording the close-growing plants 
their proper nutrition. The tilth should be as 
perfect as it can be made, and the plants must 
have the cleanest possible culture. 

The Yellow Danvers and the White Portugal, 
or Silver Skin, are the kinds grown almost exclu- 
sively for this market, from sets and from seeds. 
In some localities where red onions are in favour, 
the Red Wethersfield is highly esteemed. It is 
a very productive, large sort. 

Parsley {Carum Petroselinum) is kept at all 
seasons in continuous growth, either under glass 
or in the open ground. Seed is sown out-of-doors 
as soon as the ground can be worked, in drills about 
one foot apart. The plants for forcing are kept cut 
down during the summer, and in the fall are placed 
under glass, three inches apart, in rows about 
six inches apart. The pickings may be repeated 
often during the season, after which the roots are 
worthless. 

The Fine Curled is the variety chiefly grown, 
and is in fact the most desirable. The Moss 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 
Curled, though similar, is a little more crimped. 
Plain Parsley is the smooth-leaved sort, used 
mainly for flavouring. It is hardier, and its 
leaves are larger and of a deeper green than those 
of the other sorts named. The average returns, 
per sash 3x6, from forced parsley would be 
from $3.00 to $4.00. 

Parsnips {Pastlnaca saliva) require careful 
attention to secure proper germination. Thorough 
preparation of soil and early sowing will promote 
that result. Sow in rows twelve inches apart. 
It is well to sow some of the seed in beds about 
five feet wide, as these parsnips will be ready 
for bunching in August and will bring a fair 
price. 

Make the covering not over half an inch deep, 
and thin to four inches apart. Any convenient part 
of the crop may be left to stand in the ground over 
winter (as they are improved by frost), and may 
be dug for marketing any time after the frost is 
out. Parsnips will do better (and especially in 
case they are to remain in the ground over winter) 
if sown on ridges formed by lapping two furrows 
together, each ridge planted with two rows. The 
ridges should be thirty inches apart. 

[185] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

Of the varieties the Hollow Crown is by far 
the best. Not only is it easier to grow but it has 
a much readier sale in the market. 

Arlington Long Smooth is still grown extensively, 
but it requires a deep loam, and is very hard to dig. 

Guernsey is another sort, but is not so popular 
as Hollow Crown. 

Peas (Pisum sativum), which have been in 
past years highly profitable, now yield fluctuating 
and uncertain returns, owing to the shipments of 
Southern growers. Where cabbage is to follow, 
the early upright-growing sorts are usually sown 
in three-and-a-half foot rows. Three feet apart 
does well for American Wonder. When squashes 
are to follow, two double rows are put in three and 
a half feet apart, and then a space is reserved about 
five feet wide, for planting squashes before the 
peas are ready to be removed. 

The pea comes earliest to maturity in light, 
rich soil; but for the general crop, a deep loam, 
or a soil strongly inclining to clay, is the best. 
Plant as early as the weather will permit, in well- 
prepared ground; cover one inch deep and the 
seeds will come earlier than if deeper. Later 
sowings may be covered from two to six inches 

[186] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

deep; the deep planting tends to prevent mildew, 
and to prolong the season. 

When a sufficient quantity of manure is available 
it is always best to manure the peas broadcast 
before sowing. When manure is applied in this 
way, the peas will get as much of it as they need, 
and the balance will remain for the later crop. 
When it is intended to cultivate in this manner, 
the early varieties are always sown, as the late 
ones would not get off soon enough. For the 
early crops mild manure such as leaf mould will 
do well, but leaves not much for the following 
crop ; and if the soil is very poor, a stronger manure 
will be needed to grow the peas. 

Fresh manures and wet, mucky soils are to be 
avoided, as they cause the vines to grow rank and 
tall: the plants make a great growth in vines, 
but fail to develop and mature the pods. 

Sowing should be begun as soon as the ground is 
fit to work, and continued at intervals of a week or 
ten days until the first of May. For a continuous 
supply during the season, make plantings until the 
last of June; then sowings should be discontinued 
until the middle of August, when an extra early 
sort will sometimes produce a good crop. 

[187] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

All the wrinkled sorts are superior to smooth 
sorts in every respect except earliness; they are 
more delicate in flavour, richer in saccharine 
matter, and remain longer in season. The market 
gardener, however, is not disposed to keep the 
vines long in bearing, as he usually wants the land 
cleared for other use. The earliest and the quick- 
est-growing sorts are the best in that case. 

Amongst all the numerous varieties offered, 
the very earliest is undoubtedly Rawson's Clipper. 
When first brought forward, in the spring of 1886, 
it had proved on our trial grounds to be the earliest 
in cultivation. It has now been in the hands of 
one of our most experienced growers for over 
twenty years, and after careful tests has proved 
earlier by several days than any other. 

It is very uniform in growth and distinct in 
habit, about thirty inches in height, profusely 
covered with well-filled pods. It is one of the 
sweetest and best-flavoured of the smooth varieties. 
The entire crop can be gathered in two pickings; 
it is a very productive and valuable market 
variety. 

Among the early wrinkled varieties Gradus, 
Thomas Laxton and Sutton's Excelsior have 

[188] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

taken the place of the old American Wonder and 
Nott's Excelsior. 

Gradus and Thomas Laxton are varieties similar 
in habit, with enormous pods, fairly well filled and 
of tenderest flavour. They are great yielders and 
invaluable for the market gardener. 

Sutton's Excelsior is an English variety of 
superior merit. Very early, bearing large-sized 
pods abundantly on rather dwarf vines. 

For a medium early crop a good strain of the 
old McLean's Advancer is desirable. 

Of the late sorts, Stratagem and Telephone 
have the call. Many of the market gardeners 
grow an early wrinkled sort, as Excelsior, in suc- 
cession rather than the taller-vined sorts, as 
Stratagem and Telephone, on account of saving 
of labour in bushing and freedom from mildew 
during the dull days of August, to which the tall 
sorts are subject. 

All the late kinds need wider planting than the 
early dwarf sorts — about four feet between rows 
is not too much. The number of bushels of pods 
raised from a bushel of seed peas varies from one 
hundred to one hundred and fifty ; the price (though 
depressed and irregular as a consequence of 

[189] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

shipments from the South disturbing the market, 
especially as regards the early crop) will average 
about one dollar per bushel. 

Peppers {Capsicum annuum) are usually sown 
under glass about April 1st, and should not be 
transplanted to the open ground until the weather 
is warm and settled — say about June 1st, in this 
locality. They are a family of plants exhibiting 
very remarkable diversities in shape, size and 
colour, as well as in the more or less pungent 
taste by which they are characterized; some 
changing, as they ripen, from the green colour 
of the young pod to various brilliant shades of 
red, and others to yellow and orange tints of like 
intensity — thus becoming in the highest degree 
ornamental and interesting, but of course not any 
more valuable to carry to market. 

All Peppers require a warm, mellow soil, and 
heavy manuring applied either before or during 
growth. The rows may be set eighteen inches 
apart, and the plants a foot apart in the rows. 

Of certain sorts, the pickle factories use large 
quantities, which are grown at very sm.all prices 
on contracts; but our market gardeners raise 
peppers only in very small lots; merely enough to 

[190] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

supply the retail trade. The Squash or tomato- 
shaped variety is the kind chiefly grown for the 
pickle factories, and is well adapted, being thick- 
fleshed, of pungent flavour, very productive and 
of good size. 

The Bell, or Bull Nose, is a large and mild- 
flavoured variety, and is one of the most popular. 
The Sweet Mountain, or Mammoth, resembles 
the Bell in some respects, and is perhaps just as 
desirable, being similar in shape, not unlike in 
flavour, and larger; while in the same class with 
these old and well-known varieties comes the 
new Ruby King, of larger growth and milder 
flavour than either — in many respects a superior 
kind, and unequalled by any other. It commonly 
attains a size of from four and a half to six inches 
long by about four inches through. The fruit 
is so mild and pleasant to the taste that it may 
be sliced and eaten with pepper and vinegar as 
is done with tomatoes or cucumbers, and when 
thus used makes a very agreeable salad. The 
plant is of a sturdy, bushy habit of growth. 

Long Cayenne is the strong pungent variety 
with which every one is acquainted. It is very 
late, and the pods while still young and green are 

[191] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

frequently used for pickling. Another very hot 
and pungent variety, of similar quality but not 
quite so acrid, and of entirely different habit of 
growth, is the Red Cluster; in which the small, 
thin peppers, of a coral-red colour, stand crowded 
together in bunches at the top of each branch. 
It closely resembles the Chili, from which variety 
it originated. 

The Potato (Solanum tuberosum) prefers soils 
of a sandy or gravelly nature, although it will 
succeed, to some extent, on all soils ranging 
between a light loam and a stiff clay, provided there 
is just the right amount of moisture. But it is 
worse than folly to attempt to grow potatoes on 
land that is waterlogged, or not well and thoroughly 
drained, either by natural or artificial means. 
A newly turned sod, other things being favourable, 
forms the best potato land. In our own experience 
(especially on land that has been heavily manured 
for previous crops), the use of stable manure, 
or of wood ashes, somewhat promotes the "scab"; 
commercial fertilizers have given us much the 
smoothest crop. Whatever manuring is applied 
should, as a rule, be put on broadcast. On some 
lands, exceptionally light and dry, level culture 

r 192 1 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

may prove the best; but we have succeeded better 
by a moderate hilling up. This seems to keep 
the land light and friable. Make the cultivator 
and shovel-plough do all the hilling, and most 
of the hoeing. For this purpose, put the rows 
three feet apart. Drop the seed ten or twelve 
inches apart in the row; cut to one eye, around 
which leave a good portion of the substance of 
the tuber, so that the young growths may have 
plenty of nourishment until the roots get well 
established. 

Two or three times, before the crop comes up, 
a smoothing harrow should be run over the piece, 
destroying the young weeds as soon as they start. 
The Colorado beetles, or potato bugs, formerly 
so much dreaded, are now disposed of very easily 
by the use of Slug Shot or Paris green; either is 
death to the bugs. 

The selection and cutting of seed are important 
points. We recommend medium-sized tubers, 
cut to one eye. The tuber itself is not a seed, 
but merely an enlargement of the underground 
stem, and in planting tubers, either entire or cut, 
we are putting in, not seeds, but slips or cuttings, 
in which size is not essential; but probably it is 

[193] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
better, as a rule, to use well-shaped, medium- sized 
ones, cut to a single eye. 

In a potato tuber held stem end down, it may 
be seen that the eyes are arranged in regular 
ascending rotation. For advantageously dividing 
it to single eyes (as is more especially necessary to 
those who buy new and valuable varieties), the 
following method is adopted: 

An indentation will be found in each tuber, 
clearly indicating which is the stem end. The 
cuts, to be made v/ith a thin-bladed knife, are 
all sloped toward it; each cut removes one eye, 
proceeding, in succession, from the lowest to the 
highest. Humphrey's potato knife is one specially 
devised, with a blade of curved and concave shape, 
for cutting out single eyes in general accordance 
with the above method, and possesses some 
advantages over an ordinary knife, for that service. 
Cultivation of the young plants should com- 
mence as soon as they are fairly above the surface 
of the ground, and continue until the appearance 
of the blossoms, when no further attention will 
be required until the time of harvesting the crop. 

At each successive hoeing, bring up earth against 
the plants, adding a little each time both for 

[ 194 ] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

support to the stalks and also to develop the side- 
shoots. 

For digging the crop, there is at present no more 
satisfactory implement provided than the digging- 
fork or the potato-hook. There are, to be sure, 
already several different implements designed and 
constructed, and to some extent, perhaps, put 
to use for employing the labour of horses in loosen- 
ing and lifting the tubers from the soil. But the 
best of them — the very latest as well as the earlier 
ones — have attained but a very moderate degree 
of success, even when working under fairly favour- 
able conditions; and in stony or mucky soils will 
not do the work. There is still a fortune in waiting 
for the man who invents a completely successful 
machine digger. 

Varieties are so numerous, and many are so 
little distinct, that to mention even a quarter of 
them would be confusing. The Early Rose has 
an almo3t endless number of closely related kinds, 
such as Early Sunrise, Early Gem, Chicago 
Market, Early Vermont and others. Standard 
favourites are the early and late varieties of 
Beauty of Hebron, Green Mountain, Irish Cobbler, 
Early Norwood, Bovee and Uncle Sam. 

[195] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

Whatever variety is most popular should be 
chosen to plant for market; and where there is 
close similarity it is evident that soil and cultivation 
are of far more importance than choice of a kind. 

Radish {Raphanus sativus). Until within the 
past few years, culture of radishes was confined to 
the open ground; but now the growing of this 
crop under glass has assumed important propor- 
tions. 

For growing in hot-houses the Scarlet Globe 
is almost the sole variety used, as it has a short top, 
is a quick grower and of good quality. The seed 
is sown at any time during the cold season, from 
October to April. The crop is usually ready for 
pulling about eight weeks from the sowing of the 
seed. The temperature should be kept rather 
low, say from 45 degrees to 60 degrees. Grown 
in this manner it will be seen that three crops 
may be grown under the same glass each 
season. 

The soil required to grow them to perfection 
is a loose, sandy loam; and it should be well 
worked, with a liberal quantity of well-rotted 
manure thoroughly mixed in. The seed is sown 
in rows about four inches apart; and the plants 

[196] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 
are thinned to about two inches apart in the 
row. When about three-fourths of an inch in 
diameter, they are pulled and bunched, ten in a 
bunch. The price varies from fifty cents to one 
dollar per dozen bunches; but even at the smaller 
price they are considered a profitable crop. 

When grown in hot-beds, they are usually 
grown following a crop of lettuce; as, when the 
lettuce has been grown the heat is then nearly 
spent, and the loam is in just about the right con- 
dition for growing a crop of radishes. It is more 
suitable than a fresh bed; which would be likely 
to stimulate an excessive growth of the tops. 

They are grown in rows four inches apart, and 
thinned to three inches in the row. Sometimes a 
crop of carrots is grown with them; and, when 
this is done, every third row is left out for the 
carrots. After the radishes are taken off, the 
carrots will occupy the ground to advantage. 
The glass can be taken from the bed early in the 
spring and used for some other crop. 

In order to have a succession for constant 
pulling, it is necessary to make sowings every 
week or ten days, from the first of April to the 
middle of June. The radishes will require thin- 

[197] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

ning, say to three inches apart. When pulled, 
they are put eight in a bunch. 

Besides the varieties we have mentioned, the 
following are grown to some extent in home 
gardens and for special consumption: French 
Breakfast and Early Scarlet Olive-Shaped (both 
good forcing varieties, good also for out-door 
culture) and White Tip Scarlet Turnip. 

The winter varieties are but little grown. The 
Black Spanish and Chinese Rose Winter are the 
leading ones, and when grown for winter use 
should be stored in sand, in order to keep them 
fresh. 

Rhubarb {Rheum hyhridum) is now quite 
extensively grown, both in field culture and forced 
under glass. It is generally propagated from 
plants obtained by dividing the heavy, fleshy root, 
which grows to a considerable size in plants long 
established; and these are improved by the removal 
of a part — also by occasional transplantings to 
new grounds. 

\Mien raised from seed, the sowing is to be done 
in April, in drills about one inch in depth. 

A deep, very rich retentive soil is desirable for 
growing such large and tender stalks as the market 

[198] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

demands, and for bringing them forward in good 
season. A few days lost or saved in getting into 
market often makes a difference of one-half in the 
price. 

The first pulling of the out-door crop is usually 
made the last of April or the first of May, and 
the plants continue to furnish a supply until about 
the first of July. It is put up in bushel boxes 
and will return from $2.00 per box at the start 
down to 35 cents during May. 

The crop is forced either by setting thickly in 
hot-beds or hot-houses, or by leaving roots about 
three feet apart in the ground where they have 
grown, and setting cold-frames over them. The 
glass is put on about the first of February. The 
price on forced crop varies even more than that 
of out-door growth; but $5.00 is a fair estimate 
of average returns from each 3x6 sash. 

The two varieties best known here are the Lin- 
naeus, early, large and tender; and the Victoria, 
also large, but later; of the two the former is the 
better kind, though both are good. 

Another sort, very superior to either, and in 
fact better than any other variety known, is the 
Paragon, earliest of all, and very productive. 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

It is not inclined, as are some other sorts, to run to 
seed. The leaf is small, while the stalks are large 
and heavy. 

Salsify {Tragopodon porrifolius). Culture of 
this vegetable, although limited, is increasing. 
It is also known under the name of Oyster Plant, 
or Vegetable Oyster. It should be sown early, 
in drills fifteen inches apart ; the seeds to be covered 
an inch and a half deep. The crop will succeed 
best when grown on a light, sandy loam, well 
enriched and very thoroughly worked before 
sowing. The after culture is much the same 
as for carrots or parsnips. The spring supply 
may, if desired, be left in the ground over winter, 
as the roots are not injured at all by freezing. 

In marketing, the roots are tied in bunches 
of twelve each, none but good-shaped ones being 
used. The Mammoth Sandwich Island is the 
best kind, very smooth and white, growing double 
the size of the Long White, and of excellent 
quality. 

Sea Kale {Cramhe maritima). This vegetable 
produces blanched shoots which are cooked and 
eaten in the same manner as asparagus. It is 
less extensively cultivated than it deserves to be. 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

The seed is sown early in the spring, in drills 
fourteen inches apart, and covered one inch deep. 
After the young plants are up, thin to six inches. 
It is a perennial plant, and requires to be trans- 
planted the following spring, into ground that has 
been thoroughly trenched and well manured, 
being then placed in hills three feet apart each way. 

Late in the fall, when the leaves have separated 
from the crown, heap over each plant a shovelful 
of clean sand, and earth up a ridge a foot and a 
half high over the rows, from a trenching dug 
along the space between them, and beat it smooth 
with the back of the spade. 

In the spring, after the cutting is over, the earth 
should be levelled back into the trenches, so as to 
expose the crowns of the plants; and a good coat of 
strong manure should be spread and dug around 
them. There is only one variety in cultivation. 

Spinach {Spinacia oleracea) is fast becoming 
one of the leading crops of our market gardens, 
being sold and used during the whole of the year. 
For winter use it is usually brought from the 
South. The crop that comes early in the spring 
is usually sown about the first of September, and 
at the beginning of winter is protected with a 

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SUCCESS IN IVIARKET GARDENING 

covering of hay or boughs. This crop generally 
lasts until about June 1st, when that sown in the 
spring will be ready for marketing. 

It is sold by the bushel. The receipts of an 
acre when the yield was generally large would 
be about $200, while if the crop was scarce it 
might reach as high as $1,000. In spring culture 
frequent sowings are usually made to furnish 
a continuous supply. 

It is sown in drills, three feet apart, and thinned 
to about twelve inches apart in the row; though 
the New Zealand (a very large hot weather kind, 
not much cultivated) requires intervals of two 
feet or more. 

The drop will bear a liberal amount of manure, 
and for the fall-sown crop a dressing of about 
seven hundred pounds of sulphate of ammonia is 
usually given in the spring. 

For the spring sowing the Round Thick-leaved 
is used, and for later use the Long Standing; 
so called because it stands longer (by about three 
weeks) without going to seed than any other 
variety. In fall sowing for spring cutting the 
Arlington Pointed Leaf is the favourite, as it is 
choice and hardy. The Prickly, or Fall Spinach, 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

is a prickly seeded sort, with triangular oblong, 
or arrow-shaped leaves, the hardiest of all; mostly 
used for fall sowings. The Savoy-Leaved is a 
curled sort of good quality, and very ornamental 
in appearance. 

Squash (Species of Ciicurbita) is very largely 
cultivated for all markets. As it is a tropical plant, 
in Northern latitudes the season is too short for 
maturing the later varieties. They are exceedingly 
tender, and must not be planted in the spring till 
all danger from frost is over. 

There are two quite distinct kinds — Early 
Bush and Running; the last-named being later. 
The Summer Crookneck and the Bush Scallop 
belong to the former. The cultivation of both 
these varieties is the same. Plant in rows six 
feet apart, with hills four feet apart in the row. If 
the weather at transplanting favours, a week's 
time may be saved by starting under glass. They 
mature with us about the 4th of July. In some 
localities the Bush Scallop is preferred, but in 
the Boston market the Crookneck is more sought 
for. 

The Early Prolific Marrow is planted about 
the same time, and matures about four weeks 

[203] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

later. The hills are put nine feet apart each way; 
with a liberal amount of seed in each hill, as the 
plants are just coming on in the height of the bug 
season. Cover the seed about one inch deep. 
Manure with about six cords of stable manure 
per acre, mainly spread on broadcast, but put one 
shovelful in each hill, and with the latter mix 
one shovelful of coal ashes to protect them from 
the borers. When planted with spring greens on 
ground manured with twenty cords per acre, the 
dressing in the hill may be omitted. The dark, 
oblong-shaped Marrow is a very saleable sort, 
on account of the colour; but its keeping qualities 
are very poor. The true Boston Marrow is light- 
coloured and quite round, and when planted late 
will keep almost as well as the Hubbard. 

Next in order comes the Bay State; after it the 
Turban, which is followed by the Essex Hybrid. 
The two last-named are nearly alike in appearance, 
the only difference being that the Hybrid has a 
hard shell. The Hybrid is much the better keeper 
of the two — is more productive and is also of 
better quality. 

The Bay State is superior to either, uniting in 
itself a long list of desirable qualities — such as 

[204] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 
extraordinary weight and solidity of flesh, fineness 
and dryness of grain and sweetness of flavour. 
It has also an extremely hard shell — always a 
sign of superior keeping qualities. The colour 
of the shell is green, but the flesh is of a bright 
golden yellow. It is equally productive with the 
Hybrid. 

In form and general appearance, it bears some 
resemblance to the Essex Hybrid, but has a more 
deeply corrugated surface. 

As these later varieties make more vine than 
the Marrows, they should be planted as much as 
eleven feet apart each way. They are often put in 
with a crop of beans or peas, two rows of peas or 
beans being cultivated in each interval between 
the squash rows; and these can be harvested and 
out of the way before the vines crowd upon them. 
These two varieties reach maturity about the last 
of August, and continue bearing through September 
and October, or until frost. The Turban must 
be marketed soon after picking; but the Hybrid 
and Bay State may be kept well into the winter. 
Among the varieties maturing latest are the 
Hubbard and Victor Marblehead ; of which the first 
is almost universally preferred. 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

Squashes are sold by weight, with the exception 
of the summer varieties. These are sold by the 
dozen. The price obtained is very variable. 
None of the varieties are accounted a paying crop 
unless they bring at least fifteen dollars per ton. 

When picking for storing great care should be 
taken not to bruise them or break off the stems. 
They are brought from the fields in wagons and 
put in piles, to remain until quite dry, and then 
stored in an even temperature as near 50 degrees 
as possible. 

The Tomato {Lycopersicum esculentum) holds a 
high place amongst vegetables in general estima- 
tion, both for its use in a fresh state, and for 
canning and manufacturing into catsup; so that its 
extended and still increasing cultivation is a subject 
peculiarly interesting to market gardeners of the 
country. Within the past twenty years, the tomato, 
from an almost unknown and little-considered 
product of a few small gardens, has grown into 
popular favour to such an extent that the area of its 
cultivation is now reckoned in thousands of acres, 
and will doubtless continue to be further enlarged 
as population increases; especially about its chief 
centres and near the canning establishments. 

[ 206 ] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

During this period of expanding cultivation 
there has been great improvement in varieties, 
not so much in respect of earliness, perhaps, as 
in size and quality. 

In order to induce a stocky growth, the young 
plants are twice transplanted. The second trans- 
planting should be made before the plants com- 
mence to crowd and grow spindling, and this 
time they should be put eight inches apart. This 
last transplanting is always' made in hot-beds, 
but the first is usually made in the house; the 
plants being put four inches apart. 

About the 25th of May the plants sown the 
middle of February may generally be set in the 
open ground; and should be planted in rows six 
feet apart, with plants five feet in the row. The 
tomatoes usually follow a crop of spinach; and 
but little additional manure is applied except 
in the hill; five or six cords per acre are usually 
put on where the crop does not follow spinach; 
but merely for hills about two cords will be 
suflicient, and will push the crop along wonder- 
fuUy. 

In very rich soil a tendency to grow too much 
to vines may be expected. The best results, 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

both in quality and quantity, and of course the 
earliest-ripened fruit, will be secured from a 
warm, light soil, moderately fertilized with well- 
rotted manure in the hills, and in a sunny location. 

Four feet apart in the row will do for the hills 
in the case of the early crops, to be raised on light, 
sandy soil. For culture on heavy, rich soil (only 
suited to the later crop) five feet apart will be 
needed. 

The young plants should be given water freely 
at the time of transplanting; and may need some 
shelter from the sun for a few days, or until they 
become well established in their new location. 

Some cultivators dip the roots and stems in 
a puddle or grout, when planting out, after 
the method we have advised for cabbage, and 
report that the addition of a small amount of 
kerosene oil stirred into the grout, operates as 
an efficient preventive of the cutworm. A mixture 
is made of equal parts of manure fresh from the 
cow stall and fine clay dust; this stirred up with 
water, and a handful of cotton meal to a bucketful 
of the mixture, makes an adherent puddle; into 
which is put a half-teacupful of the kerosene. 

This difficulty with the cutworm is seldom exper- 
[208] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

ienced by those who keep their ground under 
continual tilth throughout the whole season, as 
such culture serves materially to discourage and 
drive off these and similar pests. 

As with squashes, and indeed with all other 
plants of a climbing or running habit, it is very 
conducive to stockiness and vigour of growth 
in the vines (and therefore to solidity and soundness 
of the fruit) to keep them well shortened back, 
by pinching off the extremities of the tops, and, 
more or less, of the secondary shoots which may 
show themselves above the earliest blossoms. 
This will develop a more stocky growth and will 
also hasten the maturity of the first fruits which 
set. 

It is no longer considered good practice to 
allow the vines to trail upon the ground for lack 
of some support such as may be afforded by a 
trellis or in any similar way. This is often ac- 
complished by what is called ''hoop-training." 
Drive three stakes and fasten barrel-hoops to these. 
Another very good way is to use only two stakes 
and a single hoop; these stakes to stand three and 
a half feet high from the ground; and the hoop, 
which should be broad, flat and strong, to be well 

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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

nailed to the stakes at about three feet from the 
ground. 

With the same object in view, a portable tomato- 
trellis is now made and sold, which serves well. 
Its construction is simple, cheap and durable. 
It is certainly a great convenience in tomato- 
growing. Either of the foregoing methods serves 
to prevent the tomatoes from lying on the ground; 
and thus develops and matures fruit that would 
otherwise go to decay, or at least fail to ripen off; 
and, furthermore, greatly facilitates cultivating 
and gathering the crop. 

Near Boston the first picking is often made 
by the tenth of July, and at that early date usually 
brings a good price, sometimes as high as ten 
dollars per bushel; but the market soon declines, 
and often falls below paying prices. The average 
product of an acre may be reckoned at about $400. 

The tomato is grown also in hot-houses, being 
started in the fall from seed ; or may be grown from 
slips or cuttings. While the method of propa- 
gation by cuttings has been recommended and 
practised by some, especially for the later crop, I 
think it is far better to grow both late and early 
crops from the seed; as vines from cuttings are 

[210] 




'> 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

found to be far less productive; and the plants 
from seed can be secured for any date in the 
season by timely sowing. 

For spring crop in the house seed should be 
sown the latter part of December and pricked off 
about three inches apart. In about two weeks 
the young plants can be potted into 4-inch pots 
in order to facilitate handling later on. By the 
first of March they will be ready to set into the 
house. Plant 20 to 24 inches apart. As plants 
grow, trellis or string them to wires overhead to 
support the plants. 

They should begin to bear in May and last till 
August. Care should be taken to keep the air in 
the house as dry as possible, to prevent mildew. 

For the house-grown product the price is some- 
times as high as fifty cents a pound ; and they con- 
tinue to yield good profits to the grower until 
shipments begin to arrive from the South. There 
are but a very few varieties suited for forcing, 
and among these the Lorillard is an established 
favourite. Comet and Wilson's Market Garden 
are new varieties especially recommended for 
forcing. 

For out-door culture the varieties catalogued are 
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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

numerous enough, but there are few of real merit. 
Rawson's Puritan has been grown by us for 
several years as a leading early variety, and has 
proved not only to be one of the earliest but one of 
the most profitable in culture as a market variety. 

Another early variety is Belmont, one which well 
maintains its claim to a front rank among tomatoes ; 
being handsome in colour, ripening perfectly 
throughout and not inclined to crack or rot. 

Earliana is the first early market variety; of 
good size and quality; but, of course, the very early 
sorts cannot be expected to be as solid, nor as 
good in flavour, as those maturing later. 

The best main-crop sort is the Stone. Large, 
firm, of bright scarlet colour, and a great yielder. 

Only leading varieties have been mentioned. 

Turnip {Brassica Rapa) . This crop is not very 
extensively grown in the market garden, as the 
demand is limited. The flat varieties are the only 
ones cultivated for early mg^rketing. 

The soil best adapted to the crop is a sandy or 
gravelly loam, well enriched and thoroughly 
worked. The seed should be sown as early in the 
spring as the ground can be worked, in drills about 
fourteen inches apart. After the plants have 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 
reached the proper size, thin to six or eight inches 
apart in the drill. By the last of June, in ordinary 
seasons, they will have reached the size of an ordin- 
ary ''Boston cracker" and are then ready for 
bunching. 

They are tied five in a bunch and marketed in 
the same manner as early beets. The Early 
Milan Purple Top and the Early Purple Top 
Munich, which closely resemble each other in 
most particulars, are principal sorts raised for 
early bunching, and are certainly as good as any. 
The proceeds per acre of a good piece of turnips 
is about the same as of beets, and the cost of raising 
is about the same, but on the whole they are not 
as sure a crop as beets, as they are quite liable 
to become rough, scabby, and wormy, and conse- 
quently worthless. 

For fall use, the seed may be sown any time 
from July 1st to August 20th, and they are often 
sown with grass seed, using about half a pound 
per acre broadcast with the grass. Grown in 
this way, their leaves serve as a protection and a 
help to the grass plants as soon as they commence 
to start. 

The fall crop is 'marketed by the bushel, either 
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SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

ill the fall or during the winter as wanted, and 
may be stored either in cellars or pits. For this 
crop, the Purple Top White Globe, the White Egg 
and the Red Top Strap-Leaved are quite desirable 
varieties. 

The Ruta Bagas are almost wholly grown as 
a farm crop, as they are not sufficiently profitable 
for the market garden. These may be sown 
any time during July, and are often used to follow 
after a crop of cabbage or peas. Sow in drills 
eighteen inches apart, and thin to one foot apart in 
the row. 

There are no better ruta bagas than the best 
strains of White Sweet German, which are almost 
universally used both for marketing and home 
use. The White French, or Rock, is a long, oval 
turnip, very mild and sweet; the flesh is solid and 
white, like the German. 

The London Extra Yellow Swede and the 
Shamrock Yellow Swede and Carter's Imperial 
are the leading yellow-fleshed sorts, and are quite 
similar to each other in appearance. 

Watermelons {Cucurhita citrullus) are but little 
grown except as a farm crop, and where land is 
cheap. They can be readily handled and bear 

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VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

shipping well. What is known as '*warm land" 
is to be preferred for this crop. The soil should 
be of a sandy or gravelly nature, and it is not 
important that it should be very rich. Plant 
as soon as the weather becomes settled; ordinarily 
about the middle of May. Cover about half an 
inch deep and press the soil down firmly so as to 
hold the moisture. Two shovelfuls of manure 
should be put in each hill, or one in the hill with 
a light dressing on top. The intervals should be 
eight feet each way. Five seeds are put in each 
hill, and the plants, after being well started, 
should be thinned out so as to reduce the number 
to three. They require the same cultivation as 
squash or any other field crop. Phinney's Early 
is the best early sort. 

Black Spanish is an old reliable variety, very 
hardy and productive, and excellent for cultivation. 
The popular Mountain Sweet is a very large oval 
variety, with a striped skin and thin rind. Kolb's 
Gem, or American Champion, a variety of estab- 
lished merit, is also highly esteemed as a market 
variety; it carries w^ell, and is of extra fine quality. 
The Iron-clad is a favourite market variety in 
many localities. It grows very large and is a 

[215] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

good keeper. The variety called Scaly Bark is 
distinguished by its rough skin. The rind is 
unusually thin, but very tough, and it bears 
transportation to a great distance without injury. 
The well-known Citron melon is raised entirely 
for preserving, and is wholly valueless otherwise. 

Yam, Chinese {Dioscorea Batatas). Although 
this vegetable has been grown in this country 
for several years, it has hardly obtained the popu- 
larity which it merits. It is really one of the most 
valuable esculents in cultivation. The vine will 
grow to a length of from ten to twenty feet, accord- 
ing to soil and location. The leaves are very dark 
in colour, and heart-shaped; the flowers are small, 
white and grow in clusters. The root is of pale 
russet colour, oblong, regularly rounded, club- 
shaped, largest at the lower end. 

The roots, cut in pieces an inch long, or bulblets, 
should be planted eight inches apart. A deep, 
light soil, moist and well-enriched, is best adapted 
to the plant. A well-grown root, two years from 
the bulblet, should measure two feet in length. 
They may be cooked either by steaming or roasting, 
and the flesh will be found very white and of most 
agreeable flavour. 

[216] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

It would be impossible to find a plant of easier 
culture, as the roots are perfectly hardy, and can 
be kept growing year after year in the same location 
if desired. There is no insect that troubles either 
the vine or tuber, and no vine can exceed it in 
vigour of growth. They increase naturally from 
the small tubers, or bulblets, which form along 
the vine just above the leaf joints. These should 
be gathered in the fall, and protected against 
freezing during the winter. They may be planted 
any time during the spring, after danger of severe 
freezing is past. The flowers have a peculiar cin- 
namon-like fragrance; hence the name "Cinnamon 
Vine," under which some dealers have sent it out. 

When grown in the garden, and merely for the 
tubers, the vines may be allowed to run on the 
ground; but if bulblets are desired, these will be 
produced in greater abundance when poles or other 
supports are employed to keep the vines up from 
the soil. 

I here bring to a close this discussion of special 
crops, and their appropriate special culture. In 
regard to the rules here given, and to the general 
rules for cultivation which occupy the earlier pages 

[217] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

as well — I take occasion to remark that a wide 
field yet remains open for experiment and enter- 
prise. Every grower should be an experimenter 
(of course we mean on a prudent and moderate 
scale), and should habitually report his processes 
and results for comparison with those obtained 
by others. He should take pains to observe ac- 
curately, and report faithfully and in full detail all 
such matters. The various agricultural experiment 
stations established in different states gladly re- 
ceive reports so prepared. 

The director and his assistants proceed to study 
and compare the matters so reported. With their 
peculiar facilities and opportunities they digest and 
condense the combined experiences of many intelli- 
gent observers. Including with these the results of 
their own more scientific inquiries, they are enabled 
to put forth publications in continuous series, very 
valuable to the farmer or gardener, and thereby 
promotive of the general prosperity of the country. 

There are many new and inviting openings 
for the further study of plants and plant culture; 
as, for instance, in electro-culture, now just barely 
beginning to be practically undertaken; in vege- 
table and insect physiology, in which much has 
[218] 



VEGETABLES RAISED FOR MARKET 

been learned, and much yet remains to be explored; 
and in the very many obscure conditions aflFecting 
health and growth, quality and quantity of product, 
and the like. 

As instances of appliances already in universal 
use amongst market gardeners, yet susceptible 
of indefinite further modifications and improve- 
ment, may be mentioned forcing-houses and 
hot-beds. Both of these, in their many and very 
various details of construction and operation, 
obviously need to be studied as separate (and 
far from simple) subjects of further inquiry and 
comparison. On the choice between greenhouse 
and hot-bed growing, in any case, or between 
the many different practicable ways of putting 
up and operating either, may depend many results 
involving the true or false economy of the plan; 
and thus the pecuniary success or failure of the 
grower. 

Thus far in the present work I have had in 
mind, and mainly confined myself to describing, 
the growing of crops and use of means and pro- 
cesses which I could recommend as successful 
from a suflSciently extended experience of my own. 
In the pages that are to follow, I propose to include, 

[219 ] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

with description of tools and other requisites, 
some of the various means and appliances that are 
growing in favour though not yet fully established 
or that are likely to prove adapted to cases and 
under circumstances slightly different: in either 
case worthy of notice as alternatives. These, 
or some of these, may often prove useful as sub- 
stitutes for those more familiarly known and used 
by myself; to which I have given preference 
for obvious reasons, in the pages preceding. 



[220] 



CHAPTER VII 

IMPLEMENTS, ORDINARY AND SPECIAL — FURTHER 
METHODS AND APPLIANCES INSECTS AND PRE- 
VENTIVES — FUMIGATION, HOW CONDUCTED — 
FUNGI, AND PLANT DISEASES — PREVENTIVES — 
CONCLUSION 

C^ONTiNUED improvement still appears from year 
to year in agricultural implements ; and some of the 
tools now used in the market garden and on the 
farm are of quite recent invention ; or have become, 
through various modifications, entirely different 
in operation and effect from those in use only three 
or four years ago ; although some of the more com- 
mon ones, such as are required and in use by every 
farmer and gardener (hoes, rakes, forks, spades, 
etc.), have but little changed. The leading Ameri- 
can manufacturers of small tools have so nearly 
perfected the style and quality of these, as to leave 
practically nothing more to be desired. No other 
nation can compete with us in the production of 
handsome, handy and durable articles of this class. 

[ 221 ] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

There is a considerable opportunity for choice, 
even amongst small tools of almost the same pat- 
tern and make. No good shoveller is quite satis- 
fied unless he can have his own shovel to work with 
— it fits his hand better than any other. Hoes and 
forks have their peculiar merits and demerits, such 
as can hardly be accounted for upon a cursory 
examination, but in long-continued use become 
apparent. All these, however, involve but little 
outlay, and their possible peculiarities are, there- 
fore, of less importance to be discussed; but, of 
course, the clumsy ones should be avoided, or dis- 
carded as soon as convenient; and better ones 
should be watched for, and secured as soon as 
obtainable. Good tools make cultivation easier, 
and crops better in amount and quality. There 
should be a tool-house, which should also have 
an outfit for making small repairs. Tools after 
use should be immediately returned to place. 
They should always be cleaned off after being left; 
iron and steel parts should be wiped and oiled, 
or treated with some more thorough dressing, 
according to their liability to rust, and the length 
of time they are likely to remain unused. 

Tools operated by horse power form a large and 
[222] 



IMPLEMENTS 

interesting class of implements, in most of which 
the steady progress of improvement is very con- 
spicuous. Limits of space will confine us to con- 
densed description — often to a mere brief men- 
tion — in treating of these. More detailed descrip- 
tion is usually to be had on application to the manu- 
facturers or their selling agents, in the form of 
elaborate pamphlets, freely illustrated; which (if 
read with discreet allowance for the bias of their 
authors) may be consulted with profit for addi- 
tional information. 

The Kemp Manure Spreader holds the field 
alone in its class. As already shown (except under 
unusual circumstances, or perhaps in the culti- 
vation of a very few crops, of which asparagus, 
melons and tomatoes are the chief examples) — 
the application of manure by a Spreader is seldom 
practised by the market gardener because the 
capacity of these machines is limited to about six 
or seven cords per acre; but where that amount 
will suflfice, and the spreader is put into service, 
it gives a very satisfactory result. 

We will presume that the use of the Plough 
in turning under broadcast dressings of manure has 
been suflBciently dwelt upon previously and in the 

[223 ] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

cultural directions for special crops. After the 
manure has been supplied and turned under, the 
next main requisite in preparing for a crop is to 
pulverize the soil; and since the plough is very 
efficient in this and other services, in fact quite 
indispensable, it is manifestly one of the most 
important of agricultural implements. 

Amongst the many varying styles, and dijBFerent 
manufacturers, competing for preference, it is a 
natural question to ask which is the best. There 
is no complete answer that can be given to this 
inquiry. Nearly all of the leading styles are of 
practical use, and each has its own peculiar and 
individual merits. In certain soils and for certain 
purposes, one kind of plough will often be found 
to do the work and answer the purpose in view 
better than another, while, under different con- 
ditions, the latter might be decidedly the more 
serviceable of the two. 

All the different makes now in favour are good, 
and some are known to be specially adapted to 
certain kinds of work. For example, a mould 
board that lifts and turns the slice very gradually 
will operate easily, and turn the bottom side upper- 
most with the least possible disturbance of the 

[224] 



IMPLEMENTS 
earth; a shorter mould board with a quicker twist 
will stir and pulverize the soil. No one need have 
any difficulty in finding one which will serve his 
purpose when he knows what he wants. 

Sulky-ploughs, and sulkies attached to ordinary 
ploughs, are well adapted for use on level land, 
when a large amount of work is to be done. 

The two-horse land-side plough is the one most 
used. Even in this class, different makers have 
different styles, and each claims for his own that 
it is the best; but every cultivator should judge 
for himself which is the best adapted to his needs, 
and endeavour to confirm his judgment by actual 
trial before purchasing. Much use also is made 
of the swivel -plough. The large-sized or two-horse 
pattern is chiefly designed for breaking up sod 
land. It would rarely be needed for this use by 
market gardeners, but is occasionally required for 
various other services. A small, or one-horse 
swivel-plough, will often be found very convenient, 
especially when ploughing close to fences. Wher- 
ever the land needs to be thrown all one way the 
swivel pattern comes into requisition. 

The different patterns of ploughs which should be 
provided include one very large and one of medium 

[225] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
size (both land-side), and also a subsoiler. Each 
of these is to be worked with two horses. As 
already said, where much ploughing is to be done, 
a sulky is very useful. Provide also one (side-hill 
or) swivel plough for one horse, two single (or one- 
horse) land-side ploughs, and a very small one with 
double mould board, suitable for going between 
narrow rows — one which will throw up the earth 
but very little. 

Next, perhaps, in importance to the plough 
comes the Harrow. Of harrows there are almost 
as many styles as of ploughs. The cheapness and 
solid construction of the primitive A-harrow with 
spike teeth, and of some others of that class (or 
approaching it) are about all they have to recom- 
mend them. Neither spike teeth, spring teeth, 
coulters pushed or trailed, nor any similar devices 
whatever will fully meet all requirements as pul- 
verizers. 

Disk or wheel harrows are now commonly 
employed. One of the earliest of these, the La 
Dow, was for a time very extensively used, and 
generally admitted to be the best pulverizer on the 
market. 

Other implements operating much like the La 
[226] 



IMPLEMENTS 

Dow, and using similar circular disks, are the 
Corbin, Climax, Warrior and Reynolds. All have 
sulky seats and sometimes carry scrapers. 

In Clark's Cutaway harrow each disk is in one 
piece at the hub or centre; but it is shaped at the 
circumference into six small blades, being cut away 
with deep triangular notches, to obvious advantage. 

The Morgan Spading is the latest and, I 
think, best of the wheel harrows, for reasons fol- 
lowing: Solid disks in one revolution bear, sub- 
stantially, a constant scraping contact to the earth 
of about four feet. Cutaway disks present a very 
similar contact, of about two feet in a revolution. 
Both styles are usually weighted down to perform 
their work. The Morgan blade or spade is 
narrow, rounded and sharp, the end having but 
about two inches cutting surface, or one foot in one 
revolution of each set. 

The Meeker Smoothing Harrow is employed 
either for levelling the surface of land, that it may 
be ploughed evenly, or, after ploughing, to prepare 
for the seed-drill. 

Every practical cultivator knows the style and 
construction of a good Roller. The nature of 
the service it performs has already been treated 

[ 227 ] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

of in preceding pages. A larger use than is ordi- 
narily made of this very important implement is to 
be recommended. 

Next in order of usefulness comes the Culti- 
vator. After the land has been plowed, subsoiled, 
harrowed, rolled and planted, this serviceable 
implement is called into requisition. It executes 
with thoroughness, dispatch and economy, a large 
amount of work that used to be laboriously per- 
formed with hand-hoes. Many varieties are 
offered to choose from, and the choice I recom- 
mend may not accord with every one's individual 
opinion, but I consider the Planet, Jr., on the 
whole the best I have ever seen; principally be- 
cause it can be put into so many different shapes by 
varying the combination of its parts, and thus 
so many different kinds of work can be done with 
it. The illustrated catalogue of the makers very 
fully describes its construction, with all its most 
recent improvements and additional features; and 
explains the many transformations of which it 
is capable by interchange and substitution 
among its different parts, each having special 
adaptations, and showing great fertility of 
mechanical contrivance. 

[ 22S ] 



IMPLEMENTS 

111 its general operation, it is wonderfully 
efficient and economical; it stirs and pulverizes 
the ground, destroying weeds, giving aeration, 
and promoting moisture about the roots of growing 
plants; it will throw the earth to or from the rows 
as may be desired ; it does pretty much all that can 
be done with a hand-hoe in cultivating the crop. 
Many who are using this implement to-day do not 
hoe their crops at all by hand work. It requires 
discretion and skill to obtain such effective results 
from its use, but there is no question that, in the 
hands of one who thoroughly understands its 
capabilities, it can be made to do, at a greatly 
reduced cost, a large amount of hoeing formerly 
done with the hand-hoes. 

Besides being economical on the score of expense, 
it is also highly advantageous in enabling the far 
more rapid execution of the work. Crops often 
suffer for want of a timely stirring of the soil, 
especially in times of drought; weeds must be 
cut down as soon as they show themselves; even 
when neither weeds nor drought threaten the crops 
it is beneficial to the soil, and thus to the growing 
plants, that it should be turned or stirred as fre- 
quently as may be to give it life. Labour with 

[229] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
an ordinary hand-hoe is manifestly unequal to 
carrying out the work of this description; it costs 
too much, and goes over too little ground in a day. 
The implement under the name of Planet, Jr., 
Horse-Hoe and Cultivator Combined, meets the 
exigencies we have described in a thoroughly satis- 
factory manner wherever the width of planting 
permits the use of a horse. No farmer or market 
gardener can afford to dispense with this or some 
equivalent form of cultivator. It combines in a 
single machine, the horse-hoe, cultivator, furrower 
and coverer. The side-hoes or plates are reversible, 
thus giving double wear; and the levers control 
adjustments that allow more or less hilling, and 
also regulate the depth, in conformity, with the 
object or purpose for which it is to be used. This 
adjustability is a most important feature in suit- 
ing its use to various soils or crops, or to various 
stages of growth. That position of the standards 
or hoes which is shown in the illustration, is the 
one which casts the earth toward the rows; but 
whenever the opposite result is aimed at, it can be 
arranged for merely by changing their positions, 
putting each on the opposite side, the work of a 
few moments only. Although the present age is 

[230] 



IMPLEMENTS 

an age of improvements, and predictions are always 
rash, I have thought and still consider it next to 
impossible that this implement will be superseded 
or very much improved upon. 

The Hand-Hoe most used by market gardeners 
is one rather wide and thin, say ten inches by four 
inches for the blade; and on light, sandy land, such 
as they generally have in cultivation, one of this 
description will be found very much to be pre- 
ferred. 

The Shovels used are of two kinds, one with 
short handle and square blade, the other with 
a long handle and round point. The former is 
always employed for putting the heating material 
into hot-beds, the square part being convenient 
for making the bottom of the bed smooth and even. 
The long one serves best for banking celery and 
ordinary work around the fences and buildings. 
The spade is a tool that is little used except to dig 
horseradish and roots, and occasionally for dig- 
ging celery when it is large and cannot be thrown 
over with the plow. 

The six-tined Forks are the ones most used for 
pitching manure, digging in hot-beds, and all 
the work done with a fork; but the spading-fork is 

[231] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

also a very useful tool; expressly adapted to loos- 
ening and throwing over garden soil. It is made 
with only four tines; these are either flat or angular 
in shape, with but little to choose between the two 
styles. 

The Slide Hoe is used mostly between the rows 
of beets, lettuce, spinach, onions, dandelions, 
parsley, celery and all the crops sown by machine. 
This tool is made in different widths so as to fit 
the varying intervals between the rows for which 
it is intended. The smallest are four inches wide, 
and they are made to range upward to nine inches. 
They are used by sliding them in a direction 
parallel with and along the row, and the knives 
enter the soil to a depth of about one inch, making 
the land loose and light on the top, and destroy- 
ing the weeds. 

The Little Gem Wheel Hoe is a hand imple- 
ment combining some of the characteristics of the 
horse-hoe, or cultivator, and the slide hoe; thus 
producing a very serviceable tool. It is well- 
proportioned, as regards size, to the work to be 
done; built light and strong; all iron and steel, 
except handles; well made, and handsomely fin- 
ished and adjustable in every way. It is made 

[232] 



IMPLEMENTS 

with single wheel, for use between the rows; 
and also with double wheel, for use astride 
the rows. 

Wheel-hoes for similar service are likewise made 
and sold by the Planet, Jr., manufacturers, who 
continue to maintain their well-known high stan- 
dard of excellence in all goods of this class. More- 
over, the wheel-hoes of their design possess 
unrivalled advantages of adaptation to different 
kinds of work, by reason of their many possible 
transformations. These are very ingenious. 

The Seed-Sower or Drill is one of the most 
useful and labour-saving implements in the entire 
outfit of the market garden. It is used to sow 
nearly all kinds of seed. Even peas and beans 
are ordinarily sown by this machine. The quan- 
tity of seed sown is regulated by small tins, with 
holes affording passage for the seeds to the exact 
amount required, and the distance between rows 
is regulated or marked by a chain which is made 
to drag from an adjustable arm. While one row 
is being sown, the next one is marked by the chain. 
The adjustable arm is a stick pierced with little 
holes, and placed across the handles of the machine. 
The depth of the sowing is regulated by raising or 

[233] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

lowering the tooth which ploughs a little furrow 
for the seed to drop in. The seed may be sown 
from one-fourth of an inch to three inches deep, 
and is covered by two little blocks, so arranged as to 
draw the dirt over upon the seed. This is followed 
by a roller, which is regulated by a spring so as to 
roll heavily or lightly as may be desirable. 

The Arlington seed drill is altogether the best 
pattern of seeder ever seen by me. It is very 
generally used by market gardeners in the 
vicinity of Boston, and every one who has it in 
use approves it highly. It has a large wheel, 
some twenty-eight inches in diameter, with a 
broad rim, two and one-half inches, which pre- 
vents its sinking into the mellow earth, and runs 
so easily that it can be used all day without 
fatigue to the operator. It sows fine seeds with 
perfect regularity, as well as the larger seeds. 

The Little Gem drill is small but efficient. 
It was devised in response to a general desire 
among small gardeners for an inexpensive drill 
which will do perfect work; and it satisfies this 
demand completely. 

Still other seed-sowers are, the Matthews's, the 
Monitor, the Planet, Jr., and the Iron Age. 

[234] 



IMPLEMENTS 

For the planting of corn, beans and other seeds 
of the larger class, and for use on rough or stony 
land, the need is met by such machines as the 
Billings's, Albany, or Eclipse. All these are to be 
run with a horse; and are supplied with fertilizing 
attachments for depositing, properly distributed, 
any requisite amount of dry fertilizing powder at 
the same time as the seed. 

Each year competition in market gardening and 
root-growing makes garden seed-drills more neces- 
sary. With their assistance, seed-sowing can be 
done with so much greater regularity, rapidity, and 
ease, and with such large saving of seed as well, 
that the planting of a very small acreage is suffi- 
cient to warrant the purchase of a tool which is 
now made so reliable, simple, and inexpensive. 

The Planet, Jr., combined drill, wheel hoe, 
cultivator, rake and plough was in its primary form 
a seed-sower; and has been made adaptable to 
many of the various subsequent operations requisite 
in vegetable culture by various ingenious cultiva- 
ting attachments. The change from a seed-drill 
to a wheel hoe can be made in a few moments by 
taking out two bolts, and putting on the hoes. 

These can be safely set to cut within an inch of 
[235] 



i SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
the rows at the first hoemg of small plants from 
seed. It is then that careful and close work 
counts. 

This method is, of course, applicable equally to 
all kinds of crops when small. It is not necessary 
to watch the course of the blades, but only to keep 
the row exactly spread between the wheels. If 
desired, in place of the hoe blades, a pair of culti- 
vator-teeth may be used for mellowing the soil 
effectually, while causing less lateral disturbance 
of the surface. 

Subsequently, when the plants are of larger size, 
the cultivation is performed by propelling the hoe 
between the rows (instead of astride). A single 
cultivator-tooth being attached centrally, in 
addition to the two hoe-blades the entire space 
between the rows is covered and worked into 
mellow condition by one passage of the tool — 
every weed being destroyed. The width may 
be adjusted to suit all rows not wider apart than 
sixteen inches. 

By another obvious modification, replacing 
the two hoe-blades, used in the last described com- 
bination, by cultivator-teeth, we obtain a three- 
tooth cultivator, for stirring and mellowing between 

[ 236 ] 



IMPLEMENTS 

the rows without causing any (general) lateral 
movements of the soil. 

The hoe-blades may be attached so as to throw 
either toward or from the rows. By other and 
similar changes, it may be readily turned into a 
ten-toothed rake, useful for light cultivation, or, 
again, it becomes a handy little plough, for light 
furrowing and covering. Other details may be 
gathered from the illustrated pamphlet, issued 
by the manufacturers. 

I consider the Planet, Jr., Double Wheel Hoe 
to be the most desirable tool. It is built with sole 
adaptation to the cultivation of the rows. A 
separate implement is put to service for sowing 
and covering. 

Rawson's Field Marker is a very useful tool. 
It will work either ten, twelve, twenty or twenty- 
four inch intervals by simply changing the pins 
in the wheel (which are put in with a nut) and will 
mark as fast as a man can walk. It is found 
especially useful in setting out cabbage, cauli- 
flower, celery, lettuce, etc. After once using this im- 
plement, no farmer will be willing to be without one. 

There are two markers used in marking the beds 
for lettuce to be grown under glass. One marks five 

[237] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

rows — one under each row, or light, of glass, when 
there are five lights wide in each sash, of six inches 
each. The other is then used to mark ten places 
for plants in each row, thus making fifty plants 
under each sash. The bed is prepared with the 
sash off, and when the sash is to be put in place 
over the bed each space is marked, by the two 
men putting on the glr.ss; the one on the lower, or 
front side, using the one with the handle, and the 
man on the back side using the other marker. 

A Rake-Handled Marker with ten teeth is also 
made for sowing radishes or cabbage or lettuce. 
Mark the rows by drawing the teeth from the 
back of the bed toward the front, bearing down 
so as to make the furrows deep, if required; and 
always making the first tooth of the marker follow 
for a guide the row just made by the last tooth, 
thus making nine rows under each sash four inches 
apart. 

The Cabbage Carrier is very useful. It is light 
and durable, and can easily be carried between the 
rows of cabbages. It is made of such size as to 
hold all that two men will want to carry. 

Greenhouse Heating. We have supplied 
on a preceding page figures for making ready 

[238] 



IMPLEMENTS 

estimates of the piping needed. These figures 
are based upon our own experience in structures 
of ordinary proportions. For instance, the gen- 
eral cross-section of one of the author's green- 
houses in Arlington has dimensions frequent in 
ordinary practice: Height at the back, 10 feet; 
height at front, 4 feet; under the ridge, that is, at 
the highest point of the interior, 15 feet; span, 
33 feet. The length of this structure is nearly 
400 feet. 

These figures, of course, indicate a definite 
interior cubic content; and from the heating by 
pipes actually done there I have derived rules 
which admit of ready application, for all build- 
ings substantially similar; even though somewhat 
differing in height of front or rear wall, pitch of 
roof, etc., and of any less or greater length, likely 
to be erected for the purposes of the vegetable- 
grower. 

A more elaborate calculation may generally be 
had (free of charge to the person contemplating the 
outlay), together with estimates for doing the work, 
from any of the numerous establishments that 
stand ready to contract for and supply modern 
heating equipment in its various forms. In such 

[ 239 ] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

calculations it has been common to reckon from 
the glass surface actually present in the given case. 
A method still more precise consists in reckoning 
from the whole exposed surface of the structure; 
glass, sides and ends; rating the two latter as of 
one-third the radiating effect resulting from a 
similar surface of glass. 

Electro-Culture. In my Arlington green- 
house above mentioned is afforded an example of 
successful and profitable use of the electric light 
in stimulating plant growths. Four 10-ampere, 
45 volt, Brush arc lamps of 2,000 nominal candle- 
power are employed, when the beds are occupied 
w^ith lettuce, with the effect of causing the growth 
of this crop to be maintained continuously instead 
of being intermitted at night; this saves time, if 
not quite proportionately, at least in a material 
degree; accelerating the maturity of the crop, and 
enabling the cucumber plants, which are to follow, 
to begin their growth so much the earlier. 

I have not yet extended my use of the electric 
light to the culture of other crops than lettuce; 
and believe there is ground for thinking that some 
at least will be injured, rather than benefited by 
that treatment. Except in the case of lettuce, 

[240] 



IMPLEMENTS 

other experimenters have found such results as 
leave it still a problem whether it can be used to 
advantage. Some experiments made at Ithaca, 
N. Y., indicate that it is better to intermit the use 
of the electric lamps during some portion of each 
night, and always on moonlight nights. The 
employment of the ordinary white opal globes 
— to temper or modify the bare unshaded light 
(when run continuously) — also appeared, in those 
experiments, to be beneficial, but I have not used 
them. 

For the forcing of asparagus and other peren- 
nials, permanent outside beds are sometimes used. 
These beds are so constructed as to afford a sub- 
stitute for the more convenient but highly expen- 
sive equipment of hot-houses having water or steam 
pipes for supply and regulation of heat. As they 
involve a much smaller initial outlay, they may be 
considered as affording, under certain circum- 
stances, a more desirable method. 

Where such a bed is proposed, the plan gener- 
ally followed is to surround the bed by a trench 
bricked up on the outside and filled with stable 
manure. As often as may be required by the tem- 
perature, the manure is renewed. The bed may 

p41] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

be lour or five feet wide, and as long as desired; 
of course, covered with glass. If made six feet 
wide, the ordinary 3x6 glass can be used, which 
is more convenient; and, in such case, it is desir- 
able to have box flues leading across through the 
centre of the bed from one trench to the other in 
order to promote distribution of the heat. Some- 
times there is only one trench, running length- 
wise through the centre of the bed, thus dividing 
it into two narrow ones. 

The growth made in forcing-houses enclosing 
temporary beds is thought, however, to be rather 
more profitable in the final result. It is usual to 
make the temporary bed three feet wide; and for 
asparagus the rows are put one foot apart, with the 
plants eighteen inches apart in the row. Such 
close planting will need heavy manuring and 
close attention. 

If a cheap house for forcing asparagus, etc., in 
early spring is as much as is aimed at, the following 
plan, recommended in "The American Garden," 
is as good as any. It may be made either as a 
double or single span; if double span, 8 or 10 feet 
wide. Build a wall from the frost line to a foot 
above ground. Frame and cover with glass. If 

[242] 



IMPLEMENTS 

the drainage is not good, it must be made so. 
Dig a trench two feet wide through the centre for 
a walk. Make an excavation several feet square 
at one end, to serve for the furnace or stove, and 
also for the entrance. To heat the beds, carry the 
smoke around the outside of the bed in flues which 
are almost entirely below the surface of the ground, 
the smoke finally passing out of the chimney. 
Near (and for some distance from) the furnace, 
build the flue of brick to prevent fire, but the rest 
construct of boards. In summer, the sash can be 
removed, and in winter it would be better to apply 
a mulch and cover the frame with boards rather 
than the sash, as it would be more apt to give an 
equal temperature. 

Arrange the beds on each side of the walk, and 
plant as has been above described for temporary 
beds in forcing-houses. It will be remembered 
that where so little earth is allowed to each plant 
it is necessary to manure often and heavily. 

Pumping Outfit. — There has already been 
given a general outline of apparatus for water 
supply and distribution; and here I repeat the 
remark that, there being a wide field for choice in 
selecting and arranging the various requisite 

[243] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

features, and the outlay usually being large, pru- 
dence demands a careful study in advance of all 
attendant conditions and circumstances. Then, 
after one has made for himself the best scheme he 
can individually devise, and before embarking his 
means in the execution of it, it will pay to call 
in the services of an expert, skilful enough to com- 
prehend the particular case, and to utilize in it the 
experience of a large professional practice. It will 
not do, however, to leave all to him ; the proprietor 
must make it his own business, none the less, to 
understand the whys and wherefores, and to take 
no step of which he cannot feel he clearly under- 
stands the method and the reason. 

Amongst the first questions to be weighed and 
decided is that concerning steam boilers and wind- 
mills which (or whether both or whether either) 
— shall be utilized for power. The pump must 
be one adapted to the power employed. In case 
wind and steam are both put to service, two sepa- 
rate and distinct pumps will usually be required. 
With steam, the direct-action horizontal pumps 
(of which the Deane pattern is a good example) 
are well adapted for the work. Various makers of 
steam pumps offer various other patterns which 

[244] 



IMPLEMENTS 

are good and efficient, or may be presumed to be 
so, from the fact that they divide the market de- 
mand, with no distinct essential superiority evident 
in either. 

Minor circumstances commonly determine one's 
choice. If any one pattern were positively and 
essentially superior, it would not take long for the 
others to drop out of sight — so thoroughly have 
the respective merits and demerits of all such ap- 
paratus been established by long-continued tests, in 
widely extended service. Simplicity of action is 
important, but this condition does not (at least in 
all cases) exclude belted or geared connections. 
The best-arranged windmill pumps are "geared 
back" — though probably the majority of those 
at present in use work the pump-rod by direct 
attachment to the crank-pin. 

Our own experience, already given, as regards 
the power to be employed has extended only to 
wind and steam. But there is yet another means 
for filling and irrigating tanks or mains. It con- 
sists in employing the power of one or more horses, 
working in a horse-power machine, suitably con- 
structed and solidly geared in combination with 
a powerful suction and force pump; drafting the 

[245] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 
water from the well or supply main and raising it 
to the storage tank. 

This constitutes a complete and self-contained 
pumping outfit. It has the same advantage over 
windmill pumping that steam power possesses, 
in being always reliably at hand. It requires no 
skilled labour for its operation; a feature which 
commends it as especially suitable for small culti- 
vators. 

As above said, we may be reasonably confident 
that a pump of any leading style, purchased from 
a reputable dealer (including, too, its steam cylin- 
ders and fittings, if a steam pump), will be found 
pretty nearly what it is represented. But in choice 
of boilers, and windmills likewise, neither general 
experience nor opinions gathered from dealers will 
be found, perhaps, quite so safely reliable. 

Of one point, already dwelt upon, the vege- 
table-grower may be wholly confident; that, in 
some way or other, as an indispensable necessity, 
he must procure water. In making his choice of 
means for doing it, he will do well to weigh care- 
fully what we have here suggested, as regards 
alternatives; but on the main matter, there is no 
alternative — the water must be had, as an indis- 

[^46] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

peiisable provision, to save his entire scheme of 
cultivation from absolute failure; to make it even 
possible to raise crops that will pay. 

INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

So extensive and serious is the destructive work 
of injurious insects that — except on such land as 
is kept under continual tilth and subjected to 
constant and thorough cultivation, with judicious 
rotation of crops — it often seems as if the bugs 
must get the upper hand of the grower, do what 
he may. Bugs of one kind or another are found 
eating everything that grows in the shape of use- 
ful vegetables; but they never attack a weed. 

Unlike the mildews and other fungous parasites, 
insects are nowise discouraged and driven off by 
healthly and vigorous growth of the plants — 
this is just what they like to find. Sometimes 
they will sweep off every plant in an early stage of 
growth; or they may delay their coming till just 
before harvest and then consume the entire 
crop. 

The Wavy-striped Flea-beetle (Haltica striolata) 
is very destructive to young cabbages and turnips. 

[247] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

As soon as the young cabbages appear above the 
ground it attacks them by eating oflF the seed 
leaves; later, when the second leaves appear, the 
danger lies in another quarter, and it will often 
be noticed that the plant wilts and changes colour. 
The grub has eaten away the roots. 

Professor Hulst recommends, for suppression 
of this insect, the kerosene emulsion, one part of 
the oil to twelve or fifteen parts water. In plant- 
ing out cabbages the roots should be dipped in 
the emulsion; and thereafter, at intervals of about 
two weeks, enough of this compound should be 
poured around the base of the stalks to saturate 
the earth to the depth of at least an inch, whether 
the maggots appear to be present or not. 

The same insects that attack young cabbage 
plants, and turnips, also infest the radish. In 
some localities it is almost impossible to grow 
radishes of a size fit for the table before they are 
practically destroyed by a small maggot. This 
maggot appears to be the larva of a fly, closely 
related to those so destructive to the onion. If 
radishes, cabbages, cauliflowers and onions are 
growing in adjacent rows it has been found that 
the fly will attack all the rows successively, taking 

[248] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

the radishes as first choice and proceeding to the 
rest, usually in the order named. 

The onion fly lays her eggs on the leaves of the 
young and small onion plants, near the ground 
They soon hatch, and the maggots at once attack 
the bulb. In about two weeks after this a second 
brood of flies appears, to be followed by more 
maggots. The remedy at this stage consists in 
removing every infested bulb. These may be 
known by the leaves turning yellow. They can- 
not be pulled up by the tops without risk of letting 
the maggot escape from the decayed bulb. They 
must be lifted by a trowel, or an old knife, so as to 
be sure to bring up the maggot. The bulbs so 
removed, and the maggots, must be burned. 
Strong caustic lime-water, and concentrated solu- 
tions of kainite or muriate of potash are said to be 
safe and sure remedies when applied in time. A 
pint or half-pint of the liquid is to be poured upon 
every plant, making sure of reaching the infected 
root. This will kill the eggs in the ground as well 
as the maggot in the root — by simple contact. 
Plants once seriously affected can hardly ever be 
saved. 

The squash and pumpkin, the cucumber and the 
[249] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

melon all belong to the Cucurbitaceae, or gourd 
family. Hence, naturally, the same insects infest 
all these related plants. The squash bug is one 
of the worst and most disagreeable. When han- 
dled or disturbed, it gives off a very repulsive odor. 
The insects are quiet during the day, but at night 
lay their eggs in little patches, of a brownish yellow 
colour, and glued to the leaves. They are quite 
easily kept under control by hand-picking. The 
same means is practised with the tomato-worm 
and the potato-bug. In the case of the latter, 
however, the free application of Paris green to the 
vines is less laborious and equally effective. 

Wire-worms are frequently found infesting the 
soil prepared for the greenhouse; but can be sup- 
pressed by the addition of three or four pounds of 
unslacked lime to the bushel of soil. Similar 
treatment may be presumed to be beneficial when 
they appear in out-door culture. 

The white grub is a serious source of trouble 
to cultivators, and no application has yet been 
found by our gardeners to afford a satisfactory 
means of destroying it. It seems that if left lying 
in the ground, in winter quarters, the grub may be 
frozen to a solid lump, but when thawed out in the 

[250] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

spring will be full of life and vigour. Late fall 
ploughing, as already recommended on a preceding 
page, serves to bring it to the surface, exposing it 
more effectually to the cold and to its natural 
enemies, thus to some considerable extent reducing 
its numbers. But the most hopeful treatment yet 
proposed is that recently put forward by French 
entomologists, who claim to have discovered a 
plant-parasite by aid of which lands thoroughly 
infested with the white grub have been very largely 
relieved after a two-months' trial, so as to afford 
a reasonable prospect for the complete extirpation 
of the pest. This remedy, of introducing a para- 
site harmless in itself but destructive of the noxious 
insect, is similar to that which has been so success- 
fully applied in the case of the scale-insects in the 
vineyards of California. 

Insecticides in liquid solution may be applied by 
use of suitable force pumps, or garden engines 
(according to the scale on which the operation is to 
be carried out), equipped with spraying nozzles. 

But there are drawbacks and difficulties in the 
use of liquid solutions; one is that the poison does 
not actually dissolve in the water, which has to be 
constantly agitated to maintain a mixture. An- 

[251] 



SUCCESS IN IVIARKET GARDENING 

other is the great weight of the quantity required 
to be used. Dry mixtures are therefore employed, 
being dusted over the plants. They should be 
put on preferably when the foliage is still damp 
after a rain or dew; and may be applied by use of 
a very fine sifter. Metal canisters, having finely 
perforated bottoms, are made and sold for this 
purpose, to be used in the same manner as an 
ordinary pepper caster. These will answer in a 
small way only. 

A capital implement for applying dry mixtures to 
field crops is the Farmer's Favourite Duster. 
In operating this device, the left hand is held fii'm, 
while the right hand rotates the reservoir of poison 
and diffuses it effectively. 

Any device such as described will, however, be 
limited to use upon low-growing crops; and, more- 
over, it will obviously serve to distribute the pow- 
der only upon the upper surfaces of the foliage, 
while many insects, and especially the eggs by 
which they multiply, may be found snugly har- 
boured on the under side. To meet this deficiency 
(when the case is one requiring it), use is made of 
a bellows of peculiar construction, supplied with 
a convenient receptacle for the powder to be dis- 

[252] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

tributed, from which it escapes gradually into the 
nozzle of the bellows when operated. It is made 
in various patterns and sizes, all operating in sub- 
stantially the same way. There are other imple- 
ments that can be used, but they are of inferior 
efficiency, and have nothing to recommend them 
except in being sold at a lower price. The best, 
in this as in many other things, will be found the 
cheapest. 

Changing the crop affords a partial preventive 
against the inroads of insects, providing that the 
change is to an entirely different family of plants; 
for it is well known that the continued cultivation 
in one locality of any particular crop has a ten- 
dency to assemble there all its peculiar enemies, 
and favours their rapid multiplication. 

No absolutely complete preventives are known; 
and cultivators must recognize the necessity of 
constant exertion, and unremitting use of the best- 
known and most efficient of those now in use. Due 
inquiry and fuller knowledge of facts might help to 
accomplish much toward limiting, if not wholly 
exterminating, each and every kind of pestiferous 
insect. Neighbours should combine, both for 
observation and action; first to devise, and then 

[253] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

unitedly to pursue, such measures as promise sub- 
stantial relief. For instance, take the case of the 
pea weevil. If all the farmers of the country should 
unitedly forbear to raise peas for a single year it 
would die off completely. Perhaps a means of relief 
less radical and more practicable of execution may 
yet be discovered; but none is now known to exist. 

Sterilization of the Soil. This is done by 
heating the soil to a temperature of 200 degrees 
or more, and the effect is very pronounced, 
especially in the working of the soil and the 
growing of the crop. 

It has been found necessary to resort to steriliza- 
tion to prevent what is known as the *'drop" or 
*'wilt" in lettuce. 

The best method I have found is to lay pipes on 
the ground and cover them over with soil to the 
depth of at least one foot. These pipes are two 
inches in size, and perforated every few inches to 
about three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. 
They should be ten feet long, and are placed on the 
ground about one foot apart. The header or cross 
pipe at the end through which the steam enters 
is a three-inch pipe and has five or six arms, one 
foot apart, extending out a few inches to allow 

[254] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

the two-inch pipes to be set inside. Collars are 
then used to put over the adjoining ends of other 
lengths of pipe to extend the sterilizing bed. 
Three lengths of ten-foot pipe, or thirty feet, is 
sufficient length before another header or cross- 
piece for steam connection is placed. 

Then continue the same as before till you have 
altogether sixty running feet of bed with three 
steam connections, one at each end, and one in the 
middle. 

The soil from each side of the bed is then shov- 
elled onto these pipes to a depth of from twelve 
to fifteen inches, twelve-inch boards having been 
previously staked up to hold the dirt in. Then 
turn on the steam, and let it stay on until all of 
the soil has attained a temperature of 200 degrees. 
Then shut it off, but leave the soil undisturbed for 
some time, say three or four hours. You will find 
that it becomes very soft and can be very easily 
worked. 

It is well to have extra pipes and headers so that 
while the first section is being sterilized you can 
be laying another section of sixty feet and have 
it already for the steam, and so on. 

Since I took up this method a few years ago 
[255] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

a great number of market gardeners have tried 
it with almost universal success, and I have no 
doubt that it is one of the most beneficial treatments 
that lettuce growers employ. 

Some sceptics have claimed that the high tem- 
perature to which the soil is subjected destroys the 
bacteria in the soil, which are so beneficial to the 
process of changing the nitrogen compounds to 
nitrites and thence to nitrates, which are the avail- 
able forms of plant food. 

This may be true if commercial fertilizers are 
used; but if stable manure is used this argument 
has no weight, as there are enough bacteria in the 
manure to render all the nitrogen available that is 
necessary. 

Fumigation, How Conducted. Fumigation 
for the suppression of the aphis or green fly (some- 
times called green louse) on lettuce has been 
already recommended in our cultural directions 
for growing that plant. We employ moistened 
tobacco stems in this case. Tobacco in any form 
is repulsive to the aphis, which is often driven away 
from lettuce by strewing the stems on the soil about 
the plants. As a liquid application, a decoction 
of hot water and tobacco stemsdilutedto the colour 

[ 256 ] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

of weak tea may be used with good results. For 
the destruction of the black louse, an insect apt 
to infest the cucumbers in forcing-houses, the 
removal of the first affected leaves is generally 
practised. Tobacco fumigation seems ineffectual 
in the case of this insect. 

The method of fumigation is, of course, not 
applicable to out-door cultivation ; but is extensively 
employed, and forms an eflScient means of pre- 
vention and relief, in all hot-houses. Vapour of 
sulphur is regarded as a good means of controlling 
powdery mildews. 

Fumigators offered in the market are made of 
strong galvanized sheet iron, 20, 24, or 28 inches 
high, of diameters 13, 14, and 16 inches; the 
larger size containing one bushel, the others three- 
fourths and one-half respectively. Each is sup- 
plied with a firing-door and a perforaled cover, 
and with convenient handles for lifting and trans- 
porting. 

In a house such as shown in photogravure facing, 
which is 33 feet span, 15 feet high at the ridge, 
and nearly 400 feet in length, containing about 
130,000 cubic feet of interior space, I employ 
four of the largest-sized ones. These require to 

[257] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

be operated only an hour, or perhaps a little more, 
to fumigate the entire building effectively. Such 
a fumigation having been repeated three nights 
in succession, is then intermitted till another time 
arrives when it seems to be needed, or might be 
prudently employed as a preventive. 

Vapour of sulphur may be obtained by use of a 
kettle or basin containing sulphur (brimstone) 
heated nearly to the boiling point, and kept at 
that heat as long as the process is desired to con- 
tinue. A small kerosene stove and an iron kettle 
form a convenient and manageable equipment. 
Vapour enough should be generated to visibly fill 
the house or apartment, and give off a noticeable 
odour. But the sulphur must be carefully watched 
to prevent its taking fire, in which event fumes 
would arise destructive to all plant life, and might 
do extensive mischief. 

Probably the two worst insects we have to com- 
bat are the red spider and the white fly. They 
both can be killed by use of cyanide gas. 

An ounce of cyanide used with two ounces of 
sulphuric acid and four ounces of water to 2,000 
cubic feet will kill the white fly and not injure 
some crops. Buf great care must be used, as the 

[ 258 ] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

gas is very deadly. It is better, perhaps, to use 
the above proportion to 4,000 cubic feet to start 
with, with an exposure of six minutes, and if not 
successful try it stronger next time. I have used 
the above formula successfully on a tomato-house 
(one ounce to 4,000 cubic feet) and kept the 
house closed all night without injuring the most 
tender growth. 

But for red spider there is no method of killing 
the spider and saving the crop. The best way is 
to check him all you can. Moisture is a check 
to breeding, but it is not practicable to spray cucum- 
ber vines too much. I have found the best way to 
be to cyanide after the crop is through bearing, 
using a proportion of one ounce to 200 cubic feet, 
and keeping the house closed all night. This 
should be repeated in seven days to kill the little 
ones that have hatched out. And further, keep 
your houses clean. Keep them painted every 
year, and don't grow cucumbers in the fall, for if you 
do you are bound to have spiders in the spring. 

Fungi and Plant Diseases. — Preven- 
tives. Disease in plants manifests itself in 
various forms, amongst which w^e recognize two 
distinct classes; one due to the presence of animal 

[259] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

parasites, insects and their larvse, such as above 
described; while the other includes smut, mildew, 
blight, rust and all similar, fungous or vegetable, 
parasite growths, which we group under the 
general name of Fungi. 

It is often not clearly evident to which of these 
two classes, or whether, indeed, to either of them, 
the trouble really belongs. Some believe it is an 
insect which causes the ''blight" in celery; but I 
do not agree with that view. I know an insect 
does appear on the leaves when they begin to 
decay; but on almost every different kind of decay- 
ing vegetation some one insect peculiar to it is apt 
to appear, corresponding to saprophytes among 
fungi — being invited by the decay, but not the 
occasion of it. 

And often, when the insects have made their 
appearance and the leaves are already yellow, if 
there is a sufficient application of water, either by 
the occurrence of a heavy rain or artificially sup- 
plied by irrigation, the insects will disappear, the 
yellow leaves will drop away and the plants will 
grow healthy again, with a good crop as the result. 
The renewed vitality of the plant enables it to cast 
off the morbid condition, however originating. 

[ 260 ] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

This view points us to the main remedy or pre- 
ventive of all disease — and more particularly the 
chief preventive against every form of vegetable 
parasite: clean and nourishing culture. In the 
outset this is the means, and the only means, to be 
relied upon. This is the first requirement; of 
course, there are others. Hurtful conditions may 
be noted and avoided. It may reasonably enough 
be assumed that plants are liable to forms of dis- 
ease attributable neither to vegetable nor animal 
parasites, but arising much like disorders in 
animals, as from imperfect nourishment, exces- 
sive cold or heat, lack or superabundance of 
moisture and the like unhealthy conditions. Mis- 
management of heat, or moisture, on a forced crop 
frequently entails a blight; or promotes mildew, as 
elsewhere described in treating of the culture of 
lettuce. A succession of dark days, depriving the 
plant of sunshine, exerts a similar influence; unless 
relieved by aid of the electric light, now beginning 
to be used. 

So, too, some harmful element may exist in the 
soil or fertilizer, causing the plants to languish; 
and thus again the spores of fungi may be enabled 
to fasten upon them. It is good policy, alike as 

[261] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

against the fungous and all other disorders, and 
on general grounds as well, to put all the vigour 
we can into the growing plants. We should also 
bear in mind the great importance of prompt 
and eflBcient action wherever disease is apparent; 
as it will surely and rapidly extend itself, unless 
controlled. 

Owing, perhaps, to the fact that the varieties 
and habits of insects have been more obvious ob- 
jects of study, there has been collected, thus far, 
comparatively little scientific knowledge concern- 
ing fungous diseases of plants, and their appro- 
priate remedies; but vegetable-growers have, from 
practical experience, acquired much valuable infor- 
mation (though leaving much yet to be learned) 
and have been led to devise and apply remedies, 
some of which are very successful. 

Fungi that live upon dead and decaying sub- 
stances, such as toadstools, black and blue moulds, 
and the like, are of little interest to the cultivator; 
but there is another class, of entirely different habit, 
that attacks living plants, pushing its own rootlets 
into the growing leaf or stem or root, and taking its 
sustenance from the juices so obtained. Plants 
grown in forcing-houses are especially subject to 

[ 262 ] 



INSECTS AND PREVENTIVES 

these attacks. Among these fungi are the downy 
mildews, like those on spinach and lettuce, and 
the powdery mildews, such as attack cucumbers. 

They multiply through the agency of spores, as 
plants by seeds. Some of these spores develop 
with great activity in a summer temperature, 
natural or artificial, when other conditions are 
favourable, but are readily destroyed when exposed 
to severe cold, long-continued drought, etc., or to 
certain artificially created conditions. Others, 
however (called resting spores), more sluggish in 
habit but of more endurance, are found to remain 
unaffected, preserving the species; so that their 
complete extinction in any locality is not to be 
expected, in the present state of our knowledge. 

As a rule, when a vegetable parasite fastens 
upon a plant, it is next to impossible to kill the 
parasite without destroying the plant by the same 
operation. It is obvious, therefore, that no treat- 
ment can be judicious which is not mainly pre- 
ventive. 

Healthful condition is, as already urged, an 
important means of prevention. Another, which 
has been often recommended, but far too little 
attended to, consists in the removal and destruc- 

[263] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

tion of all leaves, twigs and dead growths which 
may contain the spores. 

The various liquid preparations for spraying 
and so protecting the foliage and succulent stems, 
by way of which the spores are apt to gain footing 
on growing plants, generally operate by coating 
the surfaces with a thin film of some substance 
in which the spores cannot germinate, while yet 
it is harmless to the plant. The spraying should 
be repeated, at intervals of ten or fifteen days at 
most, at such time and as long as any danger of 
an attack is to be apprehended. This time varies 
with the different habits of different fungi; further 
knowledge than we now possess on that point will 
doubtless be gathered as time goes on. 

INCONCLUSION 

I AM very sure that much in the preceding 
pages will be directly helpful in the way of prac- 
tical guidance to any one engaged, or about to 
engage, in the business of vegetable-growing. 
Indirectly, also, the cultivator or student will 
be benefited, if, by their perusal, he is stimulated 
to a livelier sense of the variety and importance 

[ 264 ] 



IN CONCLUSION 

of the multiplied details belonging to his chosen 
avocation. 

Wherever there has not been opportunity for 
the full discussion of any subject, in adequate pro- 
portion to its prominence and practical impor- 
tance, I have endeavoured to make such sugges- 
tions as will lead the thoughtful reader to inquire 
further and learn more. 

The rules herein laid down are, in compact 
form, the net results of extended practical experi- 
ence. They are no haphazard inventions, of doubt- 
ful utility, as are too many of the instructions and 
cultural directions which, from time to time, obtain 
more or less currency amongst horticulturists. 

Learners, in conducting experimental work of 
their own, or in considering results as reported 
by others, should beware of hasty conclusions. 
There are always manifold obscure conditions 
affecting largely, perhaps controlling, the out- 
come of crop experiments. Of these conditions, 
the very ones least recognized and understood 
may have far more to do with results than those 
they have been most intent on observing. 

Results of vegetable-culture will always be 
largely affected by climatic conditions; and these, 

[265] 



SUCCESS IN MARKET GARDENING 

of course, are variable from season to season. 
Crops will sometimes fail utterly — and again 
sometimes succeed astonishingly — for no visible 
reason in either case. Manure effects, especially 
on soils naturally poor, are apt to be very diflficult 
of prediction or subsequent analysis: the only 
safe general maxim being the common-sense rule, 
to feed the plants abundantly and let them find 
and take what they require. 

The conditions of greenhouse and hot-bed 
culture are more definitely known, and can be more 
exactly fulfilled, than those of open culture, for 
obvious reasons. It is in these forms of vege- 
table-growing that the largest recent advances 
have been made, and in which the most impor- 
tant future improvements seem likely to be 
developed. 

As regards choice and rare winter-products of 
forcing-houses, the market demand, though 
steadily increasing, is but small as yet. Those 
who have access to the larger markets are, of 
course, comparatively far better enabled to make 
suitable disposal of such products. Others will 
be limited, for the present, to producing the more 
common kinds, such as lettuce, dandelion and 

[266] 



IN CONCLUSION 

parsley, for which a more general demand exists. 
The rarer sorts, such as asparagus, cucumbers, 
cauliflowers and tomatoes, being still regarded as 
special luxuries, can be freely disposed of only in 
the large cities. 

That the cultural directions foregoing and 
other matter presented leave much to be learned, 
and are, taken by themselves, only partially ade- 
quate to the guidance of the unskilled cultivator, 
is only what must be true of any similar manual. 
It would be hard to name a subject open to wider 
research and capable of greater advances than is 
that of plant-growing, even when limited to its 
most practical aspect. 

Success in Market Gardening demands 
intelligence, diligence and natural aptitude. Per- 
sonal diligence and natural aptitude are matters 
outside the scope of any manual; but an intelli- 
gent cultivation of the various crops under all the 
varying conditions of the business can, of course, 
be promoted greatly by referring to the experi- 
ence acquired by those who have succeeded in it. 

THE END 

[267] 



INDEX 



Anise, 160. 
Aphis, 256. 
Applying manure, 64. 

moisture, 21. 
Artichoke, 96. 

Jerusalem, 97. 
Asparagus, 97. 

cutting, 99. 

Balm, 161. 
Basil, sweet, 161. 
Beans, dwarf, 100. 

pole, 106. 

running, 106. 

varieties to grow, 103. 
Beet, 109. 
Borecole, 112. 
Broccoli, 114. 
Brussels sprouts, 116. 

Cabbage, 117. 

carrier, 238. 
Cabbages, watering, 33. 
Cantaloupe, 177. 
Capital required, 92. 
Caraway, 161. 
Carrot, 125. 
Cauliflower, 127. 

watering, 33. 
Celeriac, 131. 
Celery, 132. 

storing, for winter, 139. 



Celery, turnip-rooted, 131. 

watering, 34. 
Chicory, 142. 
Chives, 143. 

Commercial fertilizers, 53. 
Compost, 58. 
Corn, field, 145. 

salad, 149. 

sweet, 146. 
Cress, 149. 
Crops, cultivation of, 80. 

gathering, 91. 

in hotbed, succession of, 87. 

planning for, 43. 

rotation of, 44. 
Cucumber, 150. 
Cultivation of crops, 80. 
Cultivator, 228. 
Cutting asparagus, 99. 
Cyanide gas, 258. 
Cynara, 96. 

DandeUon, 156. 
Diseases in plants, 259. 
Drainage, 10. 
Drains, depth of, 14. 
Drill, 233. 

Egg plant, 158. 
Electro-culture, 240. 
Endive, 159. 



[269 ] 



INDEX 



Fallowing, 45. 
Fertilizers, 48. 

commercial, 53. 
Field marker, 237. 
Flea-beetle, 247. 
Fork, 231. 
Fumigation, 256. 

Garden tools, 222. 
Gardening in hot-houses, 88. 
Gathering crops, 91. 
Germinating power of seed, 72. 
Green-fly, 256. 
Greenhouse heating, 238. 
Growing seed, 74. 

Hand hoe, 231. 
Harrow, 226. 
Harrowing, 36, 38. 
Heating a greenhouse, 238. 

hot-bed, 83. 

hot-house, 90. 
Herbs, 160. 
Horseradish, 163. 
Hose, rubber, 27. 
Hot-bed, heating, 83. 

making a, 82. 

succession of crops in, 87. 
Hot-house, gardening in, 88. 

heating a, 90. 
Hydrocyanic acid gas, 258. 

Implements, agricultural, 221. 
Impoverished soils, 19. 
Insects and preventions, 247. 
Irrigating pumps, 23. 
Irrigation, 19. 

Kale, 112. 

Kerosene emulsion, 248. 

Kohl rabi, 165. 



Labour, cost of, 94. 
Lavender, 161. 
Leek, 166. 
Lettuce, 167. 

in hot-beds, 170. 

wilt, 254. 
Liquid manure, 60. 
Loam, 59. 
Location, 6. 

Making a hot-bed, 82. 
Manure, 49. 

applying, 64. 

liquid, 60. 

spreader, 223. 

spreading, 51. 
Manures, 48. 
Manuring for beans, 101. 
Marjoram, sweet, 162. 
Martynia, 174. 
Moisture, applying, 21. 
Mushrooms, 174. 
Muskmelon, 175. 
Mustard, 178. 

Okra, 179. 
Onion, 181. 

fly, 249. 
Onions on same ground, 46. 

Paris green, 250. 
Parsley, 184. 
Parsnips, 185. 
Peas, 186. 
Peppers, 190. 
Piping, 30. 

Planning for crops, 43 
Plant diseases, 259. 
Ploughing, 36, 38, 40. 
Plough, 223. 

[270] 



INDEX 



Pole beans, 106. 
Potato, 192. 
bug, 250. 
Preparation of soil, 36. 
Pulverization, process of, 18, 42. 
Pumping outfit, 243. 
Pumps for irrigating, 23. 

Radishes, 86, 196. 
Raking, 36. 
Red spider, 258, 259. 
Rhubarb, 198. 
Roller, 227. 
Rosemary, 162. 
Rotation of crops, 44. 
Rubber hose, 27. 
Running beans, 106. 

Sage, common, 162. 

Salsify, 200. 

Sea kale, 200. 

Seed, germinating power of a, 72. 

growing, 74. 

selecting, 69. 

sower, 233. 

sowing, 77. 

vitaUty of, 71, 73. 
Selecting seed, 69. 
Shovel, 231. 
Slide hoe, 232. 
Soil, 7. 

impoverished, 19. 

preparation of, 36. 

pulverizing, 42. 

sterihzation, 254. 
Sowing seed, 77. 
Spade, 231. 



Spinach, 201. 
Spreader, manure, 223. 
Spreading manure, 51. 
Squash, 203. 

bug, 250. 
SteriHzing the soil, 254. 
Subsoiling, 36, 39. 

Succession of crops in hot-bed, 87. 
Sulphur vapour, 258. 
Summer savoury, 163. 
Swiss chard. 111. 

Tansy, 163. 
Thyme, 163. 
Tobacco, 256. 
Tomato, 206. 
worm, 250. 
Turnips, 212. 

Upland cress, 150. 

Varieties of beans, 103. 

beets, 110. 
Vitahty of seed, 71, 73. 

Watering cabbages, 33. 

cauUflower, 33. 

celery, 34. 
Watermelon, 214. 
Wheel hoe, 232. 
White fly, 258. 

grub, 250. 
Wilt in lettuce, 254. 
Wire-worms, 250. 
Wood ashes, 57. 

Yam, Chinese, 216. 



[271 ] 



m^ u ibi:C 



